Ultimate Blast 135bd horn electrics

[Mark Hooton]

Guys, I am in the process of fitting an FIAMM Ultimate Blast 135db horn to my R1200GSA.

The bracketry needed to safely support an 800g horn assembly is easy enough to make however sadly I am not an ELECTRICAL engineer!

The blurb shows the wiring of the relay as per the diagram and what I have done (cos there are 2 wires powering the OEM horn via the CANBUS system) is wire it up as shown in red.

Naturally it doesn`t work (works without the relay.......) so I am guessing that it is because, as usual, I am simply bloody stupid

Can anyone spot the schoolboy error (i.e. turning up ) and tell me what I have done wrong?

Any assistance, including any piss taking, is appreciated and no doubt deserved by anyone who is schooled in the art of all things electrickery.

Ta,

Mark.

Btw way the blurb does seem to indicate using the diagram on the left rather than the right due to some reason that I can`t remember (see above Re Bloody Stupid)

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Wiring Diagram by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[topcat2006]

Mark,

30 needs to have battery voltage onto it through a fuse (+12v)

Can bus socket 0v (-12v) needs to go to 86.

The horn - needs to go to battery 0v (- 12v)

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[WindyChuffer]

From memory:

30 is to be wired to the battery positive terminal and fused.
85 goes to one of the original horn connectors
86 goes to the other original horn connector
87 to new horn +ve terminal. This should be live when relay is triggered by horn switch.
PLUS One of the horn connectors must be grounded (and not connected to the relay. )

Will check on laptop later!

EDIT - Yup thats right. Pins 85 and 86 are used to switch the relay. It doesn't matter which one goes to ground, and which one goes to +ve.

So connect one of the connectors from the old horn to 85 and the other to 86. Doesn't matter which way round it goes. That will trigger the relay when ignition is on and horn switch is pressed. You should hear the relay click as you press and release the horn switch.

Pressing the horn switch will cause pins 30 & 87 to short together, energising the new horn.

 

[Daffy]

Be careful as most horns go to earth through the switch to protect the switch terminals from the high current - I don't know how this works on a Can Bus GS but is usual in the automotive world and is the way that your diagram on the right is wired

Looking at your drawing you need to take the existing horn wires to terminals 85 & 86 of the relay to switch it, it wont really make too much difference which way around as the current will be low compared to the old horn even.

you need to take a live wire from the battery (or some other heavy consumer that isnt can bus controlled) with a fuse as close to the battery as possible, this goes to terminal 30 on the relay

Term 87 on the relay goes to the horn + (no need to fuse it as you have already done this earlier close to the battery)

the - term on the horn goes to earth, I suggest you use the frame or take a cable back to the negative on the battery.

It will then work as planned.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Be careful as most horns go to earth through the switch to protect the switch terminals from the high current - I don't know how this works on a Can Bus GS but is usual in the automotive world and is the way that your diagram on the right is wired

Looking at your drawing you need to take the existing horn wires to terminals 85 & 86 of the relay to switch it, it wont really make too much difference which way around as the current will be low compared to the old horn even.

you need to take a live wire from the battery (or some other heavy consumer that isnt can bus controlled) with a fuse as close to the battery as possible, this goes to terminal 30 on the relay

Term 87 on the relay goes to the horn + (no need to fuse it as you have already done this earlier close to the battery)

the - term on the horn goes to earth, I suggest you use the frame or take a cable back to the negative on the battery.

It will then work as planned.

Err not quite. Current flows from positive, through the horn, then to ground. If the horn takes 20A then, 20A will be flowing through both the Red (+ve) and Black (-ve) wires !

 

[Mark Hooton]

Thanks guys

Windychuffer, thank you very much, your kind guidance has saved the life of someone who would normally blow himself up from black magic electrickery!

And thanks to all who have kindly offered their wisdom - its always appreciated and underlines the value (or one of them) of this fine forum.

its never too long before some like minded Gent of the Hog offers help!

i`ll get it wried up and we will see what happens!

(louder noise I hope.................)

 

[F104]

horn wiring

on mine (Nautilus) i have installed it as shown. 30 is indeed battery plus, 87 is switched power thru the relay. Hence 86 and 85 control the relay. 86 is connected to 30 so battery+. 85 is a the grounding switch (like the original horn switch), so ground it, and it activates the relay.
I ran wo wires directly to the battery to bypass the CanBus current and all. One is 30 to positive (with a 30 amp fuse) , the other is horn ground to battery negative

cheers,

 

[Mark Hooton]

ha ha ha

Good job i`m not getting confused...................

 

[Daffy]

Err not quite. Current flows from positive, through the horn, then to ground. If the horn takes 20A then, 20A will be flowing through both the Red (+ve) and Black (-ve) wires !

I don't know which bit you are questioning, 20amp will flow (less if it a 20 amp fuse but lets not be pedantic) through the horn and also through term 30 and 87 on the relay.

if you put a fuse close to the source (probably the battery) then the whole circuit is protected.

Terms 85 & 86 simply switch the relay and uses negligible current which would be less than the existing horn.

 

[The Prospector]

Err not quite. Current flows from positive, through the horn, then to ground. If the horn takes 20A then, 20A will be flowing through both the Red (+ve) and Black (-ve) wires !

A long time ago when I was at school I remember my physics teacher saying that current flow in a dc circuit runs from negative to positive, I believe thats why it is always recomended disconecting the -ve terminal first.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Windychuffer, thank you very much, your kind guidance has saved the life of someone who would normally blow himself up from black magic electrickery!

And thanks to all who have kindly offered their wisdom - its always appreciated and underlines the value (or one of them) of this fine forum.

its never too long before some like minded Gent of the Hog offers help!

i`ll get it wried up and we will see what happens!

(louder noise I hope.................)

No problem. Let us know how you get on. Also, can you post pics of your bracketry. Am sure you'll be selling those soon too, and good on you. I'll buy one from you.

 

[WindyChuffer]

A long time ago when I was at school I remember my physics teacher saying that current flow in a dc circuit runs from negative to positive, I believe thats why it is always recomended disconecting the -ve terminal first.

I think the current is considered to flow one way, but the actual electrons flow the other way. Am buggered if I can remember which way round it is though. Either way, both the red and black wires take the same current.

 

[Daffy]

A long time ago when I was at school I remember my physics teacher saying that current flow in a dc circuit runs from negative to positive, I believe thats why it is always recomended disconecting the -ve terminal first.

You are both right, technically electrons flow from neg to positive but it is generally accepted that current flows pos to neg. (current and electrons are not the same)

The recommendation to disconnect the negative is because when you connect your spanner to the bodywork whilst it is touching the terminal it doesnt weld itself to anything and once the neg is disconnected you can short the pos to anything you like (except the neg term on the batter) without event

Whereas if you disconnect pos first you need to be very careful not to short your spanner out which can cause arcing and possible injury especially if the battery is gassing.

 

[WindyChuffer]

I don't know which bit you are questioning, 20amp will flow (less if it a 20 amp fuse but lets not be pedantic) through the horn and also through term 30 and 87 on the relay.

if you put a fuse close to the source (probably the battery) then the whole circuit is protected.

Terms 85 & 86 simply switch the relay and uses negligible current which would be less than the existing horn.

The 20A will flow from the battery to pin 30, out through pin 87, through the horn and through to ground.

 

[Daffy]

The 20A will flow from the battery to pin 30, out through pin 87, through the horn and through to ground.

Agreed but have I said different except to say it should be fused close to the battery?

 

[trainman]

sounds complicated to me, is it worth the trouble!

think i'll give it a miss, last used my horn about 3 years ago (must be an old fart)

 

[Mark Hooton]

sounds complicated to me, is it worth the trouble!

think i'll give it a miss, last used my horn about 3 years ago (must be an old fart)

Ha, funny man and i tend to agree but I`ve come this far..................

And I don`t want to be wasteful of all the kind advice.

Photo(s) of bracketry and horn (ooooeeeeerrrrr) to follow!

And once again many thanks to all the geezers who have given up their time to offer good advice.

 

[Mark Hooton]

Not very glamourous

guys, not very glamourorus but for the kindly interested parties out there here is the bracketry I used to securely attach the horn (800g FFS) to a sturdy safe anchor point on the bike.

btw it was a b*stard to fit, you need to be a bloody gyeanacologist (sorry, no idea how to spell that)

I guess you don`t have to use it for the horn (I have to be careful how I say that.................)

Happy to make them for anyone who needs one. 2mm stainless, you can hang a house off it............ (please don`t sue me if you have a detached with a heavy rockery )

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Brkt with horn fitted by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

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Brkt fitted by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

regards,

mark
www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk

 

[red line]

i bought an "L" bracket from homebase and bent one side to fit in where the OEM horn attaches and then bolted the other end to by nautilus horn. Works a treat and easy to fit where the OEM was fitted.

 

[F104]

horn mounting

On my Nautilus, i did not like the single point mount provided. Whatever you do, it creates a bending moment somewhere. And the nautilus housing is only two aluminium end caps, tied together by the middle steel wrap-around bit.

I don't have ESA. My Nautilus compressor is mounted horizontally on (2010GS) the left and right lugs high between the forks. One takes the Nautilus mount, the other an L shaped bracket stuck under a hose band clamp around the other side of the compressor unit.