This is brill stuff

Nah.:D Cake it on, and use an old T shirt, as long a length as possible, then grab each end, loop it round the exhaust and pull away!:eek::thumb

I tried that method on mine. Have to say I ended up covered in cuts, bruises and grazed knuckles. It it best to remove the old t shirt first?!
 
Chrome is magnetic so a magnet will stick to a chromed stainless pipe.

Mike

Well Mike, the chrome they used on mine isn't magnetic :augie

OK...Pure chrome is everso slightly magnetic (as is some stainless steel), but usually what you feel "pulling" is the carbon steel under the plating.
 
Well Mike, the chrome they used on mine isn't magnetic :augie

OK...Pure chrome is everso slightly magnetic (as is some stainless steel), but usually what you feel "pulling" is the carbon steel under the plating.

:robJust checked mine, and I stand corrected:blast

You learn something new every day!

Cheers :thumb2


Mike
 
Naturally I need to get a life

is commonly stated that “stainless steel is non-magnetic”. This is not strictly true and the real situation is rather more complicated. The degree of magnetic response or magnetic permeability is derived from the microstructure of the steel. A totally non-magnetic material has a relative magnetic permeability of 1. Austenitic structures are totally non-magnetic and so a 100% austenitic stainless steel would have a permeability of 1. In practice this is not achieved. There is always a small amount of ferrite and/or martensite in the steel and so permeability values are always above 1. Typical values for standard austenitic stainless steels can be in the order of 1.05 – 1.1. See Composition effects on the magnetic permeability of austenitic stainless steels

It is possible for the magnetic permeability of austenitic steels to be changed during processing. For example, cold work and welding are liable to increase the amount of martensite and ferrite respectively in the steel. A familiar example is in a stainless steel sink where the flat drainer has little magnetic response whereas the pressed bowl has a higher response due to the formation of martensite particularly in the corners.

So, there you go - sometimes a magnet will stick to your downpipes, sometimes it won`t!

In practical terms, austenitic stainless steels are used for “non-magnetic” applications, for example magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) but have you ever tried to corner an MRI scanner?

I`ll stick to my red wine, removing my shirt BEFORE I clean my pipes (that was funny) and some good cleaning stuff!
 
just ordered some :thumb this may be a :ymca question but should I remove the bellypan before i use it (assume this stuff wont attack it ?)
 
just ordered some :thumb this may be a :ymca question but should I remove the bellypan before i use it (assume this stuff wont attack it ?)

You don't need to do that, but I would recommend applying the stuff with either a small sponge or an old paintbrush. Don't spray it, as it will get everywhere and is likely to take paint off.:rob
 
just ordered some :thumb this may be a :ymca question but should I remove the bellypan before i use it (assume this stuff wont attack it ?)

It might make access easier, but i didn't bother.

Just be very careful when brushing this stuff on your pipes, so as not to flick the solution on to anything else. i.e engine, frame, crashbars etc.
If you do, rinse it off ASAP.
:thumb
 
WOW!

Not long had this GS, (not my first, but the scruffiest) and I am in the process of making it pretty again. The exhaust and can look like they have been in the sea.

This was a good excuse to get some de cat headers, and managed to find a nice set of OEM headers that had been de catted, they were in good condition, but thought it was a good opportunity to get them as clean as I can before they go on the bike.

A trip over to Hein Gericke this morning and managed to blag the loyalty discount they are currently running I paid £9.09 for a bottle of the miracle liquid. The photos are the results.

Thanks for this great tip Mark, they look brill!
 

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I use a cloth with quite a bit of brasso on it and wrap it around the exhaust to get a good coat all the way around the pipe, its not as aggressive as autosol and with this method is easier to apply.
 
Not long had this GS, (not my first, but the scruffiest) and I am in the process of making it pretty again. The exhaust and can look like they have been in the sea.

This was a good excuse to get some de cat headers, and managed to find a nice set of OEM headers that had been de catted, they were in good condition, but thought it was a good opportunity to get them as clean as I can before they go on the bike.

A trip over to Hein Gericke this morning and managed to blag the loyalty discount they are currently running I paid �9.09 for a bottle of the miracle liquid. The photos are the results.

Thanks for this great tip Mark, they look brill!
Whan you say de-cat headers are they headers with the cat removed, if so have you got a closer pic of the welding etc? Cheers;)
 
AH, is that what they do now. The ones I saw before had a flap taken out off the top of the cat and welded back in place. Didnt look half as good as that method..
 
Not long had this GS, (not my first, but the scruffiest) and I am in the process of making it pretty again. The exhaust and can look like they have been in the sea.

This was a good excuse to get some de cat headers, and managed to find a nice set of OEM headers that had been de catted, they were in good condition, but thought it was a good opportunity to get them as clean as I can before they go on the bike.

A trip over to Hein Gericke this morning and managed to blag the loyalty discount they are currently running I paid £9.09 for a bottle of the miracle liquid. The photos are the results.

Thanks for this great tip Mark, they look brill!

Now i MUST get me some of this...

Anyone tried it on an 1100GS?
 


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