Re-Coding adventure luggage

NeilGS

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Has anyone tried re-coding the locks on BMW adventure luggage?
The lid locks are simple but the securing locks look very well hidden and do not fancy taking them to pieces to get the lock barrel released. Anyone done it?
 
The coding I can do. Just how do I get at the barrels to remove them?
 
The coding I can do. Just how do I get at the barrels to remove them?
Remove 2 screws holding the rear latch/hook, gives you access to the 4 screws holding the lock cover (inside case). You'll see the cylinder access hole there
 
Mid way through some Vario panniers for the R1300GS. You just open the case, unscrew the 6 different length bolts from the back (make a note of which came from where). Persuade the plastic cover open enough to get to the lock barrel. Stick a pin in the protruding metal bit of the lock barrel from the side to release it - it'll will pull up and out. I don't think you need to remove the screws holding it down.
Then pull out your 5 or 6 wafers and springs. They're marked with a number 1,2 or 3. Sort them into 1's, 2's and 3's. Also identify the stop plate (it's like a wafer with an open end).
Then it's just a case of getting the stop plate and spring into the end position, and getting 4 or 5 wafers slotted in various slots (with associated springs) such that when you stick the key in they don't protrude either side of the barrel. Trial and error. Write a little map so that you can do the same for lock #2.
 
Remove 2 screws holding the rear latch/hook, gives you access to the 4 screws holding the lock cover (inside case). You'll see the cylinder access hole there
Do you remove the lock access cover and leave the outer latch in place, just getting access to a release hole?
 
Mid way through some Vario panniers for the R1300GS. You just open the case, unscrew the 6 different length bolts from the back (make a note of which came from where). Persuade the plastic cover open enough to get to the lock barrel. Stick a pin in the protruding metal bit of the lock barrel from the side to release it - it'll will pull up and out. I don't think you need to remove the screws holding it down.
Then pull out your 5 or 6 wafers and springs. They're marked with a number 1,2 or 3. Sort them into 1's, 2's and 3's. Also identify the stop plate (it's like a wafer with an open end).
Then it's just a case of getting the stop plate and spring into the end position, and getting 4 or 5 wafers slotted in various slots (with associated springs) such that when you stick the key in they don't protrude either side of the barrel. Trial and error. Write a little map so that you can do the same for lock #2.
Thanks but the GSA boxes are different. Have you got access to the Topbox barrel as they are very similar?
 
Do you remove the lock access cover and leave the outer latch in place, just getting access to a release hole?
Yes, I did it mounted so the outer metal hook stayed in place and just the inner latch piece comes off to access the top screw.. Be sure the rubber cover gasket is properly seated when putting the cover back on. As for the top case, it operates similar to the vario so may have a rubber plug to access
 
Yes, I did it mounted so the outer metal hook stayed in place and just the inner latch piece comes off to access the top screw.. Be sure the rubber cover gasket is properly seated when putting the cover back on. As for the top case, it operates similar to the vario so may have a rubber plug to access
I managed to sort it. Had to remove it from the bike as I couldn’t get the cover screws to line up . All together eventually but not a good design to recode a lock barrel.
Sorted the topbox too. There is a small yellow sticker on the base. Remove it and there is a small hole that gives you access to the lock wafer. Much easier than the side boxes.
 
Topbox access to lock barrel.
 

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