The LED headlight glass.

Coming home from Hunstanton yesterday I spent 3 hours in the rain and wind.

There were very few bikes out and the ones I did see on the A17 were Gs's! (nice one guys!).
You could CLEARLY see that the LED lights were brighter than their predecessors - the weather was raining very hard, almost sideways and the sky was dark to give you an idea. Being seen was crucially important.

I dont get the bad comments about it, forgetting the cost, the fact that it made the bikes easier to see coming toward me can only be a great thing. - And dont many of you go and spend a lot of money on those auxulliary lights too?

On another note - I still cant believe how many twats don't put ANY lights on in bad conditions...
 
It's NOT glass its plastic :rob

Yup - polycarbonate, to be precise.
If BMW have made it fromn Lexan, which is a sub-type of polycarbonate, then it will quite literally be bulletproof. By my guess, at least to .22LR. Lexan is the same stuff used to make police riot shields and bulletproof windscreens.
 
By the way, it IS possible to remove the headlight lens from the light cluster - and here is the proof.

It's not something I'd recommend for light entertainment.
 

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By the way, it IS possible to remove the headlight lens from the light cluster - and here is the proof.

It's not something I'd recommend for light entertainment.

I love it when someone says something is not possible, then hey presto someone says yes you can and here's the proof Brilliant.
PS I had the standard lights on my 2014 and have the LED on my GSA give me the LED any day it's very good. I've got them on my car too

Terry
 
I agree the light is top quality. Almost as good as the old twin lights from the GSXR. The spread of the drip is very good and perfectly even. The high beam is a little too narrow in focus but that gives me an excuse for some spot lights :thumb2

I like the look of these. I was thinking to fit them to the engine bars.

Look good, where to purchase please...
 
By the way, it IS possible to remove the headlight lens from the light cluster - and here is the proof.

It's not something I'd recommend for light entertainment.

Lol, top man!
You just shushed the 'I think you will find its a sealed unit' fella.

Just need to find a dealer willing to supply the part and it's job done.

We'll done again Nick :thumby:
 
Lol, top man!
You just shushed the 'I think you will find its a sealed unit' fella.

Just need to find a dealer willing to supply the part and it's job done.

We'll done again Nick :thumby:

But WHY would you want to take it apart in the first place as it will not brake anyhow!

AS Nick V quotes:
Yup - polycarbonate, to be precise.
If BMW have made it fromn Lexan, which is a sub-type of polycarbonate, then it will quite literally be bulletproof. By my guess, at least to .22LR. Lexan is the same stuff used to make police riot shields and bulletproof windscreens.
 
Yep and normal H4 bulbs seem just as good

I actually think the new GS WC with LED, isn't that distinctive and bright when you see one coming towards you

If you see a new GS WC in a gaggle of oncoming bikes, then some of the other bikes with normal lights, are just as visible



Just my take, that's all:D

Carry on:thumb2

What rubbish ..... The led light is a lot brighter ... I have just come back from a Scotland trip with a load of guys on GS's, mixed bag of LC 's and TC 's some with Hid conversions too. The Led lights were much brighter and more noticeable on the road. I guess that's why BMW developed them over the the more traditional H4 candles !! :rolleyes:
 
What rubbish ..... The led light is a lot brighter ... I have just come back from a Scotland trip with a load of guys on GS's, mixed bag of LC 's and TC 's some with Hid conversions too. The Led lights were much brighter and more noticeable on the road. I guess that's why BMW developed them over the the more traditional H4 candles !! :rolleyes:

JB's eyesight isn't very good!:P
 
But WHY would you want to take it apart in the first place as it will not brake anyhow!

AS Nick V quotes:
Yup - polycarbonate, to be precise.
If BMW have made it fromn Lexan, which is a sub-type of polycarbonate, then it will quite literally be bulletproof. By my guess, at least to .22LR. Lexan is the same stuff used to make police riot shields and bulletproof windscreens.

I was poking around in there trying to find some kind of electrical output I could use as a trigger for an additional LED spotlight cluster.
I want to wire said cluster so I have exactly the same action as all my previous bikes: spotlights activate in conjunction with high beams.
So far, no joy... Four wires connect the main input plug and LED power convertor (1: constant 12.2V, 2: constant 12.2V, 3: constant 9.5V, 4: Earth). Eleven wires connect the power convertor and the actual LED cluster, and not one seems to have a variable signal that sets it apart as a trigger wire for the main beam. :mad:

You're definitely not going to find the lens separately - the light cluster is sold as a complete unit.
 
Yup - polycarbonate, to be precise.
If BMW have made it fromn Lexan, which is a sub-type of polycarbonate, then it will quite literally be bulletproof. By my guess, at least to .22LR. Lexan is the same stuff used to make police riot shields and bulletproof windscreens.

Dude, I'm still waiting for the results of the ballistic tests. Maybe staring with the .22 and working up through the .30-06 and on to the old NATO favourite 7.62mm. Come on now open up that gun cabinet :mcgun
 
Brilliant NickV : at last someone has proof to verify removal of the front cover .
 
Brilliant NickV : at last someone has proof to verify removal of the front cover .

:thumb2
It's more of a 'Pain in the ass' than 'Difficult'. You need to use a knife with a long, narrow and very sharp blade, inserting it between the lens and the black plastic housing from a frontward direction. Then, very carefully use a 'sawing' motion to cut the polyurethane sealant.
There will be some areas where you can't 'saw' through because there are locating lugs in the way, but a little bit of careful persuasion with a flat-bladed screwdriver will help.

Putting the lens back is the tricky bit. That light housing is stuffed to the gills with micro-electronics, so DON'T use an acid-based silicone sealant. Use a silicone sealant that's advertised as 'sensor safe'.
Anything with acetic acid in it will corrode the electronics, turning an expensive adventure into an expensive mistake. :eek:
 
I was poking around in there trying to find some kind of electrical output I could use as a trigger for an additional LED spotlight cluster.
I want to wire said cluster so I have exactly the same action as all my previous bikes: spotlights activate in conjunction with high beams.
So far, no joy... Four wires connect the main input plug and LED power convertor (1: constant 12.2V, 2: constant 12.2V, 3: constant 9.5V, 4: Earth). Eleven wires connect the power convertor and the actual LED cluster, and not one seems to have a variable signal that sets it apart as a trigger wire for the main beam. :mad:
Clearwater lights
Have a device called can opener which lets there led lights go on 100% when you put on main beam

http://www.clearwaterlights.co.uk

I have a pair of Darla's
But I have not fitted them yet

Greetings Emile
 


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