Replacement battery

Thanks for the tip but the ABS works a treat. If its feeling tired simply go for a long run. If it doesn't start give the breakdown service a bell :thumb
 
The 8 cell Ballistic for £125 has the same cold cranking amps as the top level £20AH Yuasa at £105. IMO well worth the extra £20 just for the weight saving. The 12 cell is £150 and gives 50% more starting current. Both are said to last 10 year's so swap them to the next bike(s)
For packing out the gaps use some closed cell foam from tv packaging.
 
Thanks for the *varied* advice guys. I'll check out the suggestions - even buying the same again - but I live in the south of France and a battery that can't handle the typical lowest temp of 3C is not up to much, even if it's not used more than once a week.

As for sticking it on the Optimate every ride... well, that's not practical from the fourth floor of an apartment (but, you're right, I didn't mention it :))
 
The Ballistic is my favourite because it self heats when working hard to start the engine in cold conditions. Lead acids dont heat as much and will get damaged with too much current. The ballistic being solid state is tougher.

Not cheap by a long way but I personally think the extra cost is worth the it for insurance. The alternative is a cheapie 12AH battery and expect to change it every two years or less. Costs over the the long life of a Ballistic look about the same.
 
kenseaton said:
Thanks for the *varied* advice guys. I'll check out the suggestions - even buying the same again - but I live in the south of France and a battery that can't handle the typical lowest temp of 3C is not up to much, even if it's not used more than once a week.

As for sticking it on the Optimate every ride... well, that's not practical from the fourth floor of an apartment (but, you're right, I didn't mention it :))
Click to expand...

You should have bought a donkey not a GS :D
 
If the Optimate isnt an option get the smaller Ballistic. Less money and you wont need a huge cold cranking current.

The ballistic website in US shows the CCA of the all sizes. The 8 cell (225 CCA) is probably enough in UK but 12 cell (410 CCA) would be insurance. Where weather isnt so cold, a 4 cell that gives 135 CCA might cope. Many cheap lead acids wont do much better and being cheap they wont hold up for long. They will go off even quicker when its not practical to use an Optimate charger.

On balance the 8 cell Ballistic makes sense. 135 CCA from the 4 cell is good for its size but low for a GS, and a stressed battery has a shorter life.
 
No I cant because I don't yet have one. But when my already weak standard battery fails I will be getting one. The caveat is that I'm assuming the adverts are truthful and the reviews are genuine.

I also saw this. If its good enough out there its good enough for me
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294569&highlight=HP2+battery

But I dont see why there is any concern that something so small wont fit into the huge battery box. Pack around it with hard foam and job done. Terminals can be extended with flattened (and insulated) copper tube so the wiring remains standard.

A comparative review (which I cant find now) with another brand of Lithium dry cell said the Ballistic had much stronger terminals. On something that could last many years that's important to me.
 
Here is another consideration when replacing your battery, ever considered these:-
"HICAP2 starter upgrade kit -

"HICAP stands for High Capacity Oxygen Free Copper DC Distribution Circuit and the main part of this kit is a pair of uprated highest quality starter and earth leads. These leads are a better spec than your bike had from new and by flowing more current to the starter (and completing the circuit using a better quality earth lead) your bike will start more easily resulting in less starter wear and extended battery life. These will flow more than 70amps where your starter only draws around 55amps so these are well specced for your Guzzi(from http://www.gutsibits.co.uk).
I fitted these to my Guzzi V11 along with a new battery, cannot actually say if they add anything to the starting effort but they are about twice the cross section of the original cable which are not much bigger than bootlaces:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
mcinlb said:
Here is another consideration when replacing your battery, ever considered these:-
"HICAP2 starter upgrade kit -

"HICAP stands for High Capacity Oxygen Free Copper DC Distribution Circuit and the main part of this kit is a pair of uprated highest quality starter and earth leads. These leads are a better spec than your bike had from new and by flowing more current to the starter (and completing the circuit using a better quality earth lead) your bike will start more easily resulting in less starter wear and extended battery life. These will flow more than 70amps where your starter only draws around 55amps so these are well specced for your Guzzi(from http://www.gutsibits.co.uk).
I fitted these to my Guzzi V11 along with a new battery, cannot actually say if they add anything to the starting effort but they are about twice the cross section of the original cable which are not much bigger than bootlaces:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Sounds like the latest sales con job(the cable not the poster) Just go down the local electrical wholesalers and buy a couple of meters of 16mm copper cable, a lot cheaper or if know or see an electrician he'll be pleased to accommodate as we all get odd bits which only go in the scrap bin. Amazing what the offer of a drink will do!.
 
Thicker cables will help but that sounds like a gimmick to me. For the bike with restricted access, automotive cable is a good bet - more flexible than commercial wiring.

Not too bad for the amount a bike needs -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Mari...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item19cb53dd68

The starter may pull 55 Amps when spinning, though even that seems low to me. But electric motors can pull around 8 times the running current for a few moments while spinning up to speed. The starter motor does that under full load so who knows what its pulling for that first second after the button is pressed. Its that peak load which old batteries cant handle in cold weather.

Air start at 400psi would be my answer. The reservoir need not be large and it could be topped up with a suitable small compressor.
 
Miff said:
My 1200's battery died this year. I suspect it's the original battery from 2005

NewBattery.jpg


So I replaced it with this. IIRC it was £27 (trade price). Notice the similarity between the two of them...

OldBattery.jpg


BMW wanted over £100 for an OE battery :jes
Click to expand...

The OEM one seems to be 14AH where as the replacement is 12AH, does this make much of a difference? I'll be running with LED spots and some accessories ie phone/sat Nav
 
A 14AH lead acid is nothing special, so why pay BMW prices?

Have a look at Wemoto. At their prices who cares about the warranty. :)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Poncherello
  • Locked
Sold SRL 2 replacement battery.
Replies
4
Views
256
Poncherello
Poncherello
Victor c
Sena SRL 2 replacement battery
Replies
8
Views
2,150
DaveTilton
er-minio
Urgent: temp replacement for oil cap
2 3
Replies
42
Views
930
Barnoe
Barnoe
Mallard
Nav 5 battery replacement
Replies
6
Views
369
CMF1827
CMF1827
Handguard Screw replacement
Replies
7
Views
180
Barnoe
Barnoe


Back
Top Bottom