Runing in my new 2008 GSA

[ac92413]

Hi Guys

My new 2008 1200 GSA is my first new bike.

Not knowing the first thing about mechanics, I was wondering what "runing a bike in" is meant to achive.

The manual says keeps the revs under 4000rpm (difficult) and vary the terrain ... what does this do? ... is it the best way of runing it in? I just liike to understand things.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Mr K]

Running in is meant to make all the bits in your engine fit together smoothly and snuggly.
Varying the terrain, as oppossed to doing 1000 miles on a motorway means you're changing gear and varying the load on the engine, which is good for it.

Don't forget you're "running in" the brakes and suspension too.

I wouldn't be too fanatical about 4,000 revs, but do let the temperature gauge get off the bottom before "giving it lots".

 

[Yellow Peril]

Run in as per the book then after the first 600 mile service ring it's neck she'll be liek a sweetum after that. Or that least I think its after teh 600 mile service There is a thread all about it some where..

 

[Voyager61]

I was told by my dealer to run mine in 'hard' ... so more revs to ensure the cylinders bed in properly. Apparently this sorts the oil consumption issue, which might otherwise take until 12k+.

I kept mine to around 4k rpm but once warm accelerated hard from time to time (4th gear, 5/6k), just for the sake of the cylinders.

But it is about striking a balance, since everything else has to be run-in too. So, plenty of different kinds of roads and varied engine loads, lots of gear box work ... la-la-la.

 

[Edventure]

Rode mine like I stole it from the get go.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Uses no oil whatsoever and runs very well.

 

[Engineer]

Hi Guys

My new 2008 1200 GSA is my first new bike.

Not knowing the first thing about mechanics, I was wondering what "runing a bike in" is meant to achive.

The manual says keeps the revs under 4000rpm (difficult) and vary the terrain ... what does this do? ... is it the best way of runing it in? I just liike to understand things.

Cheers

Andy

You will find loads of different theories about how running in should be done - most of it seems to be based more on pseudo science, myth and religious style faith, rather than good engineering reason. Ignore it all, and follow the manufacturer's recommendations and you will not go far wrong.

One thing that a lot of people overlook is that there are many things to run in - not just the just the cylinder bores; as a result they will give you lots of misguided twaddle.

 

[wilbjr21]

You will find loads of different theories about how running in should be done - most of it seems to be based more on pseudo science, myth and religious style faith, rather than good engineering reason. Ignore it all, and follow the manufacturer's recommendations and you will not go far wrong.

+1

Can't understand why people want to do other than what it states in the manual. I would have thought that BMW know their bikes better than anyone else.

 

[Globerider]

Running in 1200 GS Adventure * correct oil use

Worth noting that BMW also recommend CASTROL GP 20/50
Definitely for the running in period - up to at least the 6000 mile service
& ideally afterwards also.
ie, definitely do not use synthetic oils during running in! cus it won't bed in correctly.

 

[R1200GSA]

IMHO, I have done a significant amount of research into "running in" in previous years, and spoken directly to several well known "experts", in the engine building and tuning fields. These people were dealing with modern day, production line and high performance race machinery.

The "good engineering reason" that I was given time and time again, is that due to the materials and manufacturing processes used today, and not forty years ago, the modern day engines that are rolling off the pristine production lines, and not some old shed out the back, require very little, if any running in period whatsoever. They are not made of chocolate. The vast majority of them have already been run up/tested before they have even left the factory. Provided they are allowed warm up, there should be nothing wrong with revving the engine the way you are going to anyway. Running in too cautiously, leads to glazed bores, sticking rings etc.etc. and therefor, oil consumption problems.

Cant think the last time I saw "Please Pass/Running In" sticker on any car, van or lorry

Cant even remember seeing a modern vehicle burning oil.


Its your money and your bike, its a wonderful, modern day peice of engineering technology. Run it in however you fancy............. and remember that you have a BMW 2 year warranty.

 

[R1200GSA]

+1

Can't understand why people want to do other than what it states in the manual. I would have thought that BMW know their bikes better than anyone else.

Aw FFS. The guy was only asking the question. Give him a break.

"I would have thought that BMW know their bikes better than anyone else"
Why are there so many posts on this site then ?

 

[wilbjr21]

Aw FFS. The guy was only asking the question. Give him a break.

"I would have thought that BMW know their bikes better than anyone else"
Why are there so many posts on this site then ?

Well I feel I must bow down to superior knowledge !! You sound like you know all about it. Must throw the handbook away

 

[kiwiAdventure]

Aw FFS. The guy was only asking the question. Give him a break.

"I would have thought that BMW know their bikes better than anyone else"
Why are there so many posts on this site then ?

This question gets asked time after time.

I agree BMW has advised how to run the bike in. They have done many miles and built many bikes surly they have the experience. The boxer engine is designed to use oil. If your bike packs up because of you hard riding while running in it is your fault not BMW.

 

[Voyager61]

Well ... my dealer's advice was contrary to the manuals.

I have had some online corrspondence with folk who know something of metallurgy ... and the 'give it some revs' (for the seating of the piston rings) point of view seems to prevail.

Make of this what you will.

 

[oblertone]

Yet another ...

... view expressed here, might be snake oil, might not be

 

[Phil Clarke]

Wow its been a while since this one was asked but I see that American blokes website has made the inevitable reapearance....

If he told you to run your bike in by riding it off a cliff would you follow his advice? when I first checked this website out about 7 years ago - he was talking about race bike engines. His research related to how to run in a race engine when its obviously impossible to do 600 miles of gentle throttle work. His method works - for race engines and possibly for newly rebuilt road engines. It also only relates to running new bores in and he makes little or no mention of bearings. In actual fact Plain bearings need a lot of running in to gently remove any lumps and bumps in the bearing surfaces which will stick up above the oil flim between the shell and the journal. If you don't run it in gently you'll scroe the journals and then don't be surprised if you knacker the big ends after 50k (or less) So his website now seems to claim its the same as for all road engines..... hmm Everyone talks about modern manufacturing methods removing the running in requirements but its a load of tosh. Do you honestly think BMW will hone a bore, or hone a plain shell big end bearing any more than they have to? No they do it to a reasonable level and then deal with any inconsitencys by providing the new owner with precise and careful running in instructions. If you ignore these and your engine goes bang you can forget a warranty claim....

Also - can you really be bothered doing an oil change after 20 miles? And newly built motors from the factory are a different kettle of fish to a newly RE-built race (or road) engine. Follow the book and use the running in period to familiarise yourself with a new bike. Glazing of bores is another myth which only ever happes if you use fancy oil and are ridiculously careful riding it. The photos he shows of new pistons with blow by - well thats ok but what do they look like after 20k?? And as for the guys honda that ovalised its bore - no way can that be caused by not bedding in the piston rings....

So if your a power ranger who will only do less than 500 miles per year on your plastic fantastic which you will sell after 2 years then fine - follow his advice. If you want you bike to last for 100k plus then run it in properly.

 

[ac92413]

Thanks for all your replies.

I'm keeping the revs down as best I can ... but can't (practically) avoid going up tp 5000rpm. I've stuck to B roads and avoided the normal M4 route to work.

So far, at 350 miles;-

Pro's-
Love the gear box ... what is should have been previously
Think ESA is great (not just the gimmick I thought it may have been

Cons -
Heat grips stopped working at 320 miles
Huge vibes at 400rpm
Engine sometimes cuts out in 2nd (normally when approaching roundabouts at appropriate speed!)
Coughs and splutters in lower gears
Sometimes need to open the throttle to get the thing to start!

Not too concerned about the cons so long as it all sorted after the first service!

I'm sorry to say, but my old Triumph Tiger's 885 triple engine is still better!

Cheers


Andy

 

[shinobi]

cons!!!!!! sounds like the bike im getting rid of to buy new adv that sounds the same

 

[SonicTheHedgehog]

Heat grips stopped working at 320 miles
Huge vibes at 400rpm
Engine sometimes cuts out in 2nd (normally when approaching roundabouts at appropriate speed!)
Coughs and splutters in lower gears
Sometimes need to open the throttle to get the thing to start!

I'm in the same sort of position regards running-in (though the dealer said I'd be fine up to 5k no problem), and I've only seen one of your glitches, the 2nd-gear cut-outs, although I've not had a recurrence for a while.

I've got my 600 mile service tomorrow/Thurs (yay!), and will have to see what BVM says about my current gripes:
ASC doesn't work (they know about it).
Alarm's flakey (related to ASC, I think).
Side-stand switch doesn't always disengage properly, so I'll tap into 1st and everything dies.

Does your bike have ASC, out of interest? I was in Clarkes at the weekend and one of their guys mentioned their demo GSA was borked: heated grips stopped working, and the ASC won't come on.

*wonders what else this incipient software update will encompass*

 

[ac92413]

I'm in the same sort of position regards running-in (though the dealer said I'd be fine up to 5k no problem), and I've only seen one of your glitches, the 2nd-gear cut-outs, although I've not had a recurrence for a while.

I've got my 600 mile service tomorrow/Thurs (yay!), and will have to see what BVM says about my current gripes:
ASC doesn't work (they know about it).
Alarm's flakey (related to ASC, I think).
Side-stand switch doesn't always disengage properly, so I'll tap into 1st and everything dies.

Does your bike have ASC, out of interest? I was in Clarkes at the weekend and one of their guys mentioned their demo GSA was borked: heated grips stopped working, and the ASC won't come on.

*wonders what else this incipient software update will encompass*

Yes, I do have ASC .. but I don't know if it is working or not! I would expect some kind of warning to come on if it wasn't, but I hit some ice and that sphinxter (sp!?) feeling this morning but no ASC warning came on. ... so who knows!

 

[Paul Wakefield]

Wow its been a while since this one was asked but I see that American blokes website has made the inevitable reapearance....

If he told you to run your bike in by riding it off a cliff would you follow his advice? when I first checked this website out about 7 years ago - he was talking about race bike engines. His research related to how to run in a race engine when its obviously impossible to do 600 miles of gentle throttle work. His method works - for race engines and possibly for newly rebuilt road engines. It also only relates to running new bores in and he makes little or no mention of bearings. In actual fact Plain bearings need a lot of running in to gently remove any lumps and bumps in the bearing surfaces which will stick up above the oil flim between the shell and the journal. If you don't run it in gently you'll scroe the journals and then don't be surprised if you knacker the big ends after 50k (or less) So his website now seems to claim its the same as for all road engines..... hmm Everyone talks about modern manufacturing methods removing the running in requirements but its a load of tosh. Do you honestly think BMW will hone a bore, or hone a plain shell big end bearing any more than they have to? No they do it to a reasonable level and then deal with any inconsitencys by providing the new owner with precise and careful running in instructions. If you ignore these and your engine goes bang you can forget a warranty claim....

Also - can you really be bothered doing an oil change after 20 miles? And newly built motors from the factory are a different kettle of fish to a newly RE-built race (or road) engine. Follow the book and use the running in period to familiarise yourself with a new bike. Glazing of bores is another myth which only ever happes if you use fancy oil and are ridiculously careful riding it. The photos he shows of new pistons with blow by - well thats ok but what do they look like after 20k?? And as for the guys honda that ovalised its bore - no way can that be caused by not bedding in the piston rings....

So if your a power ranger who will only do less than 500 miles per year on your plastic fantastic which you will sell after 2 years then fine - follow his advice. If you want you bike to last for 100k plus then run it in properly.

I've often wondered about doing the "ride it like you stole it" run in but never had the courage and stuck to the manual. Good to see a justification of it. But the one consistent feedback from those who adopt the more aggressive approach is significantly less oil consumption.