haditlowered
Registered user
The Akro header pipes came with silicone, i used that when i put the flappy replacement pipe in - seems fine.
Seized flap valve
- Thread starter unibar
- Start date
The Akro header pipes came with silicone, i used that when i put the flappy replacement pipe in - seems fine.
comberjohn
Registered user
The Firegum will work fine despite being good for 'only' 1000°.
I've had my exhaust apart a few times with no problems after using it. It's what it's made for.
Ask bendy about his 'one piece system'.
I've had my exhaust apart a few times with no problems after using it. It's what it's made for.
Ask bendy about his 'one piece system'.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The Firegum will work fine despite being good for 'only' 1000°.
I've had my exhaust apart a few times with no problems after using it. It's what it's made for.
Ask bendy about his 'one piece system'.
That's exactly my point.
Fire Gum will seal the joint very well indeed. It will do nothing to stop the metal self welding and becoming a one piece system. I used ordinary high temperature CS-90 and have paid the price. Only the correct nickel paste has any chance of success.
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After a 17 hour day decided to put it all back together. Due to lack of sleep im now a little paranoid about the position of the valve but cannot be doing with taking it apart again as there are no gas exhaust leaks.. The position of the pulley is as such... Is it wide open
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...authkey=!AIDWKQUFwabD7cA&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg
I think so but am doubting my sanity
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...authkey=!AIDWKQUFwabD7cA&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg
I think so but am doubting my sanity
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
transalper44
Registered user
Perhaps a daft question but how can you tell if the Flap valve is not working as it should ?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Easy way - Valve should move as you open and close the throttle.
Techie way - plug in a GS-911 and read the error codes
Techie way - plug in a GS-911 and read the error codes
On mine the flapper motor whirred away for a several minutes before giving up each time the ignition was switched on. That plus an error code on a GS911. I think when the ignition is switched on the motor cycles the valve to check its working then sets into whatever is the right position. If it seized the cycling obviously won't work so it tries a few times then gives up and registers the fault.
Well if you want a replacement one you can have mine.
It's only done about 6000 miles and it's sitting on the workbench and never going back on.
Cables and control box is also sitting on the side if anyone wants them?
PM me with your details
But personally I'd remove the whole lot. One less thing to go wrong when your 100's of miles from civilization
It's only done about 6000 miles and it's sitting on the workbench and never going back on.
Cables and control box is also sitting on the side if anyone wants them?
PM me with your details
But personally I'd remove the whole lot. One less thing to go wrong when your 100's of miles from civilization
Bendy toy
Registered user
Or even at the Tecos petrol station speed bumps.
NZRalphy
Registered user
30 quid from TT?
(Man gets up, finds yellowpages, returns)
"Umm, Engineers"
(Dials local number)
"Hi have you got any 63mm diameter Stainless Steel tube in your rack?"
"Just the thin wall welded tube is great thanks"
"You have! Great can you cut me a 70mm long piece please?"
"Does a 5er sound about right?"
"Yeah ok then"
"I'll be down later today ok?"
(Puts down phone)
(Man gets up, finds yellowpages, returns)
"Umm, Engineers"
(Dials local number)
"Hi have you got any 63mm diameter Stainless Steel tube in your rack?"
"Just the thin wall welded tube is great thanks"
"You have! Great can you cut me a 70mm long piece please?"
"Does a 5er sound about right?"
"Yeah ok then"
"I'll be down later today ok?"
(Puts down phone)
Bendy toy
Registered user
If you need them, Mikalor W2 Stainless Steel Exhaust clamps (59 to 63mm) are £3.65 for two plus £1 delivery if you want them posted. Use lots of anti seize on the threads.
just been up to williams bmw where they said the valve has corroded, luckily is under warranty so no cost to me ,speaking to them I said that lots of people just remove them and they agreed I asked about if doing that would affect the warranty but was told no so might take it off when the new one is fitted .
I heard the motor for the servo constantly working when ignition was on , you could see the cables trying to open the flap. ( I assume it has a test process ? ). Not sure how long it was siezed but I removed it and disconnected the cables ( it was solid). I had a great improvement in performance immediately and no ill affect.
I removed the flap from the original pipe by drilling out the locating screw and grinding the welds out, my view was if it was gone completely it couldn't vibrate into more restrictive position at a later date ... Maybe over kill but I feel better it will not cause any more problems.
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Bendy toy
Registered user
It seems a lot of work for the sake of a bit of tube, but it should work just fine.
misterlaffer
Registered user
I cleaned mine in Mr Muscle and soaked in Petrol. Fine for twelve months but seized again so recently visited a local indie car exhaust centre showed them the valve so they cut a piece of exhaust to size - they charged nothing for the pipe section. It was very slightly over-size in diameter so cut some slots in the edge to make it slightly conical to ease fitting at both ends and sealed using Holst Firegum and GunGum. I freed the original clamps using WD40 and re-greased before re-fitting. Finally painted the section of exhaust black with some Barbecue paint (not stainless). Had the throttle bodies adjusted recently and the mech' said there was a slight loss of back-pressure without the flap so needed compensating. Running sweet now, barely pops on the overrun too. 
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