Before diving into the swingarm removal, I thought that I'd turn my attention to the broken wires in the grips. It's always nice to do a clean job between the grubby ones.
This may be useful for you poor sods who do not own BMW's finest K-Series of all time because the grips are pretty much universal in their design. Chin-up, at least your inferior bike has something in common with a K1.
So, first thing was to bare some of the wire left in the grip itself. There's never much of it because there isn't a great deal of room in there. Don't be tempted to add too much new wire as you'll have difficulty cramming it all inside and you'll risk undoing your work by pinching the wire.
First, roll back the grip itself to expose the wire element under the wrapping material.
Take a sharp knife (without a locking blade, less than 3 inches in length, if you're worried about getting nicked
) and cut enough of the wrapping material away:
If you go into the material far enough you will uncover the bare wire element. There shouldn't be any need to do that. Just expose enough of the insulated end to pare the insulation back, solder and heat-shrink the joints (I didn't have the right diameter wire in brown so red has been used instead):
Once that's done, the wires can be fed through the cut-out in the plastic tube of the grip and a wrap of insulating tape (once around, avoid making it bulky) to hold it. At this extreme end of the grip you won't notice any loss of heat caused by the extra insulation:
Then the grip is rolled back over.
I left the wires long at this stage just to make it easier to work with.
From here onwards it helps if you don't have fingers that resemble saveloy sausages.
Gently pull the snapped wire inside the handlebar as far as it goes without snapping off more of it. Then cut away the rubber sleeve enough to expose the two wires. I used a knife to slit it lengthways to avoid snapping or cutting the fine wire inside by over-enthusiastic use of wire strippers.
Then the two wires were extended, soldered and heat-shrink:
Before a larger diameter sleeve of heat-shrink went over them and the original rubber sleeve:
Then it was a case of sliding the end-weight inner (suitably daubed with rubber grease to help the O-Rings slip along nicely) back inside the bars and feeding the extended wires through it at the same time:
The wires have to go through the end at this stage to allow the outer part of the assembly to be re-fitted:
Then once the outer part is going on, the wires have to be pulled back so that they exit in the cut-out. The tiny roll-pin can now be re-inserted to lock the two halves together:
With that done, I cut the wires down, soldered them:
and covered with heat-shrink (remember that the heat-shrink goes over one wire before soldering the joint. God knows how many times I've realised the error after admiring my soldering - I know, it's not that good either
):
The inner assembly can then be pushed carefully back inside the bar, the wires stowed neatly and the grip re-secured with the upper and lower grub-screws:
Just awaiting the refurbished end-weights:
If you are considering changing the original countersunk retaining screw with a nice shiny stainless, make certain that it's no longer than the OE one. If the replacement screw is too long it might cut through the wires where they emerge from the centre of the inner sleeve.
I came to appreciate the benefits of a positive-close throttle; you can "cruise", you can take your hand off to wave gaily to the proles and see the look of wonderment behind the iridium visored helmets of oiks who have the nerve to nod at a BMW rider and I find the fuel shut-off of the injection to be a little bit abrupt, this thing helps smooth things out.
Made oi laff! Been there, done that 
