Sleeping beside the bike in a Moroccan river bed

Tim Cullis

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The term 'sleeping beside the bike' is normally used when the person is camping wild, rather than in a defined camp site. This means there won't be access to toilets, running water, hot showers, camp supermarket, restaurant, whatever. In my case, however, it also meant no tent, no sleeping bag, no stove. In fact, sleeping under the stars in the Moroccan desert with the temperature set to plumet to freezing point. So how did I come to be in that predicament?

I made a number of mistakes that day. The three beers and a bottle of red wine the night before were probably the first. Second was planning a 250-km long piste carrying full luggage. Third, I guess, was doing it alone.

In January 2006 we developed the ABC guide to Moroccan piste riding (ABC being Steve Attwood, Simon Bowles, Tim Cullis) where we would head off enthusiastically for the piste totally forgetting about tools, first aid, water, petrol... This time I was better prepared. I had all my tools, a massive first aid kit, 7 litres of fluids plus a FULL tank of petrol. Yes, all 37 litres of it. That was probably mistake number four. Why take 37 litres when 20 would easily have been enough?

The bike was handling like a cow on the piste, what with all the gear such as electric tyre inflator, five different guide books and a 17-in screen notebook computer. To lighten the bike I had decided earlier to cache some of my equipment and pick it up later. This included my tent, sleeping bag, fleece bag liner, etc. That was definitely mistake number five.

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Grit your teeth and you float over

I was doing fairly well, either surfing over the sandy spots or taking avoiding action, then I nearly came a cropper when the piste fell four feet into an oued (wadi).

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Almost went headlong into this

It took some negotiating to back the bike out through the stones (the GS could do with a reverse gear) and find a way round.

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View other direction

Then as I gained a rise near the top of a Tizi I saw a Polish van on the left. A woman was communicating with a PMR radio with her friends who were climbing the mountains ahead to do paragliding. I stopped to chat and she said she had to stop there as the van couldn't go further. I reccied the route on foot and it was dire. A horrible gully with major stones, many of them loose and as big as footballs. Only one thing for it. So I gunned the throttle and blasted through. Well, in my dreams! In the last 20 metres the front wheel hit something really big and I was thrown off, with the bike on top of me.

I scrabbled out from under the bike and turned off the engine, expecting the woman to be running towards me to help, but in fact she was running back to the van to get her camera (at which stage I awarded her honorary GSer status). Whilst she took photos I unloaded the luggage and she eventually came and helped get the bike through the last series of choke stones.

I had been riding with my jacket undone (mistake number six) so there was no protection when I fell and my side was hurting like mad, so I took a couple of 30mg codine tablets to dull the pain and carried on.

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Great scenery

Then I stopped to take some more pics and fell again. Duh! Last year my number one problem when biking was forgetting to put my ear plugs in; I would start off, only to remember and have to stop again to put them in. This year with the 1200GSA, I had a different problem--remembering to stop in places where I could put at least one foot on the ground. The two wheel ruts were filled with small stones and I tended to ride on the smoother section in the middle. I felt such a numpty falling in such a manner, especially when I could have fitted my low seat for the trip (mistake seven).

Mistake number eight was when I ran out of water in the platypus and realised that apart from the bottle of red wine, four of the other five litres of fluids were neat Red Bull and the sixth was a 50/50 mix with water. I was using fluids at a alarming rate. Although the temperature was only 22C, the high pressure system over Morocco was so profound that my clothing was generating static electricity and the altitude didn't help.

I consoled myself with the fact there was a junction ahead with another piste that had been recently sealed. Within minutes I could be off and away.

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New smooth piste

I came to the junction and no, it wasn't a sealed piste. But it looked smooth enough and it was only 29 km line-of-sight to the nearest town.

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Fun bits

The new piste was fun at first, with swooping river bed crossings.

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Heavy traffic

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Ancient graveyard

Then with 21 km to go, the piste disintegrated and reappeared on the other side of a bank that I couldn't get to.

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Where's the piste gone to?

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You can see the bike on the other side, but I can't get up this

All recent tyre tracks (and camel prints) turned down the river bed which was filled with a loose grit. The grit was worse than sand to ride on, more like ball bearings, and progress was painfully slow.

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No fun now

I did a kilometer or two, all the time the sides of the river bed appeared too high to get out. Eventually, with the heat fast going out of the sun, and a chill wind started, I realised I was too tired to continue. I couldn't delay making the decision to stop as it would soon be dark.


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Sun down

The desire to sleep was overtaking me and I took stock of the situation: no tent, no sleeping bag, no stove, one tiny bit of bread saved from breakfast. On the positive side, I had a head torch, a cigarette lighter in my tool kit, and a large plastic emergency exposure sack that doubled as something to lay out if I was doing bike repairs in the sand.

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A handy grave-sized depression

Knowing there could be traffic on the piste, I scraped out a shallow depression in the sand some metres away and laid my exposure sack down. I stripped off my riding trousers so I could fit the goretex liner, and then added a couple of layers on to my upper body. I could secure everything on the bike apart from my tank bag, so I laid that on the ground to use as a pillow.

Right, I was ready for the night ahead.

To pass some time I thought I would send a text message to my family. The mobile coverage in Morocco is so complete that even the more remote pistes have full reception. I switched on the phone to find there was no coverage which further confirmed I was on a piste that was no longer used.

To be continued...

Tim
 
He'll be ok i'm sure some old woman will be along in a minute and save the day :augie
You got bigger balls than me Tim :clap
 
Some hobbled camels were grazing nearby as the sun dipped below the horizon at half five, and Sirus appeared shortly afterwards. With the sun gone it got cold quickly, though the bike's onboard computer showed the temperature was still around 8C. By just gone six it was totally dark with a wonderful canopy of stars overhead. I lay for a while slowly eating the bread, watching for satellites and saw a couple, then a couple of meteors. Orion was to my right and by coincidence I had lain down with Polaris between my feet, so during the course of the night the sky revolved around me.

My hands, head and feet were getting very cold, so I dug out my thermal waterproof socks for my feet, wore my 'buff' as a head scarf and put my gloves on. Pulling the plastic over my head I went to sleep.

The next time I awoke, the moon had risen, and the landscape was no longer so hostile. I could see literally for miles. Throughout the night I woke sporadically with the cold, and could judge from Orion's progression across the sky how long it had been since I last fell asleep. Ever so often I would walk up and down the piste to get the blood flowing and some heat in my body, and a couple of times I ran the bike engine and plugged in my electric jacket, switched on the grip warmers and heated my gloves up on the cylinder head. The temperature gradually dropped to 5C, then 3C.

First light was at half six, with dawn at just gone seven. I was very cold and walked over to the bike to run the engine and plug in my electric jacket. The onboard computer confirmed the temperature was now at just 1C. After gaining a bit of heat I went back to my pit and slept some more, finally getting up about nine by which time the sun had started to warm things up a bit.

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Happy campers

Overnight the bruise on my side had developed into something 25cm in width and 10cm high, running across my left kidney. I took a couple more codine. Generally, though, I was feeling much refreshed, though a bit jumpy with all the Red Bull, and I set to work planning my escape. Whilst still wearing my trainers I walked up the river bed for a couple of kilometers to check conditions.

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Bits of tyre tracks everywhere, but no defined piste

The major problem was the lack of a defined piste and the endless possibilities, none of which were easy. I walked up and down, working out a route, and laying out marker cairns.

Then I constructed an on-ramp to get me onto a higher section of the river bed out of the grit. And an off-ramp and another on-ramp further on, then spent half an hour moving some of the worst stones. I then walked my planned route backwards to the bike, trying to memorise the route by the stones.

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Mark it with cairns

All of this was delaying the fact that eventually I needed to move. According to the SatNav I had just 18 km to go, and there was no more delaying. So I packed the bike up, walked the escape route one more time, then started off. I made the first obstacle and was out of the gritty river bed.

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Decide your own route

I bounced across a plateau and descended once more into the bed, the back out. One more crossing to make, this time of about 300 metres and mainly large rocks. I walked the route through the last obstacle, rested a while to compose myself, then launched the bike into the river bed. And then finally, I was through, on to a decent track again with just 12 km to go.

As I reached the village a few locals gave me puzzled looks.

Although the night on the piste was uncomfortable, I think I made the right decision to stop. Whilst the bike's headlights and auxilliary lights were good enough to continue in the dark, I was so tired that I think if I had continued I might very well have made some bad mistakes. And in reality the 15-16 hours I spent beside the bike went very quickly.

What it did was to give me a new perspective on some of the ordeals faced night-after-night by soldiers of all nationalities fighting winter campaigns. Look on the bright side--I only had one night rough, it didn't rain or snow, I saved the money on hotel bill and didn't have to pay for the camp site. Oh, and nobody was shooting at me (and the camels weren't rutting).

Tim
 
nice adventure tim, but dý think the bikes too big for you and your legs ?

ie would a smaller, lighter bike have got you through a bit easier ?
 
Undoubtedly a Yamaha 50 without luggage would have been easier. :bounce1

I did more than 1,200 miles offroad in January and the 1200GSA is generally fine so long as the pistes live up to their name (i.e. piste = groomed track).
 
Good to hear that you survived the trip Tim. Looking forward to seeing more pics.

Sid

Is that a sticker from Zebrabar on the beak?
 
:bow :bow :bow .
will there be a dvd.
im sat on my arseeee thinking if only.i'm not wearing a hat if i was i would take it off out of repect for your thread.
 
I was wondering why peeps use the term piste for sandy tracks that locals use, and that get wiped out by rain from time to time. Jeez!
 
To pass some time I thought I would send a text message to my family. The mobile coverage in Morocco is so complete that even the more remote pistes have full reception. I switched on the phone to find there was no coverage which further confirmed I was on a piste that was no longer used.

To be continued...

Tim

Thats a pity . You should have phoned the local takeaway for a kebab.
 
Some more photos from the 6-week trip.

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Shown as a mule track on maps, this is a mountain route across the High Atlas from Demnate to Skoura

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Tizi-n'Outfi: 200+ short piste sections due to meltwater flooding

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Piste from Ouarzazate to Finnt oasis

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Left or right? Although I couldn't see the track I chose right. Why was I wrong?

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Piste to Tazenakht

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No shortage of water at Ouarzazate

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The piste between Bou Azzer and Agdz

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Riot police in action at Agdz (surreptious filming)

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The obligatory deserted well photo

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Great hotel near Zagora: http://www.saharasky.com/ (with one of the telescopes on the roof)

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Dakar special stage near Erfoud

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Medicopter team treating a fallen rider

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Another fallen bike

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Watching the 4x4 cars

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January and the crops are already growing!

Marooned in a snowstorm I met Hannsjorg Voth, a German artist who has constructed several innovative
structures in the desert near Erfoud, including the Golden Spiral and Orian's belt.

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This is his 'Himmeltreppe' or 'Staircase to Heaven'

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However, this is one of the several routes to the house that I turned back on

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Todra Gorge flood damage

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Todra Gorge

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On the right is the original asphalt

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Piste to Agoudal

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Piste in the M'Goun Massive. Do I go left up the stream, or right down it.

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Left was a dead end, this is where right went to

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Great piste, amazing colours

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This was great fun, with hard-packed berms for high-speed cornering

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Photos never do the scene justice

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Deserted film set

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At Bikershome in Ouarzazate

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Take one HP2 with small tank, no luggage capability. Add fuel pods, luggage and what do you get?

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Nothing is more guaranteed to pi$$ off the touts than arriving at Ait Benhaddou by the back door piste

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Goats in Argan trees (a relative of the Olive tree)

More to follow.

Tim
 
Great report Tim....well done :thumb

Very interested in this route.....I've done the start of it but on the last trip we wanted to do the Telouet loop to Ait Benedhu so we went over the Tichka...

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I presume it's this one you're talking about?? (below)

Any more info on it?? It's definitely on the list to do :thumb

Cheers
Bill
 

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Yes, that's the one. If you are not worried about missing Marrakech, the route via Tizi-n'Outfi and Tizi-N'Fedhrat is a quick way to get to Ouarzazate. I did Azrou to Bikershome in an easy day, even though the days are short in winter. It's now sealed all the way, but with at least 200 sections where streams have brought down debris onto the road. In summer months this will be less of a problem. It's at least as spectacular as any of the other major passes.

Tim
 
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Sometimes the bike doesn't float over the sand

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Much kinder, ride anywhere surface

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No way, thank you. Been there, done that!

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Note the bike at top of slope. And no, I didn't try descending.

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In the Anti Atlas

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Red sky at dawn over Agadir.
You know how the saying goes... Moments later the heavens opened

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Piste from Amesnaz (north of Agadir) heading east

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Generally easy

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As long as you don't mind heights

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Great views

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Back on the road

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A close up of a car to give you the scale!

Although it was getting dark I then took the piste from Tahanaoute to Oukaimeden. Oukaimeden
had the highest ski lift in the world until the development of north American ski resorts. I had
stayed there when trekking with mules and wanted to revisit. The auxiliary lights on the 12GSA
lit up the piste very well, but it just went on and on. As it climbed through the snow, several
areas had meltwater puddles which showed up in the lights as an area of darkness. Pine branches
were laid over difficult spots to provide traction for vehicles. Several hours later I arrived in
Oukaimeden but was disappointed with hotels (especially Chez Juju) and decided to take
the road down to Marrakech, arriving about 10pm.

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Dawn at Bab Debbagh (Marrakech's tanneries)

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Saw these guys operating a radar trap and asked if I could take a photo.
They said 'no', hence the weird angle of the pic


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Track to geode mine east of Marrakech

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The size of the spoil heaps gives an indication of the scale of mining

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One of the open shafts

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Some freebie samples

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Back to the Middle Atlas. Great biking roads.

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White Storks getting their nest ready

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The Festival of Eid is a good time to buy sheep skins. These were 20 dirhams each (£1.30)

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Ever wondered where all these ridiculous Moroccan loads end up?

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Offroading in the Col du Zad

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At times a seasonal lake (diyat), at other times wonderful fun

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Temperature reaching 26C in the shade

to be continued...
 


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