Rear Subframe Corrosion

I've seen them corrode like that and they've never been near a muddy track

It does look like some Gibbon has been replacing your tyres though

What have you covered the bike in? ............ FS365?


This bike hasn’t seen off road yet!!
And yes he was a baboon who I still get free tyres from but no longer fits them for me

Bike is washed weekly with Bmw bike wash
Acf50 after each weekly wash
Washed down at work with fresh water
Kept in the garage at work and at home
And the wheels are sealed with specific wheel sealant every month
 
This bike hasn’t seen off road yet!!
And yes he was a baboon who I still get free tyres from but no longer fits them for me

Bike is washed weekly with Bmw bike wash
Acf50 after each weekly wash
Washed down at work with fresh water
Kept in the garage at work and at home
And the wheels are sealed with specific wheel sealant every month

So let me get this right. You've owned this bike from new and it's now nearly 2 years old. How many miles has it done?

Your bike is kept in a garage at work, and at home, never been off-road (yet you've got Off-Road tyres on it). So presumably you are commuting on it every day, between home and work?

You wash it every week with BMW wash solution and fresh water, then ACF50 it every week after every wash. So that's over 100 applications of ACF50 in that short time?

If what you are saying is true, why are you ACF50'ing the bike every week? Is your bike exposed to salt or in a corrosive environment? What is your line of work (may explain environment)? Why are you having your wheels sealed every month?

Do you use a Jet Washer, or Power Washer when you wash it? Even if it's just once a month?
 
So let me get this right. You've owned this bike from new and it's now nearly 2 years old. How many miles has it done?

Your bike is kept in a garage at work, and at home, never been off-road (yet you've got Off-Road tyres on it). So presumably you are commuting on it every day, between home and work?

You wash it every week with BMW wash solution and fresh water, then ACF50 it every week after every wash. So that's over 100 applications of ACF50 in that short time?

If what you are saying is true, why are you ACF50'ing the bike every week? Is your bike exposed to salt or in a corrosive environment? What is your line of work (may explain environment)? Why are you having your wheels sealed every month?

Do you use a Jet Washer, or Power Washer when you wash it? Even if it's just once a month?

So many questions.................?
 
So many questions.................?

Load of bullshit that's why.

That rear wheel looks like he spooned those tyres on himself. That's not professional care and skill, that looks like trail-side DIY attempt. Nobody gives you free tyres unless you have a gun to their head.

If he was so diligent at keeping his stuff clean, why the poor attention to overspray of some chemical over his riders seat. Carbon stickers pealing away from his front mudguard. That bike is not a 'careful owners' bike. It's someone who rides their bike, and doesn't give a toss about cleaning it properly.

ACF50'd over 100 times and never been off-road, but wearing off-road tyres? Please...

Crock of bullshit.... 'in my opinion'.
 
That bike looks like it's had a poor cover-up, badly done detail before the video was made.

Jet washed from new every now and then, leading to porous paintwork and flaking. Maybe some light off-road trailing and DIY work, badly done.

In my opinion...

"NEXT".....
 
Even if it is bullshit, the BMW finish is still not acceptable. I have a 2004 Husky 450 which has had a hard life and the paint / wheels are in great condition. I had a 5 year old KTM 990, used for a few winters, constantly covered either mud or salt and not a spot of corrosion on it. My 1999 Kawasaki Drifter gets washed about once a year, sat outside for most of its life and again, though now showing some rust in underside areas the frame is fine. Had my GSA a year and it was corroded on every main component.
 
Even if it is bullshit, the BMW finish is still not acceptable. I have a 2004 Husky 450 which has had a hard life and the paint / wheels are in great condition. I had a 5 year old KTM 990, used for a few winters, constantly covered either mud or salt and not a spot of corrosion on it. My 1999 Kawasaki Drifter gets washed about once a year, sat outside for most of its life and again, though now showing some rust in underside areas the frame is fine. Had my GSA a year and it was corroded on every main component.

Ok so let's answer that.

What makes BMW Paintwork acceptable?

Does it have to withstand, acid attack? anti-scratch? anti-bleach? what?

At the end of the day, it's paint, that covers up the trellis framework. Which if scratched, goes rusty.

You can't compare cars, because they can handle the extra weight of underseal, multi-layers of paint. The GSA is supposed to be as lightweight as possible, or it becomes a non starter on your notebook checklist.

If out on your adventure in the middle of nowhere. How is any welder going to deal with welding your steel frame back together covered in flammable underseal? Or weld back an Aluminium Frame?

Its a world travelling adventure bike, and you will be glad it has thin paint when rebuilding a cracked frame to keep you going, that's what it's designed for.

Cars are not comparable to motorcycles as the ONLY parts on a car that you can see now which are metal are it's doors, boot and roof. Everything else is alloy, plastic or glass, bonnet, bumpers, headlights, wheels, sills, wheel arches, everything.. nothing to go rusty except metalwork underneath... and that IS GOING RUSTY you just can't see it.

At the end of the day, it's water based paint. If you use a jet wash, it'll go more porous and flake. If you use corrosive chemicals it will expose the metal and go rusty.

If you want a bike that's build more suitable for UK salt roads, jet washing and no maintenance. Go buy something else. Simple.

In my opinion.
 
I like the anakee wild tyres they last longer.
Yes just commute to work
14000 miles
Acf50 every week to stop it getting worse
The sticker on the front mud guard is peeling off but it’s plastic and yes it’s peeled off the other side and more has been ordered.
No it’s not in a corrosive environment
Wheels are sealed to stop them rusting and the spokes rusting.
No jet washer just a bucket and sponge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My bike corroded all over, unlike any other bike I own and BMW replaced all the corroded parts under warranty. So it's quite clear to me that there was a fault with the finish. There's really no need for interpretation or speculation or arguing the merits of how to weld a broken frame in Mongolia. The paint's shit. And thats also the dealers exact words.
 
My bike corroded all over, unlike any other bike I own and BMW replaced all the corroded parts under warranty. So it's quite clear to me that there was a fault with the finish. There's really no need for interpretation or speculation or arguing the merits of how to weld a broken frame in Mongolia. The paint's shit. And thats also the dealers exact words.

Like the dealer is an expert on paint. I don't think his comments can be considered any more expert than my comments.

I agree the paintwork needs to be protected and cannot be considered a strong barrier against corrosion on these bikes, but it isn't shit.

More education on how it should be cleaned and cared for would be a good start.

I'd like to see what would be considered a 'fool' proof paint application on the GSA. Have you ever picked up a can of paint or underseal.... it's heavy.

And then owners will just bitch and moan about alloy bolt heads oxidising, or brake rotors going rusty... can't paint everything. Just learn how to clean them properly FFS

The problem with the GSA is it's a bitch to clean. A trellis frame, nothing is smooth, it's like bed bathing Transformer Optimus Prime. People just don't want to do it. So the first thing they reach for is..... a fucking jet washer. Then blast away.

Well guess what, you're paintwork will be fooked and your bike will go rusty and oxidise.
 
Like the dealer is an expert on paint. I don't think his comments can be considered any more expert than my comments.

I agree the paintwork needs to be protected and cannot be considered a strong barrier against corrosion on these bikes, but it isn't shit.

More education on how it should be cleaned and cared for would be a good start.

I'd like to see what would be considered a 'fool' proof paint application on the GSA. ....................

Check out post No.3 as to what the issue is. No amount of protection or careful cleaning is gonna make one jot of difference.

The paint IS shit on quite a few of these bikes and I think a dealer's comments, whilst not sacrosanct, will be far better informed than yours (or mine) as they sell the bikes and see quite a few of them coming and going.

If you want to see fool proof paint protection (or as near as is practical) pop in to Nottingham when your passing and have a ganders at my 1190R; three and a bit years old, ridden all year round, off roaded and commuted on. Paint scratched and chipped on the crash bars where its been dropped but no corrosion on them. The only corrosion is surface oxidation on the disc bobbins that polishes off if I can be arsed to do it. All metal work/fasteners come up like new on the rare occasions I clean the bike.

This ain't a pop at WBM or 'my KTM is better' blah blah blah but you really need to stop make excuses for what is a very real issue with BWM's quality control on paint.

Andres
 
Check out post No.3 as to what the issue is. No amount of protection or careful cleaning is gonna make one jot of difference.

The paint IS shit on quite a few of these bikes and I think a dealer's comments, whilst not sacrosanct, will be far better informed than yours (or mine) as they sell the bikes and see quite a few of them coming and going.

If you want to see fool proof paint protection (or as near as is practical) pop in to Nottingham when your passing and have a ganders at my 1190R; three and a bit years old, ridden all year round, off roaded and commuted on. Paint scratched and chipped on the crash bars where its been dropped but no corrosion on them. The only corrosion is surface oxidation on the disc bobbins that polishes off if I can be arsed to do it. All metal work/fasteners come up like new on the rare occasions I clean the bike.

This ain't a pop at WBM or 'my KTM is better' blah blah blah but you really need to stop make excuses for what is a very real issue with BWM's quality control on paint.

Andres

Utter rubbish. So where is MY RUST?

So if the surface preparation is so poor from day one, before the paint is even applied. Why is my bike not rusting already?

In fact, over 7,500 miles now and no rust in sight. Not on the bolts, not on the paintwork, not anywhere? How do you explain that?

These are my riding conditions IN THE RAIN, FOG, MUD. So it's not a pampered dry day only bike.

So are you telling me my bike was built in a completely different factory to you lot? I've looked at and inspected my paint closely after all this bullshit on here and nothing wrong with it.

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Pictures of my R1200 GSA on DAY TWO of ownership.

I get mine covered in crap all the time and the paintwork is still mint.... :nenau:blast
 

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Pictures from my last inspection at 3,600 miles and the bike is still just like this now at 7,500 miles

Going through winter won't make any difference except salt exposure.
 

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There does seem to be too many posts on corrosion/paint finish concerns not to wonder if there isn't an issue here. At the same time, I can't help wondering whether any such issues aren't being exacerbated by pressure washing and the use of harsh chemicals.

I know of a guy whose managed to peel off the some of the plastic painted parts of his GS using a pressure washer. Also, I would question the need for any cleaners other than conditioning suds for keeping on top of cleaning the bike. Some people seem to take cleaning products at face value without either knowing the (acidic OR alkaline) ph value of the cleaner, or else fail to strictly adhere to instructions over dilution or dwell time or the avoidance of certain finishes (such as alloy).

If you're washing your bike on a two-weekly basis the only chemicals you should need are ph neutral detailers or other sacrificial sealants/waxes. Admittedly, I'm a bit of a saddo when it comes to car and bike detailing, but I have many more products for finishing surfaces than cleaning them. (The only time I've had to bring out the wheel cleaner or iron-x is for car wheels that have been neglected for more than a month - and even the I use diluted product and a very short dwell time).
 
Pressure washers have no place near a motorcycle really, unless in the hands of a sympathetic user.

Too many seals, gaskets, exposed grease, electrical connections, switchgear, gromets, porous paintwork, even tyre walls can be damaged with water pressure up close... :blast

Just stick to hosepipes

Some of our 'Blood Bikes' have been damaged in the past because people will insist on using jet washers (To lazy to wash by hand) at the end of their shift. Electrical switch gear usually the first to go, plus untold damage elsewhere. :blast
 


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