hi guys....just a quick one...my 99 1150 gs seems to be running rich....it runs fine and ticks over but smells very fumy and if running in the garden it stinks the house out......is it a bike shop tune up or can you buy anything to help adjust mixture....many thanks
RUNNING RICH
- Thread starter mark1971
- Start date
Do yourself a favour!
You are coming new to a bike that ceased production 11 years ago. Try using the search fascility. All the information you will need is well documented, and been discussed to death on this forum.
So for starters here you go:-
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/tps3.1.pdf
You are coming new to a bike that ceased production 11 years ago. Try using the search fascility. All the information you will need is well documented, and been discussed to death on this forum.
So for starters here you go:-
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/tps3.1.pdf
4ndy.jones
Registered user
Hi Mark, what is the set up regards exhaust and cat converter? Do you have a standard exhaust and cat or have you fitted a Remus and Y piece?
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Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
Mark, By all means, study the various options for measuring and setting the TPS but don't adjust it yet. It won't affect your mixture richness.
The R1150 mixture is completely controlled by the Motrinic and O2 sensor. So first, do you have any fueling mods on your bike? Is the O2 sensor connected? How many miles are on your bike/O2 sensor?
Btw, before the bike has warmed up to 4 bars, the Motronic makes it run rich. Drive the motorcycle for 5 miles to fully warmed up and then assess, does it still seem like it is running rich?
Also, what kind of gas mileage are you getting?
The R1150 mixture is completely controlled by the Motrinic and O2 sensor. So first, do you have any fueling mods on your bike? Is the O2 sensor connected? How many miles are on your bike/O2 sensor?
Btw, before the bike has warmed up to 4 bars, the Motronic makes it run rich. Drive the motorcycle for 5 miles to fully warmed up and then assess, does it still seem like it is running rich?
Also, what kind of gas mileage are you getting?
I wouldn't leave it "running in the garden" for long
- they would all stink if you do that for too long!
These bikes a designed to be started then driven off - not left running at a standstill.
Cheers........................Grizzly
- they would all stink if you do that for too long!These bikes a designed to be started then driven off - not left running at a standstill.
Cheers........................Grizzly
No not necessarily, do a search on here for setting it but more likely it may not be working at all.
I've been on trips away when a TPS has packed up on one of the lads 1150, very high fuel consumption and a sooty exhaust are the most common symptoms.
4ndy.jones
Registered user
Hi Mark, what exhaust/y piece are you using?
I had the same issue with a Remus and y piece, problem resolved by removing cat code plug, tried the steptoe MOD also but this did not work for me but it has for many others!
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I had the same issue with a Remus and y piece, problem resolved by removing cat code plug, tried the steptoe MOD also but this did not work for me but it has for many others!
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Mark there are many factors to consider....
Open the fuel cap how fresh is the fuel does it smell old and stale?
Yes! Then that's your answer
No? Are you using the fast idle lever when starting from cold ?? Then that's another answer as the ECU overfuels by a fair bit and they run VERY rich when cold so no fast idle lever no extra air to help burn extra air
Otherwise if you are not terribly experienced with the spanners or nervous of cocking something up?
Might I suggest contacting this fella http://www.gsshop.biz/shop/
He has a great reputation "Somewhat grouchy at times(and I don;t effin blame him!) and he suffers fools lightly, but knows his BM's inside out and may have a loan bike
Get your bike tuned or set up and then you 2 things!
A) You will have a benchmark of how the bike should run and how economical or smelly it should be
And B} You then have 6000 miles to go ride it until it needs another service
P.S. These bikes are made to start on the fast idle Lever***, You then pull your helmet and gloves on and ride away
Do NOT Idle them to warm them up before riding, Just step on, start them and ride off
P.P.S. At lights etc Do NOT hold the clutch in all the time Select neutral and release the clutch lever its a dry clutch system and it accelerates wear greatly
( *** it opens the throttle slightly for extra air to help burn the extra fuel the ECU is injecting into the cold engine)
Open the fuel cap how fresh is the fuel does it smell old and stale?
Yes! Then that's your answer
No? Are you using the fast idle lever when starting from cold ?? Then that's another answer as the ECU overfuels by a fair bit and they run VERY rich when cold so no fast idle lever no extra air to help burn extra air
Otherwise if you are not terribly experienced with the spanners or nervous of cocking something up?
Might I suggest contacting this fella http://www.gsshop.biz/shop/
He has a great reputation "Somewhat grouchy at times(and I don;t effin blame him!) and he suffers fools lightly, but knows his BM's inside out and may have a loan bike
Get your bike tuned or set up and then you 2 things!
A) You will have a benchmark of how the bike should run and how economical or smelly it should be
And B} You then have 6000 miles to go ride it until it needs another service
P.S. These bikes are made to start on the fast idle Lever***, You then pull your helmet and gloves on and ride away
Do NOT Idle them to warm them up before riding, Just step on, start them and ride off
P.P.S. At lights etc Do NOT hold the clutch in all the time Select neutral and release the clutch lever its a dry clutch system and it accelerates wear greatly
( *** it opens the throttle slightly for extra air to help burn the extra fuel the ECU is injecting into the cold engine)
P.S. It could also just be the T.P.S.
But ALWAYS start with the simple and THEN get complicated
But ALWAYS start with the simple and THEN get complicated
First things first.....How long have you owned the bike ? Are you new to 1150GS ownership ?
thankyou for the great advice,,,the choke lever does seem to have an issue,,,if i pull it up it doesnt really stay there and if i try to push it all the way off it kinda forces the switch gear casing open,,where it sits....so something not right there......im new to all this forum stuff so maybe try to show some photos of the bike...cant believe the size of it...HUGE MONSTER...
thanks again.
mark
thanks again.
mark
Sound like the FAST IDLE lever/cable and LH switchgear may need a bit of attention ..........................BUT PLEASE NOTE - it is a FAST IDLE lever NOT a CHOKE.
It speeds up the idle when the engine is started - BUT IT HAS NO EFFECT ON RICHNESS/MIXTURE - that is automatically controlled by the bikes electronics (ECU) based on engine oil temperature, ambient air temperature etc
SO DON'T GET OVER-CONCERNED ABOUT THE FAST IDLE LEVER - it's a convenience but not a necessity
Cheers............................Grizzly
It speeds up the idle when the engine is started - BUT IT HAS NO EFFECT ON RICHNESS/MIXTURE - that is automatically controlled by the bikes electronics (ECU) based on engine oil temperature, ambient air temperature etc
SO DON'T GET OVER-CONCERNED ABOUT THE FAST IDLE LEVER - it's a convenience but not a necessity
Cheers............................Grizzly
only had bike since last thursday and not even rode it...got it from a dealer off ebay who also delivered it....after a 20year layoff i got myself a suzuki hayabusa with all intensions of touring europe,,(always wanted to tour ww2 sites) only to find out my body isn't what it used to be....done the ride to normandy with completely numb hands and cramps,,best ride of my life as for the roades and scenery...decided i gotta change bike...test rode ktm 990 adventure the other week,,but had no fuel gauge and was chain drive,,so after researching went for the big bmw.....so thats me..very new to the bmw 1150gs....need to give it a quick service as im off to cornwall next friday..
mark
mark
Hi Mark, Whereabouts in Kent are you?
I would suggest riding the bike for a full tank full of fuel around kent (plenty of good rides as I'm sure you know) then check your MPG, I get around 48 mpg with mixed riding and mixed roads, so about 200 miles until the fuel light comes on, if you get somewhere near this then the bike is probably fine and working normally.
Changing the fluids is a very good idea as you cannot trust anyone else to have done it properly, it takes about an hour or so to change engine oil and filter and gearbox and final drive oils, and then you'll at least know it's been done properly.
I would suggest riding the bike for a full tank full of fuel around kent (plenty of good rides as I'm sure you know) then check your MPG, I get around 48 mpg with mixed riding and mixed roads, so about 200 miles until the fuel light comes on, if you get somewhere near this then the bike is probably fine and working normally.
Changing the fluids is a very good idea as you cannot trust anyone else to have done it properly, it takes about an hour or so to change engine oil and filter and gearbox and final drive oils, and then you'll at least know it's been done properly.
Mark just hold the twist grip open a cm to start her and then ride off ASAP At lights for the first 2 or 3 miles you will probably need to Crack the throttle open again
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