Servicing at home - Tools required

[Tartan Terror]

Hi folks,

a mate has asked me to service his 06 1200GS and other than the oil filter tool I see listed is there any other specialist tools I will require?

cheers
TT

 

[littleredrooster]

Naw - don't think so. You'll need the usual selection of torx bits to get rocker covers off/adjust end float etc., feeler gauges for the clearances, vacuum gauges or similar for balancing the TBs.....can't think of owt else. Allow about an hour if you stop for a cuppa.

 

[ts2]

You'll need a good set of Torx drivers. Be careful to make sure you use the correct one for each bolt as one step smaller will often grip enough to turn, but will ruin the head when it gets tight.

Other than that, its pretty normal though I do remember having to buy an unusual spanner size, as there wasn't one in my set (I forget the size, was it 15 mm, and I think that was to remove the exhaust, so not relevant for your servicing).

TobyS

 

[Timpo]

5nm - 25nm and 15nm - 110nm torque wrenches 3/8 drive.

 

[Pukmeister]

WARNING

Before you start, if he has ABS brakes, do NOT try to bleed them in the conventional manner. You'll feck his brakes. Do your research first on the forum.

 

[Zigo]

Some tips

When servicing the GS, consider these often neglected points (at least by the dealers):
Change the final drive oil
Check/lube the driveshaft splines of the FD. Use anti-seize paste with 60%moly content. Ordinary grease is no good.
Check the mono swingarm for slack in the bearings, should be none. Just try to rock the swingarm sideways.
To be safe rather than sorry later, remove the swingarm bearings, lube them (I use the same high moly lube as for the splines). The right bearing is simple bolt on, the left has an adjuster hex screw with a locking nut. You need a special tool for this which I made myself, see this link for pictures: http://schnellpanzer.proboards104.com/index.cgi?board=r1200gs&action=display&thread=239. I used a 30 mm long socket where I cut a small slit with a grinder. The slit must be wide enough to accommodate a 12mm ring wrench. From a 12 mm hex key I then cut a suitable length to fit inside the 30mm socket. When replacing the bearing, adjust the torque of the hex adjusting screw to 7NM. Using the special tool you can now hold the adjusting nut still while turning the 30mm lock nut to the correct torque. Simple!

 

[AndyW]

Zigo.....drop me an email please so I can contact you.

andyw DOT inuk AT gmail DOT com

Thanks

 

[Tartan Terror]

Cheers guys.

Now this 'end float' you talk of? Explain please with pictures if possible

 

[MIKA]

Cheers guys.

Now this 'end float' you talk of? Explain please with pictures if possible

TT, sorry don't have pictures no doubt someone will find them for you though and post them. The end float is on the valve rocker and can be adjusted like the valves, easy to see when the rocker cover is off and back to simple engineering.

 

[Zigo]

Mika means checking rocker arm end play, should be between 0.05 and 0.4 mm. If you adjust, adjust to minimum play according to RepROM.

Forgot to mention that you always have to check the free movement of the rear brake caliper that is of the floating type. Remove the pads and check if the caliper can move freely left-right. Anyway it's recommended to dismantle the caliper/mounting bracket and lube the guidance pins. It's the front one that tends to get stuck. Will cause a lot of grief to your pads an brake disk!

 

[roddy]

have a look see here
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=123