R45 Re-Commission

[nicholsonj2252]

Side stand just needed cleaning and lubricating . Centre stand had some surface rust so has been treated with Kurust and will get a couple of coats of Hammerite Smooth

Off out for the rest of the day on the Aprilia 660 Tuareg , Kurust should have done its stuff by the time I get back and I can get first coat of paint applied


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[nicholsonj2252]

That looks a bit better

Not bad for a rattle can

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[nicholsonj2252]

Stripped the RH cylinder head and barrel off ready for fitting the refurbished head from Motorworks which is due for delivery tomorrow . Cylinder bore is pristine and the pushrod followers have no pitting at all . Took the exhaust valve out of the old head just out of curiosity to see if there was much wear in the valve guide and there was very little . Will put it all back together with new gaskets , o rings and fit new pushrod tube seals

 

[nicholsonj2252]

RH refurbished cylinder head received from Motorworks , de-coked it and the piston and all ready for refitting once I receive the gasket set . At Mikeyboy’s advice I’m also going to remove the LH Cylinder head and have Mike fit a new exhaust guide . Dropped the sump and cleaned that out , nothing of note in the oil . Have cleaned the exhaust so that’s all ready to re-fit .

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[nicholsonj2252]

LH Cylinder head and barrel refitted and RH side removed ready to take head to Mikeyboy on Saturday to have a new exhaust valve guide fitted

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[nicholsonj2252]

The observant among you will have spotted my typo , it should have read :
RH Cylinder head and barrel refitted and LH side removed
I had been in the garage since 0530 as I had to finish ay 0830 to go out , thats my excuse anyway ;-)

 

[nicholsonj2252]

LH cylinder head , barrel and piston all cleaned and de-coked , new exhaust valve guide all ready for fitting

 

[nicholsonj2252]

A trip down to see Mikeyboy yesterday morning and the new exhaust valve guide was fitted - big thanks Mike

This morning was an early start and by 0730 I had the LH piston , cylinder and cylinder head all re-fitted and the valve clearances set

Decided as it was raining outside and the planned ride out was cancelled to remove the gearbox and check the clutch and oil pump

On pulling the gearbox it was obvious a new clutch friction plate had been installed that had done very little mileage - it measured 6.1mm and as new specification according to the Clymer manual is 5.75mm to 6.25mm and the service limit is 4.5mm

Just as well I decided to take a look though as the gearbox input shaft seal was leaking and whoever had put the clutch in had covered the input splines with copper grease (rather than Staburegs) and it had mixed with the oil and made a real mess - thankfully none at all on the clutch friction areas

Pulled the rear crank seal whilst I was in and will fit a new one as well as a new oil pump or ring . Oil pump all checked out OK and within specification with no scores on the rotors

Removed the gearbox input shaft seal as well as the gear lever one and new ones ordered

Finally gave everything a clean ready for re-assembley next weekend

 

[PeteDuke]

Rear end of the bike re-assembled after a good clean and inspection

Swinging arm bearings checked and re-packed with grease . Brake shoes all OK as is drum bore . Final drive all OK

Rubber foot peg rubbers all cracked and brittle so new ones on order

Plan to get the centre and side stand removed next to check and lube the pivots and fit new springs

Still waiting on the replacement head from Motorworks but will get the old one removed

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Side issue I know, I bought my very first bike from

Rear end of the bike re-assembled after a good clean and inspection

Swinging arm bearings checked and re-packed with grease . Brake shoes all OK as is drum bore . Final drive all OK

Rubber foot peg rubbers all cracked and brittle so new ones on order

Plan to get the centre and side stand removed next to check and lube the pivots and fit new springs

Still waiting on the replacement head from Motorworks but will get the old one removed

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Side issue that is really not worth anything - sorry. But I bought my first bike from Dowsons on North Marine Road. Now long gone now a furniture warehouse.
Georgeous looking bike btw.

 

[nicholsonj2252]

New rear main seal , flywheel o-ring and oil pump cover o-ring fitted and flywheel re-installed . Clutch and gearbox refitted after fitting the new seals to the gearbox . Rear end built back up . Exhaust fitted and carbs loosely attached. Tomorrow’s job is to fit new throttle cables and fuel lines and re-attach the petrol tank . I’ll then hopefully get it fired up and check the timing and balance the carburettors . So if I don’t hit any snags it should be just about finished this time tomorrow

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[JohnnyBoxer]

Amazing job

 

[nicholsonj2252]

Well good news and bad news

Good news is after fitting the new throttle cables and fuel lines , put some petrol in the tank and the bike fired almost immediately into life

Even without doing anything to the carburettors or timing it settled into an idle (albeit a little high)

Bad news it was spitting out oil from the LH push rod tube seals . No idea why , index lines are pointing down and RHS is fine

Looking at the seals it does look like there is a gap - see photos

So unfortunately the RH head and barrel will have to come off to sort it out

There is a slight weep of petrol from the petcock but thats an easy fix

Another issue is that the front brakes won't firm up

I rebuilt the master cylinider with a new piston and seals and both the brake calipers were also stripped and rebuilt

No matter what I've tried the lever will just not go firm, it seems that the system is not building up any pressure

Also noticed that the brake light is constantly on triggered by the front brake pressure switch

If I unplug the front pressure switch the brake light extinguishes and the rear brake switch operates fine

So need to work out what the problem is and sort it

Even my youngest Grandson (resident BMW Master Mechanic) couldn't help ;-)

 

[mikeyboy]

FYI,
The collar on the push rod tube can move,
You might cure the leak with ahem,an adjustment
That said,I’d always fit new tubes and seat the rubbers on a bit of decent RTV

 

[nicholsonj2252]

FYI,
The collar on the push rod tube can move,
You might cure the leak with ahem,an adjustment
That said,I’d always fit new tubes and seat the rubbers on a bit of decent RTV

I used RTV , I'll take a look and see if the push rod tube collars have moved

 

[mikeyboy]

Regarding the brakes,
Is it possible that the lever is not returning to its correct rest position?
If it’s holding the master cyl piston in slightly the fluid orifice won’t be uncovered and you’ll struggle to bleed it .
Could also explain the brake light issue

 

[nicholsonj2252]

Regarding the brakes,
Is it possible that the lever is not returning to its correct rest position?
If it’s holding the master cyl piston in slightly the fluid orifice won’t be uncovered and you’ll struggle to bleed it .
Could also explain the brake light issue

Mike , when I pull the lever and look inside the master cylinder I can see the piston moving and the orifice opening up . Whether it's moving enough/returning I'm not sure but will strip it down and re-check everything . Unless you tell me different I don't think the lever position woudl effect the brake light as the switch is in the brass distributor that splits the lines down to both the calipers . Thanks as always for your advice

 

[nicholsonj2252]

So despite having fitted a master cylinder repair kit after removing the master cylinder and operating it on the bench with fuid in the reservoir it is not building any meaningful pressure at all and is harrdly pumping any fluid . The front brake was inoperative when I got the bike so I can only assuem the bore is worn or has been honed out to much in an attempt to clean it . Either way a new master cylinder is now on order , although I have had to go for the later rectangular type which Motorworks lists as a direct replacement for the round type

 

[nicholsonj2252]

FYI,
The collar on the push rod tube can move,
You might cure the leak with ahem,an adjustment
That said,I’d always fit new tubes and seat the rubbers on a bit of decent RTV

Looks like you were spot on Mike , after a suitable adjustment the push rod rubbers now seem visually to be a much better fit with no gap as before . I'll run the bike again tomnorrow and report back if it's fixed the oil leak . If not I'll order new push rod tubes

 

[Gelandestrasse]

On brakes, if the master cylinder bore was worn as you suspect, I would expect to get leaks from it, as if the piston seal can't build pressure then there should be wear elsewhere, too, and leaks appearing on the actuating-rod-end of the piston. I could be wrong. Another area where I could be wrong is the rubber pipes. They look very old in your pictures. These break down internally with age and stop the brake fluid from returning back up to the reservoir after being pumped up by the master cylinder. They can also stop air from doing its normal thing and rise up to the top of the system. So perhaps you have checked these and they are fully clear and offer no resistance and I am wrong again!

 

[nicholsonj2252]

On brakes, if the master cylinder bore was worn as you suspect, I would expect to get leaks from it, as if the piston seal can't build pressure then there should be wear elsewhere, too, and leaks appearing on the actuating-rod-end of the piston. I could be wrong. Another area where I could be wrong is the rubber pipes. They look very old in your pictures. These break down internally with age and stop the brake fluid from returning back up to the reservoir after being pumped up by the master cylinder. They can also stop air from doing its normal thing and rise up to the top of the system. So perhaps you have checked these and they are fully clear and offer no resistance and I am wrong again!

I’ve checked all of the lines and they are all clear , I can blow them through with compressed air and a length of welding wire passes freely through them . There are no leaks at the master cylinder which like you I would have expected with a worn bore . Testing it on the bench it hardly pushes any fluid out when operated so I’m struggling to see what it is causing the issue . I’ll do a bit more investigation


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