Sticking exhaust butterfly valve

[Alan R]

Where did you get that info from? I heard it was purely to get around the noise rules. Plus some folks have removed it and not noticed any difference, which makes me doubt what you are saying. I think you will find that the exhaust flap thing reduces noise, and as a by product, causes a torque reduction too.

Wunderlich sell a tube to allow removal: http://www.wunderlich-bmw.com/shopa...Wunderlich-exhaust-flap-remover-from-2010.htm

Correct, it's not a power valve. It's there to dampen the exhaust noise at low revs. It may as a by product alter mid range torque but its primary purpose is to kill db's - my mate's HD fat boy has one. Imagine - a HD power valve, ridiculous!
Alan R

 

[Arfamow]

If I had such a bike I'd rip it out in a heartbeat. How crazy of bumwee to put a mechanical device into such a harsh environment.
Failure is the only possible outcome. Any attempt to keep the valve working will be a lifetime labour of love. Bin it.

Ok, Ok, thanks everyone for the input.

I'm going to reach a compromise here. Yes I will be removing the flappy valvey thingy. Yes I will pay young Mr N Norman over the odds for a couple of inches of stainless tube.

I will then make it my life's work to get the original working again - I'm quite stubborn like that. Yes I'll be doing it just for the sake of it, yes it's not worth it and yes it's a waste of time, but I like a challenge!

 

[Cooky]

My 2010 has been doing this for the last year or so. I mentioned it to the dealer a couple of days ago when getting some new tyres fitted and he said that it was meant to do that as it was the flap calibrating itself before start up and that I wasn't the first to mention it. I couldn't be bothered to start a debate with him about why it never used to do that. He's the kind of bloke who interrupts you before you finish a sentence and then says "they all do that" i.e. he's fully up to date on his BMW training schedule.

 

[Pukmeister]

You get your tyres from a BM dealer who you don't even like? Surely not the best thing to do for several reasons eg tyres are usually cheaper elsewhere, and why give them your custom if you aren't a satisfied customer?

 

[ghost-rider]

My 2010 has been doing this for the last year or so. I mentioned it to the dealer a couple of days ago when getting some new tyres fitted and he said that it was meant to do that as it was the flap calibrating itself before start up and that I wasn't the first to mention it. I couldn't be bothered to start a debate with him about why it never used to do that. He's the kind of bloke who interrupts you before you finish a sentence and then says "they all do that" i.e. he's fully up to date on his BMW training schedule.

This is actually correct, the ecu does a check when turning the ignition on, which is why when removing the valve and cables you must leave the servo plugged in and in place so the ecu thinks its still there, i had a 2008 yamaha fz1s that had exactly the same thing, and when fitting a new can you have no choice but do the above because the valve is part of the oem exhaust, like i say remove the cables aswell but leave the servo plugged in, just for the ecu, and jobs a gud un! Which will be exactly the same scenario with the bm valve!

 

[WindyChuffer]

So if you remove the lot, the bike still works right? So why leave the servo there? Confused.

 

[ghost-rider]

So if you remove the lot, the bike still works right? So why leave the servo there? Confused.

As i said above mate, the ecu does a cycle of the servo upon turnin on the ignition, so unless you remove the servo or leave it unplugged, the ecu sees no problem! But you can remove the cables, valve etc. Without problem, aslong as you stick to the above, and for what its worth it yamaha also put the valve in for noise regs not power etc

 

[WindyChuffer]

You are missing my point. So what if the ecu sees a problem? What happens in the event of a servo problem? Bike still works fine?

 

[ghost-rider]

You are missing my point. So what if the ecu sees a problem? What happens in the event of a servo problem? Bike still works fine?

Cant speak for bm, but with my fz1 it would show up as a fault code, but wud still run fine, but to be honest, i wudnt like to never say never but ive never come across servo problems its always been the valves that fook up, something else aswell is on the later yamahas the servo wud cycle on start up, but the valve flap was always set to wide open and in all the time i owned that bike whilst it was on the standard can i n ever saw the
valve move! And i know quite a few peeps who sed the same, the rumour was the later bikes had them for show, due to noise regs etc.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Precisely. Who gives a fuck about a fault code if it doesnt affect operation of the bike. Rip the entire shite out and bin it. Its only there to pass a silly eu noise test.

 

[ghost-rider]

Precisely. Who gives a fuck about a fault code if it doesnt affect operation of the bike. Rip the entire shite out and bin it. Its only there to pass a silly eu noise test.

U got it mate

 

[BuzzTree]

Mines in at Calterdon in Inverness today. I have been quoted 199.00 for a replacement. I've told them to leave it and will look in to disconnecting it when I get it home!

£200 ffs!

 

[stigboots]

Removed mine an fitted the decatted headers and akra can off me old 2009. just removed the flap valve n cables and left the electronic unit connected still in place ! ECU has no idea its missing !

 

[cookie]

had mine replaced under warranty recently, it was beyond un-seizing, and i did try quite hard.

if this one goes out of warranty, i'll just make sure the butterfly open (or knock it out), then remove the cables so as not to bollox the servo.

 

[Delboy777]

http://www.wunderlich.de/shop/bmw-r-serie/r-1200-gs-adventure/tuning/auspuffanlagen.html

 

[Bendy toy]

For a bit of stainless tube, that price is seriously extracting the wee.

 

[adventuredon]

Bike was in for a different issue but, mine has now stuck. 2010, Out of warranty, but in extended warranty. Extended warranty doe not cover it. Dealer wants £300 to replace and is not interested in repairing it. Dealer also not interested in goodwill. Will try repair it myself when have time next and space to work. Yes can remove it, but on 3 year old bike, if it was there and working when bought, I'll prefer my bike with it and working!

 

[cookie]

Bike was in for a different issue but, mine has now stuck. 2010, Out of warranty, but in extended warranty. Extended warranty doe not cover it. Dealer wants £300 to replace and is not interested in repairing it. Dealer also not interested in goodwill. Will try repair it myself when have time next and space to work. Yes can remove it, but on 3 year old bike, if it was there and working when bought, I'll prefer my bike with it and working!

if it were me, i'd disconnect the cables before the servo dies trying to shift the stuck valve.

 

[Roymondo]

Mine (2011 GSA) has already had two replacement valves under warranty, and I have freed it off myself a couple of times as well. It has seized again. Bike is still just in warranty, and is in for the second time to have a slipping clutch fixed (new clutch 12 months ago) but I really can't be bothered to get the valve done again. Yes, I can feel a small difference in mid-range pull, but it really is "small".

Also the (extra cost) chromed downpipes have corroded to buggery. And the rear brake caliper has partially seized for the second time. And the paint/coating is flaking off one of the fork lowers big-time. Likewise the paint on the rear frame tubes. Cam covers were replaced FOC due to metal cancer

It's all a bit crap really - I've only ever owned four brand new bikes in my life and this one has been the worst for stuff going wrong. Dealer has been superb throughout, but I think the honeymoon is over for me and BMW, which is a crying shame.

By contrast, my cheap'n'cheerful Citroen was bought new in 2009, also lives outside and simply keeps running perfectly without anything ever going wrong or requiring attention (it has only been serviced *once* in over three years - that's all the manufacturer specifies).

 

[The Nutter]

Can anybody advise as to how much this valve moves when it calibrates when the ignition is switched on. As mine was still making a constant pulse like buzzing with the ignition on I removed the silencer to see what was happening. Ignition off, valve wide open, ignition on the valve closes a little (not completely) and then opens again. If I assist the valve with a finger as I switch on the ignition it will shut completely before re-opening. It did feel a little stiff and it felt like the return spring is having little effect on it.

Thanks