Telelever Ball Joint

[littleredrooster]

OK - I need to replace my ball joint 'cos it feels more and more like shagged head bearings: notchy like you wouldn't believe at low speeds - "Is this a one notch roundabout or a two notch".....

Any good hints and tips? Wot do you use to undo the thing from the telelever (46mm? - socket's probably no use on summat with a thin head like this).

Do you REALLY have to take the entire fork bridge off the bike?

Thanks in anticipation, chaps.....

 

[Panzer Patrol]

C'mon you lot, SOMEONE must have replaced one

Give the guy some help

 

[Deleted Member MM]

OK - I need to replace my ball joint


Surprised it's worn out

Wish I could help.... maybe BFI will win the day

 

[Deadskin]

When i took the bridge off to polish it ,
i tried in vain to undo that friggin nut

stick an allen key in the top and with a ring spanner check
it's not loose

 

[littleredrooster]

....stick an allen key in the top and with a ring spanner check
it's not loose....

Bin there, done that. The prognosis is not good....

.... maybe BFI will win the day...

It's all I'm good at....

 

[Panzer Patrol]

Just had a thought, how about contacting Motorworks to see if the have a secondhand bottom yolk complete with ball joint. Save all the f***ing about trying to get the old one out.

 

[littleredrooster]

Just had a thought, how about contacting Motorworks to see if the have a secondhand bottom yolk complete with ball joint. Save all the f***ing about trying to get the old one out.

That wuz my first thought when I ordered it from them. Unfortunately, all of the S/H ones in stock have at least one broken bolt/stud in them. They reckon that you can't take them off the bike without breaking something, usually one of the small bolts which secures the brake-pipe bracket thingy.

I thought SOMEBODY out there might have tried this. Am I the pathfinder, then??

 

[Swesty]

I have a 46mm combie spanner if you need it. Doddle of a job even if you decide to remove telelever, I did mine and changed the bearings (4off) in less than 2 hours (??? pints).

 

[MikeO]

Don't you have to heat it??

Mike

 

[littleredrooster]

I have a 46mm combie spanner if you need it. Doddle of a job even if you decide to remove telelever, I did mine and changed the bearings (4off) in less than 2 hours (??? pints).

Ha! You may not have heard the last of this - St Ives isn't very far away, you know!! Might have to have a ride across to you and borrow the spanner, if I may.

And yes, MikeO, I'm sure it needs heat. Everything on the bike needs heat, it seems.........

 

[Frank Warner]

Heat? Not 'ere. Just park the bike in the sun on a warm summers day (over 35 C in the shade) and even air head gear boxes come apart or go together without any more heat. Of course you do consume more amber fluid to balance the books.

I'd have thought those ball joints were one large ball - no notching to be had?

 

[Keith Chapman]

I thought that the Ball joint to fork bridge had a huge torque setting, 250nm?? and the ball joint to telelever was 170nm??

I could be wrong but there is probably some locktite in there too.
BMW do a special tool to fit the ball joint, check the CD manual.

 

[Jim McSharry]

The 'Bike Doc' (seen on Men & Motors every now and then) took one of these into a powder coating place I happened to be in at the time - wanted the nut removing prior to coating the brace - told to take it to his local dealers as they had the spanner required for the job.

I'll be taking mine off in winter to get it coated up and know where I'll be taking it - even if it costs a few quid to take off/put back on surely it has to be worth it rather than totally knacking it?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

It's a pig. The torque setting is 230NM and the treads are coated with never seize. If the bridge is off the bike you will have to clamp it in some thing solid to apply that excessive amount of torgue to undo it. You run the risk of damaging the fork bridge. Bite the bullet and take the fork bridge to your local dealer and get them to do it. They have all the special tools and with the bridge off the bike you have done most of the expensive labour. At least the part and work will be covered by BMW warranty.

 

[littleredrooster]

.....and the treads are coated with never seize.....

...Not Loctite??? That'll make the job easier!

 

[skywalker]

Now i said i 'd never get involved again on this web site but i can't bear to see some one struggle
Remove plastic cap covering ball joint nut
Warm up the nut to break the LOCTITE sealant
Insert allen key into top of ball joint to hold it then remove nut using a 21mm spanner
Unbolt brake line from mount bracket and unbolt calipers from fork legs
Ease complete assembly down a bit until u can access the 46mm nut part of the ball joint with your socket
Reassemble the new ball joint with coppa slip on the part that screws into the fork bridge and torque to 230nM
undo the vent screws in the top of the fork legs and slid the assembly back into position.Tighten vent screws
Apply high strength loctite (not the blue stuff) to the threads of the ball joint and tighten nut to 130nM
Reassemble remaining items