Ticking noise from engine/throttle body

[Big Lad]

Just done my valve clearances and throttle body sych and it's been a great improvement, BUT, a ticking noise is coming from the 'middle'of the engine on tickover. After a bit of head scratching, I realised that by putting my finger under the right throttle body, where the cable goes under, the noise stopped straight away. It starts again when I take my finger away. Has anyone got any idea what it may be and how to sort it ????

Cheers

 

[Greg Masters]

Sounds like the fuel-injectors! (nothing abnormal)



Greg

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Whatever you do, don't and I repeat don't touch the stop screws on those throttle bodies. Trust me on this one, will confirm the cost tomorrow for that excercise

 

[boxer]

Big Lad.

I'm not too sure about the area you're talking about but I seem to remember reading about the bearing or seal on the butterfly shaft wearing. Might be worth a look.

Russ.

 

[Henry Mawson]

Nice one Boxer. Sounds about right to me.
HENRY

 

[Guzzler]

Resync your Throttle bodies (DONT' TOUCH THE BUTTERFLY STOP SCREWS).

What you may have encountered is there is no slack on the bowden cable to the throttle bottle and that the butterfly plate it pulsing with engine and "ticking" on the inside of the Throttle bodie.

 

[Big Lad]

Guzzler, which one is the Bowden cable ?. How do I slacken it off if this is the problem ?

 

[leigh]

Just done my valve clearances and throttle body sych and it's been a great improvement, BUT, a ticking noise is coming from the 'middle'of the engine on tickover. After a bit of head scratching, I realised that by putting my finger under the right throttle body, where the cable goes under, the noise stopped straight away. It starts again when I take my finger away. Has anyone got any idea what it may be and how to sort it ????

Cheers

Yes!!the brass bush wears on the throttle body spindle.Even if you put some slack in the throttle cable or try & adjust it on the throttle stop screw it will still be there.No repair kits available -only replacement of throttle body!! Eek and they're not cheap!!

 

[Guzzler]

Guzzler, which one is the Bowden cable ?. How do I slacken it off if this is the problem ?

Basicly the Bowden cable is the cable that connects to the Throttle bodies. It is improperly referred as the throttle cable(s).

The throttle cable runs to the bowden cable divider, which in turns runs the bowden cables to the throttle bodies. Oh the "choke" connects to the bowden cable divider also.

But everyone just calls them the throttle cables.

You need to re-sync your TB's.

Here's a really quick pic for ya...

Oh yea, the "Throttle Plate Stop Screw" is the same as the "Butterfly plate stop screw"

 

[Big Lad]

Thank you chaps. I'm going to have a tinker and take the bike out for a run and re-sych with the twin max, hopefully I might be able to sort it. Cheers

 

[Big Lad]

Maverick, just wondering how you got on with your TB's?. After a few calls, I've got mine booked in for a new r/s throttle body ( £108 for a new one ). I tried to balance the TB's again with no luck, the ticking will not go away no matter how far I turn the 'bowden' (?) cable adjuster. I'm off to france in 3 weeks so decided to play it safe. Anyway, what was your end result then ?

 

[Guzzler]

Hey Big Lad,

If you still have time before your trip, would you try this procedure for doing a TB sync? (It's a rough guide)

Warm engine to 3 bars on the rid
Lightly seat the Idle Air By-pass screws on each throttle body
Loosen the throttle cable at the twist throttle
Loosen the Fast Idle cable “choke cable"
Loosen the bowden cables on each throttle body
Lightly lube the bowden cable adjuster barrel (WD40)
Remove the slack in the LEFT bowden cable till ~ 1 mm play
Tighten the lock nut on the LEFT bowden cable adjuster
Remove the slack in the RIGHT bowden cable till ~ 2-3 mm play
Finger tighten the lock nut on the RIGHT bowden cable adjuster
Connect the manometer to each throttle body
Start engine
Back out the high side Idle Air By-pass screw to match the low side
Back out each Idle Air By-pass screw 1/8th a turn, blip throttle
Continue backing out each Idle Air By-pass screws an 1/8th of a turn till an idle of 1100 ± 50 RPM is achieved (blip throttle after each adjustment)
Rev engine to 2500 – 3000 RPM and hold, adjust the RIGHT bowden cable adjuster to achieve balance
Verify idle balance (adjust RIGHT Idle Air By-pass screw) to match
Verify balance at 2500 – 3000 RPM, adjust bowden cable adjuster accordingly
(repeat the last 2 steps accordingly till balanced)
Tighten the RIGHT bowden cable adjuster lock nut (verify balance hasn’t changed)
Remove the slack on throttle cable, at the twist throttle.
Remove the slack on the fast idle lever.

WARNING: If temperature reaches 5 bars on the RID, turn off engine and let it cool
WARNING: If engine “knocks” at idle, turn off engine and let it cool. Place electrical house fans in front of bike blowing air over the cylinders and oil cooler.

 

[Big Lad]

Thanks for that Guzzler. I'll give that a go at the weekend and let you know how I get on. The bike isn't booked in until 5th May so hopefully it'll work. One thing, you mention loosening the throttle cable at the throttle. My bike is a 94 1100GS and the Haynes manual says the cable should be loosened at the TB's. Is that right ?

 

[(RIP) Jamie]

Big Lad,

Mine's been ticking for a while now, sometimes it does, sometimes it don't. If I can put up with it it shouldn't be a problem.

Two well known dealerships have pointed it out to me now, neither with a sense of urgency - still running well, balances up lovely as well.

Don't worry about it.

Jamie

 

[Big Lad]

I know what you're saying Jamie, and it's common sense. It's a bit like driving to work and a mile down the road wondering if you turned the iron off. Then thinking you did and you're sure you did, but getting paranoid and HAVING to drive back and double check, only to find you did turn it off !. That never happned to me of course, just a made up example (!!!!!!!!!), but what I'm saying is, it plays on your mind and I want my bike to run as well as it can.

Was that a load of bollocks or what ?. Anyway, I'll re- check the TB's, guzzler style, and take it from there. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Guzzler]

My bike is a 94 1100GS and the Haynes manual says the cable should be loosened at the TB's. Is that right ?

Aaaa crap, me bad. I assumed (bad, bad, bad) that you were on an R1150 motor.

Disreguard all the above. Sorry

 

[Guzzler]

I just did a quick read on the R1100 shop manual. The "ticking" you are hearing is mentioned as...

NOTE:
If play is zero, the throttle butterflies may chatter.

So, the short story is that the cables to your Throttle bodies DON'T have any play in them.

Now... if your cables do have the specified play (rangeing from 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm, depending on which cable) AND you still have butterfly chatter. Your bushings for the butterfly valves have worn out.

You can try to rebuild them. You're gonna have to search the net for procedures. Or order new Throttle Bodies.

 

[(RIP) Jamie]

I know what you're saying Jamie, and it's common sense. It's a bit like driving to work and a mile down the road wondering if you turned the iron off. Then thinking you did and you're sure you did, but getting paranoid and HAVING to drive back and double check, only to find you did turn it off !. That never happned to me of course, just a made up example (!!!!!!!!!), but what I'm saying is, it plays on your mind and I want my bike to run as well as it can.

Was that a load of bollocks or what ?. Anyway, I'll re- check the TB's, guzzler style, and take it from there. Thanks for all the help.

Biggie

As far as I'm aware or concerned, it hasn't affected the bike performance - I was mainly worried about gas leakage. It will get worse and need changing, but I reckon you'll get plenty of warning. Also, like I say, sometimes it does, sometimes it don't.

I'll get round to sorting it.

Mines a '95 1100 by the way

Jamie