Tyre pressure sensors purchase

[er-minio]

My GS is a 2007, came without pressure sensors (no biggie).

I have 2 sets of rims on my GS. The most recent ones I purchased online, have tyre pressure sensors fitted. I also had the alarm fitted to the bike after I bought it ages ago.
Last summer I tried to add the sensors but I can only see the rear wheel one and doesn't really work, but I guess the batteries on the front wheel sensor died and the rear is on the way.

Long story short, I wanted to replace the sensors on those set of wheels. I have the original ones, banana style.
Where to buy those? Is Schrader still selling them?
Are the cheapo one on eBay completely useless?

I was following this thread:

Coding new TPMS/RDC Sensors with GS911(Legacy)

I have spent a couple of days trying to get replacement ture pressure sensors working with little success. That is, until today 😁 The sensors were cheap AliExpress items so I was not expecting much. The process, however, was failing before the sensors could even be expected to work. I am using...

www.ukgser.com

 

[Slipperyeel]

I have just this weekend finished truing my front wheel! Yay!

But before it all goes back together, I've been wondering about changing the 13yr old sensor...and like you I too have looked at the Schraeder sensor. But I have two eBay banana shaped sensors (bought for the seals only!) and wonder about using them.

Getting the front tyre off was a friggin nightmare and I wondered if the banana shaped sensor was getting in the way, filling the central gap in the rim, preventing the tyre bead moving into the space. Would the Schraeder sensor be any better?

The Schraeder part # is I think 3141M Not especially cheap though.

The eBay sensors I bought (thank you Mistercat!) are here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11542935...3fFVH5NS32&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY



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[er-minio]

I have just this weekend finished truing my front wheel! Yay!

You wanna do another set?
I have all sort of vibration issues

Joking! But I might open another thread to ask you some info, as I'm trying to solve some vibration issues on the bike when fully loaded (ok otherwise) and the primary suspect are the wheels (I have 2 sets).

Thanks for the info.
The bananas should be Schraeder too.

I was thinking initially to install the new sensors, the smaller ones... but the price is fairly high for something that is just an extra.
I was looking at those cheapo ones on eBay... if the sensors fail I don't mind much... I'm more worried about having a decent valve installed.

 

[Pukmeister]

I have just this weekend finished truing my front wheel! Yay!

Go on then, whats your secret ??

 

[cookie]

Getting the front tyre off was a friggin nightmare and I wondered if the banana shaped sensor was getting in the way, filling the central gap in the rim, preventing the tyre bead moving into the space. Would the Schraeder sensor be any better?

You need to start getting the tyre off near the sensor so the opposite side drops into the well of the rim. When putting the tyre on, finish at the rim.

I recently did the job on a narrow 21" where the problem is even more acute.

 

[Slipperyeel]

You need to start getting the tyre off near the sensor so the opposite side drops into the well of the rim. When putting the tyre on, finish at the rim.

I recently did the job on a narrow 21" where the problem is even more acute.

Yea. You're right. I did try that, nigh impossible to rotate the duck head once the bread was up onto it. Bent a spoke trying! Now replaced.

The tyre I was removing was/is a Conti RA 3. I tried clamps on the free side of the tyre to help get the bread into the trough. It would not budge. At that time the temps were not helpful - about 5-6° and decided this wasn't helping me.

In the end I have in and you out to a local bike shop - who also struggled - but I think because their duck head was not suitable for cross spoked wheels...

I would welcome a demo from someone one day to see where I went wrong! Really maddening. But I had to get it off to true the wheel. No choice

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[Slipperyeel]

Go on then, whats your secret ??

I'll do a separate post so I don't hijack er-minio's post.

In short, it was back to the start, with rim rattling on the hub...and the secret weapon, the Skylar TruSpoke tool. Horribly expensive . But it actually does the job. Radial run out is now down to 0.3-4mm, actual approx .7mm+/- - best I could get it after 4 restarts.

I made some very impromptu videos that I'll stitch together and share because I think lots of people will find some parts useful. Will post later this week

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[Slipperyeel]

You wanna do another set?
I have all sort of vibration issues

.

Actually, would be happy to. I printed an adapter for the rear wheel, so no problem getting that onto the jig. You'd just need to get the wheels to me without tyres. So far, my front wheel is a big success compared to how it was (and it's been wrong for a couple of years!). Have a think

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[cookie]

Yea. You're right. I did try that, nigh impossible to rotate the duck head once the bread was up onto it. Bent a spoke trying! Now replaced.

The tyre I was removing was/is a Conti RA 3. I tried clamps on the free side of the tyre to help get the bread into the trough. It would not budge. At that time the temps were not helpful - about 5-6° and decided this wasn't helping me.

In the end I have in and you out to a local bike shop - who also struggled - but I think because their duck head was not suitable for cross spoked wheels...

I would welcome a demo from someone one day to see where I went wrong! Really maddening. But I had to get it off to true the wheel. No choice

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I did mine with levers.

 

[er-minio]

Have a think

Hmmmmmm seems an interesting proposition
I'll have a think. But thanks in advance.

My tyres are shot after last week in the Picos... I could remove them myself (I changed tyres on the DRZ... how much worse could radials be ) and use the other rims with the TKC80s for a while.



Just to explain what is happening:

R1200GS Adv. ~77k miles. Has been offroaded.
In the last few years, the bike started vibrating (bars) when traveling loaded (loaded = two tin cans with stuff inside - never top boxes).
Get worse when getting into corners.
In the Picos, when we left it was medium bad... adding +8 preload on the rear made it bearable.

This is a new behaviour that happened recently and happens only when the bike is loaded, so I periodically forget about it.

Bike has Ohlins TTX with stiffer springs (I'm heavy), Ohlins have been serviced/rebuilt recently, I had the static sag done a few weeks ago... etc.
All seems ok... what I think it might be is the wheels being in bad shape inducing the vibration.
Bike has been offroaded on both set of rims over time...

Might have to split this into a new thread as well.

But the intention was... fix the rims, put sensors in it, put new tyres.

 

[Slipperyeel]

I did mine with levers.

How far away are you. Can I send it to you for re-fitting?

I can't work out what I was doing wrong It just shouldn't have been so difficult

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[cookie]

How far away are you. Can I send it to you for re-fitting?

I can't work out what I was doing wrong It just shouldn't have been so difficult

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If you can get the opposite side in the well, it shouldn't be too hard to get the tyre on or off. I see you used clamps. I've done that to clamp the beads together sometimes and it works well. This time IIRC I used a bead buddy and and small block of wood to keep the tyre going down.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Hmmmmmm seems an interesting proposition
I'll have a think. But thanks in advance.

My tyres are shot after last week in the Picos... I could remove them myself (I changed tyres on the DRZ... how much worse could radials be ) and use the other rims with the TKC80s for a while.



Just to explain what is happening:

R1200GS Adv. ~77k miles. Has been offroaded.
In the last few years, the bike started vibrating (bars) when traveling loaded (loaded = two tin cans with stuff inside - never top boxes).
Get worse when getting into corners.
In the Picos, when we left it was medium bad... adding +8 preload on the rear made it bearable.

This is a new behaviour that happened recently and happens only when the bike is loaded, so I periodically forget about it.

Bike has Ohlins TTX with stiffer springs (I'm heavy), Ohlins have been serviced/rebuilt recently, I had the static sag done a few weeks ago... etc.
All seems ok... what I think it might be is the wheels being in bad shape inducing the vibration.
Bike has been offroaded on both set of rims over time...

Might have to split this into a new thread as well.

But the intention was... fix the rims, put sensors in it, put new tyres.

You would be very welcome to just get them onto the truing jig and see if there is anything obvious. I think the spoked wheels are sufficiently flexible, eventually allowing them get quite out of shape.

My offer stands. See what you think.

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[Slipperyeel]

If you can get the opposite side in the well, it shouldn't be too hard to get the tyre on or off. I see you used clamps. I've done that to clamp the beads together sometimes and it works well. This time IIRC I used a bead buddy and and small block of wood to keep the tyre going down.

Thanks for the tips. There's either a foible of this particular tyre or I was doing something wrong, though I was looking at all they possibilities . It's my first time changing my own tyres, and I think the front is probably not as easy as the rear.
I I'll get there eventually - it might have been less stressful if I was chasing the tyres rather than just tried you get to a naked rim!

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[er-minio]

You would be very welcome to just get them onto the truing jig and see if there is anything obvious.

Hm this seems a god first step. I'll take the tyres off.
Il'DM you!

Thanks.

 

[cookie]

Thanks for the tips. There's either a foible of this particular tyre or I was doing something wrong, though I was looking at all they possibilities . It's my first time changing my own tyres, and I think the front is probably not as easy as the rear.
I I'll get there eventually - it might have been less stressful if I was chasing the tyres rather than just tried you get to a naked rim!

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It gets easier quite quickly, but you do need a bit of practise to find the knack.

 

[Slipperyeel]

It gets easier quite quickly, but you do need a bit of practise to find the knack.

I need to work on that knack

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[Slipperyeel]

Hm this seems a god first step. I'll take the tyres off.
Il'DM you!

Thanks.

As and when

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[botus]

the dish in the centre of your rim is to allow the tyre to come off easily - the idea is you get the tyre lose, then get one sides bead sits in the dish (effectively making the wheel smaller than the tyre), so the diagonally opposite bit has a chance to come off.... the wider the wheel and the deeper the well / dish on the rim, the easier it is... add a tyre pressure sensor to a tiny narrow rim width and it gets harder

unless out in nowhere land on a world wide trip why do it.... with a lose rim a tyre place will have the old one off and a new tyre on with no damage inside 2 minutes

watch a car tyre being done on a machine and its very easy to see the operator maneuver the tyre into the well/dish to get the thing off

 

[Slipperyeel]

the dish in the centre of your rim is to allow the tyre to come off easily - the idea is you get the tyre lose, then get one sides bead sits in the dish (effectively making the wheel smaller than the tyre), so the diagonally opposite bit has a chance to come off.... the wider the wheel and the deeper the well / dish on the rim, the easier it is... add a tyre pressure sensor to a tiny narrow rim width and it gets harder

unless out in nowhere land on a world wide trip why do it.... with a lose rim a tyre place will have the old one off and a new tyre on with no damage inside 2 minutes

watch a car tyre being done on a machine and its very easy to see the operator maneuver the tyre into the well/dish to get the thing off

We get all that (me included).

But the front tyre is: a) definitely not as easy as the rear tyre. b) low temperatures will not be your friend when doing the front tyre. c) I need to suss it out because I should have already been doing it for years! I'm a bit late to they party. I want the independence. It is long overdue.

But yes, the well in the centre of the rim is understood - I suspect it is a happy marriage of structural strength + accommodating tyre fitting.

ps. Bike shop handed me my wheel and tyre and said "don't know how you're even gonna get that back on!" - they're either bone heads (perfectly possible) or for trains I don't get, I have an odd tyre?
My wheel is finished. I'll be getting the tyre back on this weekend...I think

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