Valve clearances ? how easy / difficult??

The biggest risk of tight valve clearances is burning the valve seats.
A valve cracked open the tiniest amount gets no cooling from its seat and high pressure gas through the narrow gap quickly erodes the metal.
Air cooled engines are at more risk than water cooled.
 
Yes I agree ... so how the F do you set a gap erring toward the minimum BMW tolerance for gap while using the correct gauge as advocated by uturntony ????????????? I am being pedantic I know but the idea is nonsensical. You either do the job right and get the correct gap or do it wrong and get a bad setting... you cannot set something tight if you have a gauge jammed across between the two valves and the actuators

I'll tell you how the F.
We're talking about rocker end-float here.
The BMW tolerance for the end-float gap is such that several different thicknesses of feeler gauge will give you a gap 'within tolerance'. In a dealership they gauge the gap with feelers and if it's 'within tolerance' they don't touch it.

As a home mechanic, if you want to do a good job you'll set the rocker end-float gap at the minimum end of the range (using the appropriate gauge), then you'll set the valve clearances and then if you want to do a complete job, you'll balance the throttle bodies. This gives you a quieter, smoother tickover and minimises vibration.

Before telling people they're talking bollocks, how about reading the "F'ing" manual?
 
Yes I agree ... so how the F do you set a gap erring toward the minimum BMW tolerance for gap while using the correct gauge as advocated by uturntony ????????????? I am being pedantic I know but the idea is nonsensical. You either do the job right and get the correct gap or do it wrong and get a bad setting... you cannot set something tight if you have a gauge jammed across between the two valves and the actuators

Its not rocket science. Get a descent set of feeler gauges (not the worth ones, unless you use them and another set to measure the differences) and when the engine is cold measure the ACTUAL gaps. Then taking a look at the gaps recommended see if there is any difference. Then its simple arithmetic to workout the difference between the min value as reccomended and the actual gap. Then its a case of removing the shims and reading the values off the backof them and replace /change the shims around until you fit the correct ones that are closest to the min gap...........Simples.
 
I'll tell you how the F.
We're talking about rocker end-float here.
The BMW tolerance for the end-float gap is such that several different thicknesses of feeler gauge will give you a gap 'within tolerance'. In a dealership they gauge the gap with feelers and if it's 'within tolerance' they don't touch it.

As a home mechanic, if you want to do a good job you'll set the rocker end-float gap at the minimum end of the range (using the appropriate gauge), then you'll set the valve clearances and then if you want to do a complete job, you'll balance the throttle bodies. This gives you a quieter, smoother tickover and minimises vibration.

Before telling people they're talking bollocks, how about reading the "F'ing" manual?



You are the one talking bollox bud. If the end float is set correctly and you use the correct feeler gauge at the correct TDC position then the gap is either correct or you used the wrong feeler gauge. If someone comes on and brightly quotes "Yes and set them near the minimum clearance for a nice quiet engine." They are going to have to explain how the F the do that because if the endfloat is set the setting is 0.15mm and 0.3mm and that is the thickness of feelers that you use for the job SO YOU STOP TALKING BOLLOX
 
A bucket and shim or screw & locket should make some noise. Start to worry when its all gone quiet.

I did the shims on my Yamaha 900 - simple enough but very fiddly. When done, the engine made MORE tappet noise not less. That was of course correct because some valves now a wider clearance than before. One was just below minimum the other were within range but I shuffled them about to get them all around the mid point between max and min.
 
You are the one talking bollox bud. If the end float is set correctly and you use the correct feeler gauge at the correct TDC position then the gap is either correct or you used the wrong feeler gauge. If someone comes on and brightly quotes "Yes and set them near the minimum clearance for a nice quiet engine." They are going to have to explain how the F the do that because if the endfloat is set the setting is 0.15mm and 0.3mm and that is the thickness of feelers that you use for the job SO YOU STOP TALKING BOLLOX

You doing actually understand what the F you're on about do you? Rocker shaft end float is NOT valve clearance.

Do you use understand the concept of an 'acceptable range of clearance' (which the rocker shaft end float has)?

You've clearly never actually done a valve clearance adjustment on a bmw boxer have you?

Do some googling.
 
I did an 80 mile run yesterday,

At 60mph on the mway, with my music playing & engine burbling away, the tapping is not that evident ;)

When i get some free time I'll pop the covers and have a look see,

I think some of it may be me exploring NBS (new bike syndrome)


Mart
 
Don't want to be picky but how do you do that? If you do it right with the correct gap feeler gauge then you get the correct gap :nenau the only way to get the incorrect gap is to do it wrong and use the wrong gap feeler gauge... or are you just suggesting you fiddle about with the setting until you get a gap that is at the minimum end of the tolerance scale?

End float.

Yes I agree ... so how the F do you set a gap erring toward the minimum BMW tolerance for gap while using the correct gauge as advocated by uturntony ????????????? I am being pedantic I know but the idea is nonsensical. You either do the job right and get the correct gap or do it wrong and get a bad setting... you cannot set something tight if you have a gauge jammed across between the two valves and the actuators

End float.


You are the one talking bollox bud. If the end float is set correctly and you use the correct feeler gauge at the correct TDC position then the gap is either correct or you used the wrong feeler gauge. If someone comes on and brightly quotes "Yes and set them near the minimum clearance for a nice quiet engine." They are going to have to explain how the F the do that because if the endfloat is set the setting is 0.15mm and 0.3mm and that is the thickness of feelers that you use for the job SO YOU STOP TALKING BOLLOX


Hilarious..

You need to understand the difference between end float and valve clearence/gap.

When you've worked it out and fully understood then you can pronounce who's talking bollox or not. :D
 
End float.



End float.





Hilarious..

You need to understand the difference between end float and valve clearence/gap.

When you've worked it out and fully understood then you can pronounce who's talking bollox or not. :D


I do know the difference :) If the bike has been serviced properly at 600 miles then the end float should not need reset... but if as a matter of course you are going to do that during value adjustment then the owner should really have invest in a angle torque adjuster to properly re-torque if head nuts are going to be loosened ?
 
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Quote Originally Posted by jwpzx9r View Post

I do know the difference
Could have fooled me.
Done some reading have you?

And if you can't do 180 degrees with a standard spanner then it's not the job for you.


You cannot accurately angle torque four individual nuts 180 degrees with a standard spanner...end of... not surprisingly that is why they use angle meters.
 
I do know the difference :) If the bike has been serviced properly at 600 miles then the end float should not need reset... but if as a matter of course you are going to do that during value adjustment then the owner should really have invest in a angle torque adjuster to properly re-torque if head nuts are going to be loosened ?

Why do you find this so difficult? Or are you just trolling for an argument?



Sent somehow.
 
You cannot accurately angle torque four individual nuts 180 degrees with a standard spanner...end of... not surprisingly that is why they use angle meters.

So, this morning you clearly had no idea what rocker end float on a boxer BM is, let alone how you check / adjust it and now you're an expert?

At least your comical rants this morning are saved as evidence of your complete lack of understanding.

Come back to us when you've actually done a few cylinder head services.

Oh, and if you really can't eyeball 180 degrees, a piece of card with a line drawn on it and a standard socket wrench makes a nice angular torque gauge.
 
.
You cannot accurately angle torque four individual nuts 180 degrees with a standard spanner...end of... not surprisingly that is why they use angle meters.
When you're in a hole stop digging.
I've never needed an angle meter in more than 25 years of working full time on BMW's.
 


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