R1250GS Clutch Failure

One thing that just occurred to me is that to remove the clutch rod from the lever you have to completely unwind the rod from its mounting barrel, remove the barrel and reverse the process. Hence why it’s easy to not refit it correctly.

So if the dealer has no idea how to adjust the pushrod, and there is no service info from bmw, how will he correctly fit it to your original levers ?
I seem to recall an occasion on my bikes when the pushrod didn’t quite fully seat into the brake master cylinder piston, thus effectively applying more pressure. Took me a while to realise why I couldn’t wheel the bike out of the garage.
 
i was going to write a detailed argument for and against the op's case, but thought fuck it

for what it's worth, my moneys on the bike has been standing over winter, and the clutch plates were stuck / gummed together

the op took the bike out gave it the beans, and the clutch couldn't cope.

given we dont know the OP's mileage, service history & riding style...:nenau Fitting the levers effectively voided the warranty

and sadly the clutch is a consumable item. it has been consumed.

I'd say the best the op can hope for, is a goodwill gesture. plastering it over social media wont do his cause any help though

Not that it matters to the op but stuck plates causes the opposite of his problem. Clutch is permanently engaged, so will stall going into gear, at junctions etc but be fine while riding. His problem was slip that got progressively worse while riding, as in excessive disengagement. Having had stuck plates, the only way to ride off was to engage 1st whilst rolling. It was very obvious there was a problem before moving.
 
For the benefit of anyone else fitting levers or adjusting, I thought I would show the pushrod. As the picture shows it has significant adjustment through the barrel. More than enough to compromise the clutch or brake action so attention needs to be made of it's approx position (and check free play on lever after fitting). You can also see that to switch it between levers requires that the pushrod is removed from the barrel and re inserted into the new lever which is potentially where it can go wrong. There is a 2mm grub screw locking the rod in place and if that is not tight the rod can spin with vibration also. You can't see it in the pic but the top of the rod will accept a 4mm key to adjust it with.

07_Clutch_Lever_Adjust_33_copy.jpg
 
For the benefit of anyone else fitting levers or adjusting, I thought I would show the pushrod. As the picture shows it has significant adjustment through the barrel. More than enough to compromise the clutch or brake action so attention needs to be made of it's approx position (and check free play on lever after fitting). You can also see that to switch it between levers requires that the pushrod is removed from the barrel and re inserted into the new lever which is potentially where it can go wrong. There is a 2mm grub screw locking the rod in place and if that is not tight the rod can spin with vibration also. You can't see it in the pic but the top of the rod will accept a 4mm key to adjust it with.

07_Clutch_Lever_Adjust_33_copy.jpg

Isnt that a similar set up to the hexhead?

i did wonder when i fitted my aftermarket doglegged levers, to the hexhead that they may be residual pressure on the actuator, so i made sure mine were only on the mid

setting, which worked for me


Ive just checked my other bike, i have roughly 10mm at lever end freeplay before ii feel pressure on the lever
 
Isnt that a similar set up to the hexhead?

i did wonder when i fitted my aftermarket doglegged levers, to the hexhead that they may be residual pressure on the actuator, so i made sure mine were only on the mid

setting, which worked for me


Ive just checked my other bike, i have roughly 10mm at lever end freeplay before ii feel pressure on the lever

Not familiar with the levers on the hexhead but quite possibly yes. 10mm free play is spot on. 👍
 
Not familiar with the levers on the hexhead but quite possibly yes. 10mm free play is spot on. ��

Yes wheni did the hexhead, the RH is just out and a new one in

The LH you have to pull the pin(ball)rod out of the master cylinder (leap of faith) fit it to the new lever and then push the whole lot back into place

for some reason you cant just swap it over like the rh side
 
Just to wrap up on this for a bit, I rode the bike back from Lovett's yesterday - all fine. Still waiting to hear back from Motea - you at least have to ask the question and give them the opportunity to succeed.

I just found out that one of my acquaintances knows a chap who was head technician for a main Motorrad dealership - now runs his own shop. I'm going to let him take a look at the VTrecs to see if he can settle the issue of install - what's life for if it's not for learning.

For whomsoever it was mentioned it is their post, the mileage was less then 200, riding style = relaxed (I'm 70 :-). The bike was laid up for the winter up on one of Motea's evo bike stands, and my son in law ran the engine up in the garage for 5 minutes every 2 to 4 weeks whilst I was a way working - yes, still working at 70, but only because I can.

I will post the Motea response when it arrives and let you know what the sech said about the VTrecs.

Stay well and ride safe.
 
Just to wrap up on this for a bit, I rode the bike back from Lovett's yesterday - all fine. Still waiting to hear back from Motea - you at least have to ask the question and give them the opportunity to succeed.

I just found out that one of my acquaintances knows a chap who was head technician for a main Motorrad dealership - now runs his own shop. I'm going to let him take a look at the VTrecs to see if he can settle the issue of install - what's life for if it's not for learning.

For whomsoever it was mentioned it is their post, the mileage was less then 200, riding style = relaxed (I'm 70 :-).

The bike was laid up for the winter up on one of Motea's evo bike stands, and my son in law ran the engine up in the garage for 5 minutes every 2 to 4 weeks whilst I was a way working - yes, still working at 70, but only because I can.

I will post the Motea response when it arrives and let you know what the sech said about the VTrecs.

Stay well and ride safe.

That's another really bad idea, to run it in a garage for 5 mins, every couple of weeks in winter

Condensation builds up as the engine never gets fully warm and hot

Just park it up over winter and leave it be, battery tender ever now and again to cycle the battery

That's what I do with my GS, parked up in Oct 2019 and just on a tender, for 48 hours every 3-4 weeks

Went to use it at weekend, last after an 8 month's of no usage - check tyres and added air

Started first push of the button and rode off and rode perfect for 100 miles
 
Just to wrap up on this for a bit, I rode the bike back from Lovett's yesterday - all fine. Still waiting to hear back from Motea - you at least have to ask the question and give them the opportunity to succeed.

I just found out that one of my acquaintances knows a chap who was head technician for a main Motorrad dealership - now runs his own shop. I'm going to let him take a look at the VTrecs to see if he can settle the issue of install - what's life for if it's not for learning.

For whomsoever it was mentioned it is their post, the mileage was less then 200, riding style = relaxed (I'm 70 :-). The bike was laid up for the winter up on one of Motea's evo bike stands, and my son in law ran the engine up in the garage for 5 minutes every 2 to 4 weeks whilst I was a way working - yes, still working at 70, but only because I can.

I will post the Motea response when it arrives and let you know what the sech said about the VTrecs.

Stay well and ride safe.

Hard to see how Motea can draw any conclusions unless a defect is spotted with the levers themselves. Without seeing them in situ as of the time of the fault or a report from someone who did they have no way of knowing possible cause.

I think the dealer was your best bet for giving you some ammo. Nothing ventured though as they say.
 
You have to be very careful with aftermarket levers because they can cause the clutch to slip or in my case even worse locked up my front wheel going down the road going 70 mph...:eek: I was very lucky that I did not crash !
Since then I run the BMW HP levers which are made by Gilles Tooling ! Very nice and no problems because the adjustment bolts that have a dab of paint on them to show if they have been tampered with can be left alone...:thumby:
 


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