Third Gear woes

roundincircles

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The gearbox does not want to change up into third gear until the oil is warm or it's travelled a couple of hundred metres down the road. The gear lever hits a solid wall, so I try clutchless, back off the throttle or swear at it, and it sometimes obliges. Once warm it's not an issue.

Is this a common trait? The bike has covered 5000 miles.
 
The gearbox does not want to change up into third gear until the oil is warm or it's travelled a couple of hundred metres down the road. The gear lever hits a solid wall, so I try clutchless, back off the throttle or swear at it, and it sometimes obliges. Once warm it's not an issue.

Is this a common trait? The bike has covered 5000 miles.
Have you tried different boots?
Seriously, its worth a try before you get too excited, as a different boot can give a different pivot point.
A cheap option.
 
Have you tried different boots?
Seriously, its worth a try before you get too excited, as a different boot can give a different pivot point.
A cheap option.
LoL. That's a left field option....a new one on me. Thanks for the infoot.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Bem
The gearbox does not want to change up into third gear until the oil is warm or it's travelled a couple of hundred metres down the road. The gear lever hits a solid wall, so I try clutchless, back off the throttle or swear at it, and it sometimes obliges. Once warm it's not an issue.

Is this a common trait? The bike has covered 5000 miles.


do an oil change if it doesn't instantly go normal - go back under warranty and get them to fix it


basic reasons it might be playing up - are you running bike spec engine oil (Jaso MA2). On the older bikes with a separate box you could use car oil in the engine - but integral boxes must have oil designed to cope, with additives to reduce the damage the gears do cutting up the molecule chains - and of course a secondary element helps wet plate clutches cope

even with MA2, long drain intervals mean the oil will be heavily worn out - the idea wears the bike out, but it should last enough to get past any warranty claims - do a 4k change and have a better bike, nicer gear changes and help it last longer - aside from deliberately inducing wear it gets "cheaper servicing costs" on the marketing blurb for fools to lap up

if running car oils in a bike box - expect the oil to be well past its best at 500 miles and gear changes to get nasty rough and recalcitrant

note quick shifters usually add a lot of wear and damage vs appropriate use of the throttle and clutch - another trick they have all introduced to sell bikes
 
do an oil change if it doesn't instantly go normal - go back under warranty and get them to fix it


basic reasons it might be playing up - are you running bike spec engine oil (Jaso MA2). On the older bikes with a separate box you could use car oil in the engine - but integral boxes must have oil designed to cope, with additives to reduce the damage the gears do cutting up the molecule chains - and of course a secondary element helps wet plate clutches cope

even with MA2, long drain intervals mean the oil will be heavily worn out - the idea wears the bike out, but it should last enough to get past any warranty claims - do a 4k change and have a better bike, nicer gear changes and help it last longer - aside from deliberately inducing wear it gets "cheaper servicing costs" on the marketing blurb for fools to lap up

if running car oils in a bike box - expect the oil to be well past its best at 500 miles and gear changes to get nasty rough and recalcitrant

note quick shifters usually add a lot of wear and damage vs appropriate use of the throttle and clutch - another trick they have all introduced to sell bikes
Oil just changed but I will run interference with the dealer service team, who are very good at dealing with issues as they have lots of experience!
 
Oil just changed but I will run interference with the dealer service team, who are very good at dealing with issues as they have lots of experience!
This is absolutely nothing to do with oil. there could be an issue with the selector mechanism
 
so long as you use oil to the specification in the owners manual - you could do it everyday - it has no impact on warranty or servicing conditions

dealers lie and like to pretend only their sacked McDonald's burger flippers technicians should wreck your bike

forgot this one - not sure what they released it for the R1300 but they did - april 2024 a document explaining sometimes reset of shift assist can get a muddle on and shift assist doesn't behave correctly
 
so long as you use oil to the specification in the owners manual - you could do it everyday - it has no impact on warranty or servicing conditions

dealers lie and like to pretend only their sacked McDonald's burger flippers technicians should wreck your bike

forgot this one - not sure what they released it for the R1300 but they did - april 2024 a document explaining sometimes reset of shift assist can get a muddle on and shift assist doesn't behave correctly
complete nonsense.
 
Hang on to your gears longer,you don't need to be in third until you're doing 60mph.
Problem solved.
 


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