The bike stuttered and died on the way to work..

[Steve the Kiwi]

Had some drama riding the 1100GS to work this morning. The bike cut out and died. It started no problem (rode down to Gent (260km return) yesterday so the battery had plenty of charge) I rode maybe 3 km with the bike going fine. I stopped at traffic lights and when I let the clutch out to ride off the bike stalled. It started again fine then I rode another 100m, it started stuttering and cutting out and then died when put a bit of power on. I started it again and it died again straight away, started again then died and then wont start at all. The starter motor turns over strongly but no ignition. I can here the fuel pump working. The way it stuttered etc it sounded like fuel starvation?? At first I thought about the fuel lines being trapped after we had the tank off last weekend, but that doesn’t make sense as I rode back from Belguim 85 km ( i then didn't ride it for a week of snow) then down to Gent and back at 130km/h + with the bike running it's normal sweet self. and she wasn't missing a beat up unitl she spat the dummy. so there was plenty of fuel going through….. When I get home I’ll get the tank off and check the lines etc to be sure. Maybe fuel filter? ( and there's 2/3 of a tank of fuel )<o></o>
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<o>I've had the bike for 6 months and aprt from a tank breather issue (cured) has ran like a dream for 13,000km</o>
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Some tips or direction on where to look would be appeciated

Community message; As tempting as it might first seem, Pushing your German tractor several kilometres is not as fun as riding it. To test this further, thinking that pushing it on an ice covered foot path would bring more joy and enlightenment; It did not. Please keep in mind the test was not exhaustive as testing was done in Holland with a lack of suitable hills to push the machine up. This may in fact be the key to fully enjoying your trusty iron stead. Though i suspect that this like the other methods already tested would quickly bring the onset of displeasure and will likely result in the sale of your bike.

 

[davegs]

Cuttingout

Make sure the breather isent blocked, undo the filler cap and see if you hear a rush of air. Check fuel filter copuld be it's never been touched and is full of muck, or a hose has come off inside the tank. And make sure the fuel pump IS working normally. If you can get it running do try the filler cap.
Dave gs.

 

[Steve the Kiwi]

Cheers Dave. There' no suction so the breather is working. ( this was one of the reasons for having the tank off; the breather was completely blocked, but some compressed air and a bit of wire shoved up fixed that) Could this have damaged something?

The bike was really well sorted from the previous owner (mechanic) So I'd say (guess) the filter has already been changed ( had 46,000km on the clock when i got her) but I've one at home so I'll change it over.

 

[Trippy]

There' no suction so the breather is working. this was one of the reasons for having the tank off; the breather was completely blocked

Water in the tank as a result of the above.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

the connector block loose under the tank when you took it off ?

 

[Womble]

If you rotate the rear wheel, can you hear the fuel pump?

Do a search on here for 'Hall Sensor' as it does sound like it might be that.

 

[MMC]

Do a search on here for 'Hall Sensor' as it does sound like it might be that.

The symptoms you describe are exactly the same as my bike's a few weeks ago. It was indeed the hall sensor. When it's about to go it does just as you described.

At least it's a cheap and easy fix

 

[Steve the Kiwi]

Thanks Guys, Very helpful. After my bike sounds alot like Forry's in his first video http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150798&page=3 I'l have a crack at the back wheel turn trick. I'm guessing 5th gear would be the best?

 

[MattW]

I'l have a crack at the back wheel turn trick. I'm guessing 5th gear would be the best?

Yep, 5th gives you best mechanical advantage when spinning it over using the wheel (obviously you'll have to pull the spark plugs)

 

[Steve the Kiwi]

mech noob treading carefully...

Well I finally mangaed to get a look at the bike and I've turn the the engine over with the Alternator pulley and sure enough the fuel pump kicks on in the engine cycle......
Does this mean the Hall Sensor is working? I've got a replacement Hall Sensor here but thought I'd check before going any futher...

Now that it's been sitting there for a week ...Trying to start it ( before i removed the plugs) and the engine kind starts.... there's ignition and starts but not completely if that makes sense.
Before all this happen i replaced the plugs, they are carbon fouled. They've only been in for maybe 300km..Is this because of the engine problems? (the engine stalling and repeated attempts at re-starting?)

Also I'd notice no strange behavour with the tacho. The ABS was a bit of a problem on start up for the last few months but i put that down to short 6 mile runs to work every day with no night chargeing ie low battery charge. It always started with no issue.

I've no idea if the new plugs could play a part or if the Hall Sensor is still the main suspect?
I'm being cautious because to be honest this is the biggest thing mechanicly I've tryed without adult supervison.....

New NGK's on the left...

 

[Steve the Kiwi]

result!

The Hall Sensor call seams to be right on the button.... I got a reconditioned HES for 75 eur. I replaced it without any cursing and bother...2 spanner rating for the clueless non-mechanic
I printed off a few pages off hear and ADV rider, along side the Clymers...sorted
I rode it for 20km with at least half of that at 5 bars; Running sweet no more riding the bicycle to work!