Also undo the nuts once or twice a year, or every major service and use copperslip etc, and they'll never seize.
The predictably seized exhaust studs
- Thread starter SecretSquirrel
- Start date
Also undo the nuts once or twice a year, or every major service and use copperslip etc, and they'll never seize.
You might consider using brass nuts when you rebuild.
Greg
Greg
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
I'll take your source some replacement stainless studs and brass nuts. I don't want to go through this pain again.
I've not had the best introduction to BMW ownership.
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
Clutch assembly
A quick question which Steptoe might be able to answer very easily.
When I removed the gearbox and clutch, I didn't know that I should mark the various clutch bits first.
On re-assembly, I looked for manufacturers marks to set at 120deg, but couldn't find any?
I noted in my recently purchased Haynes manual (bought after stripping the bike!), that the clutch assembly is balanced at the factory and if put back together in a different way, it could vibrate like hell.
Any experience anyone, or do most clutches go back as they should?
A quick question which Steptoe might be able to answer very easily.
When I removed the gearbox and clutch, I didn't know that I should mark the various clutch bits first.
On re-assembly, I looked for manufacturers marks to set at 120deg, but couldn't find any?
I noted in my recently purchased Haynes manual (bought after stripping the bike!), that the clutch assembly is balanced at the factory and if put back together in a different way, it could vibrate like hell.
Any experience anyone, or do most clutches go back as they should?
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
As an update, I've found these on EBay that look suitable as replacement exhaust studs.
Stainless M8 and 40mm long with nuts, washers and locking washer. People might find this useful?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380041096314
I have actually purchased a 1 metre length of s/s M8 threaded bar to cut to length and a big bag of copper nuts all for a tenner.
Stainless M8 and 40mm long with nuts, washers and locking washer. People might find this useful?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380041096314
I have actually purchased a 1 metre length of s/s M8 threaded bar to cut to length and a big bag of copper nuts all for a tenner.
I had some exact copy 1150 exhaust nuts specially made in stainless for my stainless kits.
A quick question which Steptoe might be able to answer very easily.
When I removed the gearbox and clutch, I didn't know that I should mark the various clutch bits first.
On re-assembly, I looked for manufacturers marks to set at 120deg, but couldn't find any?
I noted in my recently purchased Haynes manual (bought after stripping the bike!), that the clutch assembly is balanced at the factory and if put back together in a different way, it could vibrate like hell.
Any experience anyone, or do most clutches go back as they should?
Don't lose any sleep over it. You'll find that on most of the clutches on bikes from the factory the marks aren't lined up.
The clutch covers are balanced individually, look at the milling marks on the metal.
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
Well, it's time to re-fit the tank and connect the battery to see what damage I've done.Don't lose any sleep over it. You'll find that on most of the clutches on bikes from the factory the marks aren't lined up.
The clutch covers are balanced individually, look at the milling marks on the metal.
Fingers crossed it will start ok and will not vibrate itself across the garage floor.
Thanks for your words of comfort Steptoe.
I know the workings of the GS a lot better than when I started the gearbox removal back in June.
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
Well, start the engine time arrived and .... it doesn't!
Turns over fine, smell of petrol from the exhaust, but doesn't fire.
I'll have to try a spare plug to see if there's a spark.
I'm worried now that I've fried something welding nuts onto exhaust studs.
I did disconnect most things ... honest!
Turns over fine, smell of petrol from the exhaust, but doesn't fire.
I'll have to try a spare plug to see if there's a spark.
I'm worried now that I've fried something welding nuts onto exhaust studs.
I did disconnect most things ... honest!
The RHS throttle cable is seated correctly?
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
Yep, I've been caught out by that before
I hadn't connected the plug from the petrol tank doh!!!
It's running beautifully now.
Thanks for the suggestion Boxer.
SecretSquirrel
Registered user
Don't lose any sleep over it. You'll find that on most of the clutches on bikes from the factory the marks aren't lined up.
The clutch covers are balanced individually, look at the milling marks on the metal.
Good advice Steptoe. On a short test run just know, the engine was smoother than before the input drive shaft failure.
Faith in my mechanical abilities and a little in German engineering has been restored.
time
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