Tank Removal

Heston Service

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I want to permanantly wire my gps power cable into the bike but I'm scared to take the tank off. I always seem to make a mess of that sort of thing.

How difficult is it? Any tips?
 
tips

its easy..

one bolt..
pop off blask plastic panel on side remove bold, its fiddely,

then remember to just move the tank carefully..

NB... fuel lines don't let you take it off completly, but you can move it forward a few inches easily and that will give you access to the battery..

one tip.. do it when your tank is nearly empty.. its heavy when its full..

if you want you can take it off completly and put on quick release clips for future use then it takes about 5 mins to remove the tank completly.. thats a bigger job but once done you can take the top off at your leisure

regards

pthagonal
 
Get yout tank-top off!!!

Dear Mr. Services,
I'll get it off for you and show you the score with wiring of all types.
I live in Teddington so if you want to swing by some evening and we can go thru the ordeal and then you'll know all...
Give me a shout to arrange.
Pat.
07796130343
 
It really isn't too difficult. He's what I'd do:

  1. Run the bike until it is as low on fuel as you dare
  2. Park the bike on centre stand and remove seat
  3. Remove r/h plastic panel (just pull - it's held on with three rubber do-hickeys)
  4. Whilst you're there, disconnect the electrics by squeezing plug and pulling apart
  5. Disconnect the two breather pipes (just pull apart at joint)
  6. Disconnect the two fuel pipes that connect to PLASTIC tubes behind r/h injector. Twist hose first to break 'seal', then hold the plastic pipe whilst pulling the rubber. Be prepared to catch some fuel if your tank is not close to empty
  7. Using Allen key, remove the single mounting bolt at rear of tank. Be careful - the nut is not 'captive', so slide your fingers behind it as you undo the bolt
  8. Carefully lift tank and put somewhere where you won't trip over it
  9. Assemble in reverse order

    :hammer

    Greg
    [/list=1]
 
Why bother faffing about taking the tank off. I wired mine to the rear of the accessory socket. A standard Garmin cable is plenty long enough.
Works for me!!!!
 
Bumble Bee said:
Why bother faffing about taking the tank off. I wired mine to the rear of the accessory socket. A standard Garmin cable is plenty long enough.
Works for me!!!!
I take it that you have the Garmin Cable directly fed off the back of the auxillary socket, (unfused), right through to your GPS. Can I ask (if I'm assuming correctly). how you protect the 4 pin connector when you don't have your GPS mounted.
Or am I talking twaddle.........

AndyT:confused:
 
HS

Greg's step-by-step is good. Only two things I'd add:

1. There are 2 hoses (obvious), each in 2 parts. Once you pull them apart, you might get them muddled which would be Not a Good Thing. Put a piece of duct tape or whatever round each 'element' of one of the hoses and then you'll know that the taped ones go together.

2. You can get a lot of fuel flowing out unless tank is very nearly empty. Bend the spilling hose back on itself and zip tie while the tank's off.

It really is simple. Hell, even I can do it.

Jol
 
Buy a couple of QD connectors for the fuel lines. Your friendly BMW dealer should be able to supply these (they are standard fitment on the Adv and, for all I know, on the std GS now). You can probably source these cheaper elsewhere (Bracken, Motorworks etc).

Top Tip 1 - when fitting these, don't fit them both the same distance up the fuel pipe - that way there will be no confusion which connector fits to which when you replace the tank. Once you've fitted QD connectors the removal & re-fitting of the tank becomes a 2 minute job.

Top Tip 2 - run the tank nearly empty before removal, it's surprisingly heavy & unwieldy to move about when full.....


MikeO:)
 
I know what....

Give General Franks a call, he's experienced at removing tanks!
 
Easy route !

There is an easier option, i found the standard Garmin lead is plenty long anoth to be fed down under the tank (without removing it) i then used an inline fuse and spliced the live supply into the feed to the rear brake light on the right hand side of the seat and connected the neutral via a ring connecter to one of the seat brackets.
Regards
Gary.:beerjug:
 
Easy but..............
On the frame bracket, there is a rubber spacer with two flat metal washers one of which which can drop out and be missed on the refit.
Got the T shirt !
 
Thank you all for the advice.

I'm possibly even more frightened now but will try taking off the side cover and see where I get from there.

I'm trained as an electrician but any other type of work always scares the hell out of me (you should see the state of the plumbing in our house - one day Mrs Services will truly kill me).

Pat - thanks so much for the offer. I'm going to try on my own and will then almost certainly call you!!!

Many thanks again - Rob.
 


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