Rear suspension values...
- Thread starter jlabro
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Philip
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i have my rear set 6 clicks from fully soft - i'm about 15 stone - usually add a couple of clicks when taking a passenger
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Whats suspension? 
pragmatix
Guest
RTFM and then experiment.
Pete A
Pete A
pragmatix
Guest
TUNED IN said:Whats suspension?
The act of suspending or the condition of being suspended, especially:
A temporary abrogation or cessation, as of a law or rule.
A temporary debarment, as from school or a privilege, especially as a punishment.
A postponement, as of a judgment, opinion, or decision. See synonyms at pause.
Music.
The prolongation of one or more tones of a chord into a following chord to create a temporary dissonance.
The tone so prolonged.
A device from which a mechanical part is suspended.
The system of springs and other devices that insulates the chassis of a vehicle from shocks transmitted through the wheels.
Chemistry.
A system in which microscopically visible particles are dispersed throughout a less dense liquid or gas from which they are easily filtered but not easily settled because of system viscocity or molecular interactions.
Does that answer your question
Pete A
Mouse
Registered user
These settings work for me, I'm 16 stone (100kg) and my regular pillion weighs about 10 stone (60kg)
1 up: Preload about 4 turns from minimum. Damping half a turn from minimum.
2 up: Preload on the "max" line. Damping one turn below maximum.
2 up + luggage: Preload as high as it will go. Damping one turn below max.
Front suspension I usually leave at 2 clicks from minimum.
Haven't really experiemented with off road settings.
1 up: Preload about 4 turns from minimum. Damping half a turn from minimum.
2 up: Preload on the "max" line. Damping one turn below maximum.
2 up + luggage: Preload as high as it will go. Damping one turn below max.
Front suspension I usually leave at 2 clicks from minimum.
Haven't really experiemented with off road settings.
The only way to do it prtoperly is adjust the preload for the static sag and then experioment with the damping. I did this and ended up with settings similar to Mouse's post although I'm a bit lighter at 12.5 stone and I like a bit more damping.
I don't go off road but I guess you need more preload so the suspnsion doesn't bottom out, not a clue about damping off road but maybe you need less.
I don't go off road but I guess you need more preload so the suspnsion doesn't bottom out, not a clue about damping off road but maybe you need less.
For 1 up road riding - i've found turning the preload to max (hard) improves the handling if one is err.... riding in a spirited fashion!
zxrcy
Guest
Suspension settings
Just to stir things up. Remember adjusting preload does not affect spring rate. There is no harder or softer suspension it just sets the ride height for any given rider by preloading the spring. Setting the preload to max raises the back end of the bike putting more weight onto the front wheel and steepening the head angle. Basically making the front end turn in quicker.
The reason to turn preload up for two up riding is to stop the back end sagging, slowing down the steering and causing understeer (tendency to run wide in corners). It doesn't change how the load is supported. Spring rate is fixed by the load rating of the spring. You can however change how the spring reacts under a heavier load by increasing both compression and rebound damping.
One of the best ways to understand how suspension changes affect bike handling is to go to a few track days and experiment with different suspension settings. Under more extremes of suspension movement you can really see how changes affect handling.
Just to stir things up. Remember adjusting preload does not affect spring rate. There is no harder or softer suspension it just sets the ride height for any given rider by preloading the spring. Setting the preload to max raises the back end of the bike putting more weight onto the front wheel and steepening the head angle. Basically making the front end turn in quicker.
The reason to turn preload up for two up riding is to stop the back end sagging, slowing down the steering and causing understeer (tendency to run wide in corners). It doesn't change how the load is supported. Spring rate is fixed by the load rating of the spring. You can however change how the spring reacts under a heavier load by increasing both compression and rebound damping.
One of the best ways to understand how suspension changes affect bike handling is to go to a few track days and experiment with different suspension settings. Under more extremes of suspension movement you can really see how changes affect handling.
blackburnlee
Guest
Thus far I've left the front on the 4th notch from min and have just adjusted the rear preload. As the last posting said the preload merely changes the attitude of the bike. As for the rebound damping at the rear I've just put mine on the standard setting and left it at that. It seems to work perfectly well.
Solo I have the preload on the "Medium" mark which is fairly high and when I take the wife and/or luggage I simply wind it up as far as it will go. Keeping it simple like that seems to be the best way ahead, for me at least.
Solo I have the preload on the "Medium" mark which is fairly high and when I take the wife and/or luggage I simply wind it up as far as it will go. Keeping it simple like that seems to be the best way ahead, for me at least.
Mouse
Registered user
Re: Suspension settings
This won't apply in the same way to bikes with telelever front ends though, I think?
My rough guide for setting the rear preload is - "is the headlight pointing in the right place?"
Assuming it was set up correctly initially, of course
zxrcy said:
This won't apply in the same way to bikes with telelever front ends though, I think?
My rough guide for setting the rear preload is - "is the headlight pointing in the right place?"
Assuming it was set up correctly initially, of course
zxrcy
Guest
Handling
Most of the magazines that reviewed the 1200 early on commented on the handling being sluggish because it dragged its back end around. . . too much weight over the back end. The cure was to crank up the preload, raising the back end and putting more weight to the front end and decreasing the head angle making the bike steer quicker. The telelever front end doesn't really affect this it still responds to steering head angle to make it turn quicker. The changes in ride height are small but the effect is significant.
On my ZX12R just a 4mm shim in the rear suspension made a very noticeable difference in handling.
Most of the magazines that reviewed the 1200 early on commented on the handling being sluggish because it dragged its back end around. . . too much weight over the back end. The cure was to crank up the preload, raising the back end and putting more weight to the front end and decreasing the head angle making the bike steer quicker. The telelever front end doesn't really affect this it still responds to steering head angle to make it turn quicker. The changes in ride height are small but the effect is significant.
On my ZX12R just a 4mm shim in the rear suspension made a very noticeable difference in handling.
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