R69

[Bill-H]

Finally finished my building, and now have room to work on bikes in relative comfort.
So, now's the time to do some work on my old R69.
It's a bit of a mish-mash of bikes, R69 frame, and all the running gear except the engine which comes out of a 1951 R67.
First thing to try and sort is the front swinging arm. The bearings sounded like a coffee grinder when I first dropped the front shock absorbers off, and the through-bolt which holds the swinging arm to fork is resisting all attempts to remove it. It's threaded into one side of the fork, and when I eventually managed to loosen the bolt, instead of screwing out, it is just forcing the fork apart.
As there are two sets of holes through the fork, to allow the swinging arm to be repositioned for solo or sidecar operation, I have locked tight a length of threaded bar though the empty rear pair of holes to try to keep the fork from spreading.
I have managed to buy a new (only in storage for 50years) through-bolt, and a new set of bearings, so if heat, swearing and brute force don't shift it, I have the option of cutting it out and replacing it.

 

[turnipbmw]

exhausts look interesting !

 

[Bill-H]

The home-made exhaust it quite unique, as can be seen from the pictures, it mounts inside the frame, and the airbox has been cut and scolloped to accommodate it.
My first thoughts were to have it chromed, but it might look better in black.

 

[BigyellowGS]

such a pretty bike.. And that lovely slow tickover

If it were mine.. I'd not over restore it.. It's more beautiful because of it's "original" nature.

 

[Bill-H]

I'm slowly getting a few bits for it together, the correct headlight instead of the '80s Jap chrome thing, and a new wiring loom is on it's way as the existing spaghetti is imposable to work on.

 

[Bill-H]

I'll be taking the gearbox out next, the kick-start doesn't return properly, catching on some internal gearing unless you pull the clutch.
Who might be the best person to overhaul it for me?

 

[Bill-H]

such a pretty bike.. And that lovely slow tickover

If it were mine.. I'd not over restore it.. It's more beautiful because of it's "original" nature.

My thoughts exactly !

Sidecar is er.. unique as well, got to get a wheel rebuild on it as the rim has more rust than chrome.

A complete restoration would cost a bomb, and as the engine is not the original a bit of a waste.
The rear topbox is fibreglass and molded into the rear mudguard, possibly an ex-police bike?
The rear mudguard has had a section cut from it to allow the exhaust to fit.
Although a mudguard and correct silencers are still available, they are £800 each !!!

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Another nice project and enjoy the rebuilt

 

[Bill-H]

Rear trailing (swinging) arm will have to be moved backwards to allow the gearbox to come out. Removed the alloy covering nuts to find that the arm is retained by two screw in studs, with two holes in the end for a 'special tool' to be used to remove them. Looks a simple tool. and I will try to make one. Flat piece of bar with two short bolts through it might work.
BMW love their 'special tools' don't they !

 

[Bill-H]

When I loosened the rubber concertina to get to the bolts holding the driveshaft to the gearbox, some brownish oil ran out, gearbox rear oil seal gone then, another reason to get the box overhauled.

 

[Bill-H]

made the tool to undo the rear swinging arm pivot bolts.
Removed the rear wheel, disconnected the rear brake rod and unbolted a section of the rear mudguard to allow removal of the swinging arm.
Removed the four bolts holding the driveshaft UJ to the gearbox, and took swinging arm out.

 

[Bill-H]

There are only four bolts holding the gearbox in
and it looks like a dab of paint wouldn't come amiss either

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Great pics - keep posting!

 

[Bill-H]

Phone call to Derby, and I'm on my way with the gearbox chucked in the van.
The carbs which are fitted are the wrong ones, 22mm instead of 24mm and are not a pair, the main jets are different sizes. So asked about a refurb on them, so will be nipping back to Derby later this week.

The 50p in the picture would not fit down the throat of those carbs

 

[how much]

Blimey Bill

didn't realise you were taking it that far down....


seems a shame not to pull the motor out and have the frame powder coated


hm

 

[Bill-H]

The correct headlight which I bought a few weeks ago, although being the the proper fitment case, came off an older and smaller BMW (R27), and the bulb holder is for a single element bulb with no dip, so was looking for the proper fitment. After a bit of fiddling I found that the Lucas unit already on the bike could be made to fit into the BMW case - Result (pic 2), I can now use decent bulbs ! and replace the home-made instrument cluster and headlight (pic 1).

 

[Bill-H]

The R27 reflector was a bit manky, but the Lucas unit is clean.
The picture inside the case shows much surface rust, and you can see the two raised sockets near the back, which take charging light and the neutral light, the big hole is for the speedo, which fortunately is still with the bike.
Time for a sand blast I think, and yet another dab of paint.
The board with the yellow connectors and wires is the ignition and light switch. The 'key' at the front is the ignition key, push it in to turn on the ignition and turn it for the lights.

 

[Bill-H]

Blimey Bill

didn't realise you were taking it that far down....


seems a shame not to pull the motor out and have the frame powder coated


hm

now now !
don't let your aspirations run away with my capabilities.
After a close look, I think I can get the Hammerite spray can all round the frame without removing the lump, does Hammerite stick over dried-on grease?

 

[Bill-H]

3 days of alternately heating and soaking in WD40, I've got the swinging arm bolt out, complete with pile of black rust and roller bearings.
Still got to get the inner races out. Don't think I can knock them out from the inside using a long drift and a medium-sized lump hammer as the races are quite thin and frayed at the bottom.
I have read that a line of weld carefully applied to the race will see them drop out when they cool down, and I've also read that they cane be carefully drilled out using a Dremel or other small drill.
AS most of my welding looks like bird poo, I may be following the Dremel route.
The swinging arm has no means of being greased, so I shall drill and tap a grease nipple into the middle of the tube between the bearings.

 

[Bill-H]

new wiring harness came today, there's only 8 or 9 wires to it, still, I did get one of those 'can I put it back together' moments today.
The old harness was designed by Heath-Robbinson's colour blind sister.