R1250GS Clutch Failure

cookrwc

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Good afternoon,

I bought my 1250 last August, but because of away from home work commitments, I put less than 200 miles on the clock last year, then Coronavirus kicked in so this year's been a bust for riding. Given the recent relaxing on travel, I took the bike out for a first ride this year on Saturday. I got about 16 miles before the clutch failed. I won't bore you with the recovery nightmare - suffice to say the bike is now at Lovett's in Bristol.

The technician determoined that the cause of the clutch failure was the VTrec Vario, R1250GS specific, clutch lever (one of a levers pair) that I had fitted, so can't be done under warranty. They said "the lever didn’t fully retract when released and so stayed partially engaged causing excessive wear. They intially said I needed a new clutch (£600+) and an oil change (£100+). They came back today saying that the damage was not as extensive as they first thought - 70% clutch plate wear, a saving of £100 on the bill.

I have fitted these levers to all my bikes, including my last watercooled GS. Has anyone ever come across some such before?

Thanks.

Ron
 
I got the levers from Motea in Germany. I sent therm the technician's video yesterday morning and asked them what their policy is on this, but I haven't heard back yet.

Oh, and I forgot to say, they also said both front brake calliper's were leaking and needed to be replaced - £1000+, but at least that's on warranty.
 
Fitting of non standard parts can invalidate your warranty
If the levers won’t retract fully, then of course clutch wear can occur
Clutch is a wearing part too
 
Good afternoon,

I bought my 1250 last August, but because of away from home work commitments, I put less than 200 miles on the clock last year, then Coronavirus kicked in so this year's been a bust for riding. Given the recent relaxing on travel, I took the bike out for a first ride this year on Saturday. I got about 16 miles before the clutch failed. I won't bore you with the recovery nightmare - suffice to say the bike is now at Lovett's in Bristol.

The technician determoined that the cause of the clutch failure was the VTrec Vario, R1250GS specific, clutch lever (one of a levers pair) that I had fitted, so can't be done under warranty. They said "the lever didn’t fully retract when released and so stayed partially engaged causing excessive wear. They intially said I needed a new clutch (£600+) and an oil change (£100+). They came back today saying that the damage was not as extensive as they first thought - 70% clutch plate wear, a saving of £100 on the bill.

I have fitted these levers to all my bikes, including my last watercooled GS. Has anyone ever come across some such before?

Thanks.

Ron
If, you have legal cover/advice through work/home insurance use them, you're paying for it.

Get all the contact details of the supplier of the clutch lever first, then advise them that you will be to recover all costs, and that they should liaise with the dealer to pay bill, failing that small claims court.

Tell the dealer that you will be making a claim against the supplier of the levers, that they are required to put all their statements in writing, advising them that you will be calling them as witnesses, and it maybe prudent to video any dismantling.

To wear a clutch out in 200 miles, takes a "lot" of abuse.

Be polite, no matter how stupid people are, and remember end goal, money back in your pocket.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 
The lever isn’t the problem per se it’s the pushrod adjustment that can cause a problem. Seen it happen on various forums with worse case being locked on brakes. If the pushrod doesn’t allow the piston to return far enough then fluid cannot fully return and so pressure builds holding the clutch or brake partially on. When fitting you have to check that there is free play at the pushrod when retracted so it has no pressure on the piston at all.
 
Thank you. I have kept Lovett's in the loop with my communications to Motea, which include's the tech's examination video and Lovett's statement as to the causal problem. Just waiting for Motea to respond. I'll give them till the end of the week before chasing them.
 
To do a clutch in 216 miles you'd have to be bouncing it off the rev limiter with both brakes on.
 
It was a short A road / dual carriageway run and I didn't use the clutch much till I was the other side of the dual carriageway - it must have been quite far gone by then as the clutch would barely bite and on a couple of occassions (before I gave up the ghost) I let the clutch fully out with no traction.
 
If, you have legal cover/advice through work/home insurance use them, you're paying for it.

Get all the contact details of the supplier of the clutch lever first, then advise them that you will be to recover all costs, and that they should liaise with the dealer to pay bill, failing that small claims court.

Tell the dealer that you will be making a claim against the supplier of the levers, that they are required to put all their statements in writing, advising them that you will be calling them as witnesses, and it maybe prudent to video any dismantling.

To wear a clutch out in 200 miles, takes a "lot" of abuse.

Be polite, no matter how stupid people are, and remember end goal, money back in your pocket.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Before you get on your legal high horse, it depends who fitted the levers

The OP

The BMW Dealer

Motea dealer in UK

A.N. Other

Read this....

The lever isn’t the problem per se it’s the pushrod adjustment that can cause a problem.

Seen it happen on various forums with worse case being locked on brakes.

If the pushrod doesn’t allow the piston to return far enough then fluid cannot fully return and so pressure builds holding the clutch or brake partially on.

When fitting you have to check that there is free play at the pushrod when retracted so it has no pressure on the piston at all.

I would expect they have been fitted incorrectly
 
It was a short A road / dual carriageway run and I didn't use the clutch much till I was the other side of the dual carriageway - it must have been quite far gone by then as the clutch would barely bite and on a couple of occassions (before I gave up the ghost) I let the clutch fully out with no traction.

QS fitted too??
 
To do a clutch in 216 miles you'd have to be bouncing it off the rev limiter with both brakes on.

In normal wear yes but once the clutch slips it gets very hot and once the friction material exceeds normal operating temps it can destroy itself pretty quickly. I had a company car that got stuck in 3rd ( gear linkage came off) about 40 miles from base. Just the slipping from 10 or so junction pull aways to get home damaged the Friction plate to the point of replacement.. The mechanic showed me the clutch and it had got hot and shredded most of the friction material.
 
It was a short A road / dual carriageway run and I didn't use the clutch much till I was the other side of the dual carriageway - it must have been quite far gone by then as the clutch would barely bite and on a couple of occassions (before I gave up the ghost) I let the clutch fully out with no traction.

That sounds like it needs some slack adjusting in. How many miles on the bike?
 


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