R1150RT issue...

[AlanRT]

Hi. I have an '01 1150RT. While motorway riding last week I lost power. I made it home with the bike misfiring & wouldn't run under 2k rpm. I checked the coil and wasn't getting the resistance I should so got a new one and still no difference! Should my next step be hall sensor? I'm not getting a bouncing tacho needle which seems to be the norm when they go. Anyone any ideas?

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

get new spark plug coils

 

[AlanRT]

Do you mean HT leads? Mine is single spark with the coil located under the tank.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

This is a difficult one because your bike runs above 2k rpm. Doesn't sound like it would be the hall sensor, that would likely effect the entire rpm range

Head scratching. To suddenly loose power like that makes me think it could be something serious like loss of compression.

Checking the easy things first like plugs and HT leads, together with the fuel injector spray pattern are easy enough to do and would be my first items to check, just out of routine and to rule them out conclusively. I doubt you will find anything wrong, with any of them, but it all adds to piece of mind and helps you go forward.

A compression check would probably be next.

Forget the previous post about replacing stick coils, your bike doesn't have them, and besides they would not cause your symptoms

To be honest I'm a bit stuck, and hoping that some of the more knowledgeable will be along in a minute to guide you.

Ian

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Clutching at straws again.

Do both the throttle bodies open equally when you twist the throttle cable. And when released they fully close to the throttle stops. No fowling or frayed/broken cables

Ian

 

[Steptoe]

Hi. I have an '01 1150RT. While motorway riding last week I lost power. I made it home with the bike misfiring & wouldn't run under 2k rpm. I checked the coil and wasn't getting the resistance I should so got a new one and still no difference! Should my next step be hall sensor? I'm not getting a bouncing tacho needle which seems to be the norm when they go. Anyone any ideas?

I bet you have a burnt exhaust valve ... Do a compression check.

 

[AlanRT]

Thanks for your advice Ian. I tried the plugs too. I replaced all the cables last year so they should be ok. You might've hit the nail on the head with the compression.
Steptoe. I'll collect a compression gauge tomorrow and check that! I've a feeling that could be my problem. Is it a big job to fix?

 

[harry]

That sounds to me as if your Throttle Position Sensor is on the blink

 

[GORILA]

I had similar problems with my 1100gs. I similarly suspected a burned valve or some electronic component. In the end however the problem was much simpler. I found that the injector cables were damp! Pulling back the boot of the wire, which attaches to the injector, I found it was very damp. A quick wipe and spray of ACT50 got the bike running ok. Might be worth checking before you start pulling the bike apear like I did.

 

[AlanRT]

Thanks for the replys guys. Just done a compression test & I have 135psi on the left and a big fat 0 on the right! Think my worst fears are confirmed!

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks for the replys guys. Just done a compression test & I have 135psi on the left and a big fat 0 on the right! Think my worst fears are confirmed!

Not so bad a job, pretty straightforward...... as long as your three exhaust studs (RT has three, GS only has two) don't snap off, and as it's an RT you have to undo both sides exhaust studs to remove the down pipes..

In fact i'm doing an exhaust valve on an RT at the moment. All six studs had to be drilled out. I've used inserts and new studs made out of decent metal so it should never happen again.
Funny enough it's an Irish registered RT, the owner was getting ripped off by an Irish garage (new starter motor, battery, plugs and HT leads etc etc) as they tried to find the problem.
He put the bike in a van and brought it to me , i diagnosed the problem while he waited

Just been outside and taken a phone pic of the number plate

 

[AlanRT]

Mine is a 01 too but it was a UK bike one time. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go near the left side exhaust. The studs are in bad order. 2 snapped on me already on the right side. No way to get them off otherwise?

 

[AlanRT]

Any tips on getting the header pipes off? I have the 6 nuts & muffler removed & tried a blowtorch, pry bar, oil and lots of swearing and no budging it! On the verge of setting fire to it now!

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Have you tried capping the open ends of the exhaust with something, then cranking the engine to see if the air pressure from the Pistons turning will be enough to crack the seal between exhaust and cylinder head.

 

[ianboydsnr]

Block of wood with a round end to fit around the pipe and lots of tapping with a large hammer.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Not so bad a job, pretty straightforward...... as long as your three exhaust studs (RT has three, GS only has two) don't snap off, and as it's an RT you have to undo both sides exhaust studs to remove the down pipes..

In fact i'm doing an exhaust valve on an RT at the moment. All six studs had to be drilled out. I've used inserts and new studs made out of decent metal so it should never happen again.
Funny enough it's an Irish registered RT, the owner was getting ripped off by an Irish garage (new starter motor, battery, plugs and HT leads etc etc) as they tried to find the problem.
He put the bike in a van and brought it to me , i diagnosed the problem while he waited

Just been outside and taken a phone pic of the number plate

Dude, if i have a major problem I'll do the same. Our local independent is as if not more expensive than the dealers.

 

[flatdog]

Have you tried capping the open ends of the exhaust with something, then cranking the engine to see if the air pressure from the Pistons turning will be enough to crack the seal between exhaust and cylinder head.

No compression on one side so thats where the air pressure will go.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

No compression on one side so thats where the air pressure will go.

Really! Just because you don't have air compression in the cylinder head for ignition does not mean that air is not flowing through the engine. Of course I'm assuming that the piston rings are OK and the inlet valves are OK. If the OP caps off the exhaust, then during rotation of the engine, it will suck air from the inlet and try to force the air out through the exhaust. The air pressure could be enough to unseat the exhaust headers.

 

[flatdog]

Really! Just because you don't have air compression in the cylinder head for ignition does not mean that air is not flowing through the engine. Of course I'm assuming that the piston rings are OK and the inlet valves are OK. If the OP caps off the exhaust, then during rotation of the engine, it will suck air from the inlet and try to force the air out through the exhaust. The air pressure could be enough to unseat the exhaust headers.

If the reading is zero then in my mind there can be no compression coming from that side, therefore when you block the exhaust the other side's compression will escape through the route of least resistance which would be through the rings and crankcase, irrespective of the ring condition.

Whether the reduced escaping compression overcomes the seized-on exhaust is an unknown?.
= Not very effective. Thats my opinion.

 

[AlanRT]

Exhaust headers had to be cut with a grinder to get the head off! That was the last straw for me! As soon as it's running again it's getting the Highland fling!