Remus Race Can

  • Thread starter Thread starter bandit
  • Start date Start date

Does fitting a Remus race can and y Piece make much difference ?

  • Yes about 10hp

    Votes: 4 8.9%
  • Yes about 5hp

    Votes: 26 57.8%
  • No waste of money

    Votes: 10 22.2%
  • Too loud man

    Votes: 7 15.6%

  • Total voters
    45
I fitted Y piece and the Remus is coming tomorrow. After fitting Y the idle speed went upto 14-1500, took it to dealer after trying all the off, pull fuse,twrist throttle malarky which did nothing. They reset throttle bodies (they say) and it was fine. Just fitted aux lights and motoswitch and noticed code plug missing, errrm it would appear you remove the code plug when removing the cat !!
(oi where's my plug)
Don't forget the weight saving which is a lot between the cat and std exhaust.
Did all this on cars years ago and me rice racer and found the loverly noise sometimes leads to the belief that it goes faster !!
Anyway I would rather it sounds like a bike not a sewing machine.
 
I've looked in the fuse box, but don't really know what the cat code plug looks like so come on guys where does it sit. Is it in the row in front of the fuses because I have an empty socket then a relay and then another bigger box thing ??

I'm asuming that it should be where the empty socket is ??
 
Re: woo hoo

Nicholas said:
Got the Remus can on with the NOT FOR ROAD USE etched into it

You may have discovered by now it easily polishes off.
Tim
 
I've posted this round here somewhere before but here it is again. Hope it's useful.

Click here for those with "Not For Road Use" on their end cans.
 
pfff

I've heard this £100 pounds saving too but never found it to be the case.

Cheapest place I've found for y piece (everyone else seems to be stuck at £195) is sherlocks
 
cecilthecat said:
Here is a Dyno chart taken from the Remus website for the R1150GS. What do you guys think that have tried this setup as the gains look a bit to good to be true.

Only just seen the dyno chart you posted. I don't know about the bhp or torque figures, but the CO2 emission figure seems very high for a vehicle fitted with a cat.

The limits for cars first used on or after 1 August 1986 is 3.5% of total exhaust emission; and those first used on or after 1 August 1975 and before 1 August 1986 is 4.5% of total exhaust emissions (both figures at idle).

I know GS's have a reputation for burning oil, but that one must have been a real smoker!!
 
Here's the dyno chart from my Adv, following fitting of a Techlusion 259. The bike has a std air filter, Sebring Y piece and Remus Alloy Race can. It had about 23k miles on it when this was recorded.....

Mike:)
 

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  • r-259-setup-800.jpg
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settings!

Mike, what settings are you now running on the techlusion?:D
 
Re: settings!

newman7096 said:
Mike, what settings are you now running on the techlusion?:D

To quote the guy who dynoed it 'The 259 is designed to work straight out of the box, the minor variations in manufacture in individual bikes can be dealt with by adjustment'.
This means that my settings would be meaningless for your bike - leave it on the factory ones or,if you have doubts, get it dynoed.

The two runs on the dyno are 'straight from the box' compared to 'tweaked', BTW.
 
Dyno time booked!!

Thanks Mike,

I was begining to think as much so I've booked an hours dyno time with TTS Northampton for next tuesday (15th )so they can sort it out!

Definately the best mod yet though!!

:beerjug:
 
Y Piece Mod

It's probably been answered before - but I'm new and can't find it.............

I've bought the Y piece (because I had a flat spot/surging between 3-4000 rpm). fitted the Y piece ( can't get it sealed for luv nor money ..suggestions please??..)

Flat spot / surging now occurs between 2-3000 rpm any ideas?? Is it worth going for the end can - iquite like my shiny OE exhaust.

Thanks

PS where is that Motronic code plug chip thing I've seen mentioned???
 
Al, just fitted a Remus can and had your sealing problem too. Quick call to John Donnan in Ardglass (who has fitted more of these things than he cares to remember) who said that he's been using ordinary silicone sealant for donkeys, same as you use in your windows. Squirt of that stuff and it's as tight as a drum, no problem.
 
one more time now...

awaiting pipe and can delivery, any day now but are you sure you mean simple bathroom type silicone sealant??? is this a windup???
 
Straight up, ordinary B&Q silicone sealant. Mine's been on since June, nary a mis-placed fart from it since
 
set up

what is the simple set up for installation again...

The mechanicals shouldn't phase me but the seromonial ritualistic setup procedure could do with explaining in simple terms.



I refer to the...

Unplug fuse 5 (then put it back in or not?)
Disconnect the electrical end?)
Twist the throttle at some point to calibrate something or other?
Etc etc.

cheers
 
oops!

seems to be a bit missing ther, that's because I have to look at the keys when typing !


2nd question was wether to dissconnect lambda sensor which leaves a hole unplugged in the 'y' piece or do you mean just dissconnect at the electrical end?

thanks again
 
Whoa!!! Nothing kills a lambda sensor quicker than silicone. Don't do it!! Use proprietary exhaust sealer if needed - mine is assembled dry and doesn't leak; put everything in place and get it all nicely lined up before you tighten anything.

The trick with the lambda sensor is to unclip the wire before you unscrew it and allow the wire to 'wind up' on itself. Spread the twist up the cable as you undo it. Keep it in this position while you fit the 'Y' and when you come to screw it in, it should then end up with no twist in the wire. Simple. Saves taking the tank off.

Remove the cat code plug after you have done the 'Y', then pull fuse 5 out, count to ten and replace it. Turn the ignition on and , without starting the engine, open the throttle fully 2 or 3 times. Job done.
 
thanks

thank you for above but what is a cat code plug?

Still awaiting delivery of bits!!!
 
Cat code plug

Cat code plug is a thingy ('scuse the technical terminology) which selects a particular fuel map inside the Motronic to suit the emission regs of the country you're in; i.e. it makes tickover and small throttle openings very lean. Can be found towards bottom left of fuse box, sometimes pink or grey or green. Get rid of it! Gimme a shout if you ever escape from Brummingham to the beauties of Warks.
 


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