Sticking exhaust butterfly valve

Arfamow

Registered user
Joined
Jul 31, 2012
Messages
53
Reaction score
0
Location
Honiton, England
Can anyone help with a sticking butterfly valve on a 2010 1200GSA? Having searched the web I know I'm not alone in having this problem (servo motor continually trying to cycle the valve at startup) - but I can't find any definitive repair solutions. I've had the valve off and applied a cocktail of various lubricants (all from the garage, none from the bathroom!) which hasn't made a lot of difference. The valve is very, very stiff to operate - the return spring has no chance! Web based solutions include 'turn the valve to fully open and disconnect the operating cables' which, when I've paid as much as I have for the bike, and some clever Bavarian has gone to the trouble of designing and building the thing for a purpose, seems a bit of a waste - if it's on the bike I'd like it to work! Are replacements available and if so, how much?

Any help very welcome!
 
Have you tried contacting BMW Service? Warranty might be over but there are still a few quality issues to face while bike is just a few years old.

Just my 2 cents
 
Can anyone help with a sticking butterfly valve on a 2010 1200GSA? Having searched the web I know I'm not alone in having this problem (servo motor continually trying to cycle the valve at startup) - but I can't find any definitive repair solutions. I've had the valve off and applied a cocktail of various lubricants (all from the garage, none from the bathroom!) which hasn't made a lot of difference. The valve is very, very stiff to operate - the return spring has no chance! Web based solutions include 'turn the valve to fully open and disconnect the operating cables' which, when I've paid as much as I have for the bike, and some clever Bavarian has gone to the trouble of designing and building the thing for a purpose, seems a bit of a waste - if it's on the bike I'd like it to work! Are replacements available and if so, how much?

Any help very welcome!

Working for a bavarian company, you don't normally hear the words 'clever' and 'Bavarian' in the same sentence.
 
Mines doing exactly the same 2010 GSA, tried same things, now sticking again. Unless some says otherwise only options I see are: remove and immerse in bath of release-oil for a while; replace; or remove the flap (one screw holds it to the axel/pivot) and get the bike remapped
 
Have you tried contacting BMW Service? Warranty might be over but there are still a few quality issues to face while bike is just a few years old.

Just my 2 cents

I'll give it a try - they can only say 'no' - can't they???
 
Mines doing exactly the same 2010 GSA, tried same things, now sticking again. Unless some says otherwise only options I see are: remove and immerse in bath of release-oil for a while; replace; or remove the flap (one screw holds it to the axel/pivot) and get the bike remapped

Might try the oil bath approach - just need work on an explanation to the domestic manager as to why the new bike is in pieces already!

Flappy valve issues aside, a remap is on the 'to do' list anyway!
 
just unplug it from the little black box, takes 5 minutes and then just stays open the whole time, no remap needed.
 
What's the exhaust sound like with the flap open all the time compared to normal?

I've been spraying mine with GT85/ACF50 since i bought the bike and the flaps working fine although its just a matter of time before the flap siezes if i ride it through the crappy winter.
 
Exhaust flap

I had the same issue with my 2010 GS. It was about 6 weeks out of warranty when it was discovered. After a little persuasion BMW replaced it as a good will gesture. Get on the phone!!!
 
We used to use an industrial strength oven cleaner solution (stolen from the ships cooks) on the Deltic exhaust shut off flaps on minesweepers and the exhaust flap on the rover gas turbine fire pumps to clean them up. They were often jammed solid through carbon build up.

Perhaps a soak in oven pride or similar will unclog the carbon deposits and free up the valve ?? It works wonders when the wife cleans the oven with it.

Never tried it myself so obviously its at your own risk, but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
 
Household cleaners often get ignored but can do a good job. Cillit Bang is good on stainless steel.

Another option is to sink the part in diesel fuel and soak for a week. When done, filter the fuel and put it in the car.

Edit - Not so handy if its a petrol car :o
 
Has this issue been resolved on the later-model bikes?

-----------------------end of threadjack-----------------------------------
 
Has this issue been resolved on the later-model bikes?

-----------------------end of threadjack-----------------------------------

Don't know what has changed, but after having two replacement flappy valves in short order (FOC under warranty) within the first few thousand miles, the latest one is still working fine after another 10k+ miles. Of course, the fact that I have posted this comment now means the thing will seize solid any time now...
 
Mine has been fine since it was heated to a reasonably high temp. and graphited oil dropped in.
I did that twice when it was off the bike and it's been fine for over a year. Idea being that the oil will evaporate with the heat of running the motor but the tiny graphite particles keep it moving smoothly.
It's meant for oilite type porous bearings in small electric motors. About £4.00 on the 'bay.
 
I suspect so. Recorded in the data will be the code that the exhaust valve is inoperative. If that's the case you're not getting the best out the bike. Has that not been mentioned at Servicing?
 
Just had the motor on mine swapped under warrenty, valve seemed to be working fine when running with exhaust off (only for testing purposes of course) but when the motor was changed it did produce a marked difference in the running of the bike. The valve itself is fine so far, but gets lubed regularly as force of habit having owned a fazer 1000 with the dreaded EXUP.

If the dealer option fails, take apart and clean, then lube with suitable grease, I just use high temp. :thumb
 
Turn ignition off, back on, noise has gone. Am I missing something. 2010 model, has done this since new.:blast

Yup, 'fraid so. Noise used to go (after servo motor cycled the exhaust flap), then it became continuous as the servo was trying to move the valve that had seized. Now I've manually forced the valve fully open the servo doesn't seem to bothered and does try to to cycle it - or the servo is knackered now as well as the valve.
 


Back
Top Bottom