Valve clearances ? how easy / difficult??

That doesn't sound great.
Sounds to be cam speed rather than engine speed - doesn't really sound tappety to my ears.
I've seen Steptoe post about cam follower wear on some 1200’s - hope it's not that but the only way to be sure is to pull the cover and see what's there.

I would limit your riding until you've found out what the problem is.
 
Feelers & torque wrench ordered today ...

hopefully i should know more by Saturday

Mart
 
OK, Divvi mode on...

How do i know if its TDC in the compression cycle for the cylinder I'm working on?

I've whipped the rocker cover off, very clean and shiney, no instantly obvious issues,

Although that may not be a good thing.

turned the engine over a few times (by hand i hasten to add ;) ) and got to what i thought

was compression tdc. all valves loose .... loose the exhaust set felt like a country mile...

(no feelers yet, so i cant give an accurate reading)

One thing i did note, as it bumps over to compress the exhaust valves it makes an odd

clack/ cracking noise ... not sure if its to do with the rocker feeling very loose ...


As i say wont know more until i get feelers on them


mart
 
OK, cant do any more today, as I've been let down by the mail systems which identified

delivery today! So no feeler set or torque wrench!

Things i did find out!

The bike has been down on its side !

Bloody struggle to get the LH rocker cover off, due to the reduced clearance between the

crash bars & the cover


No obvious loose, damaged broken parts flapping around

The sloppy clearance is also on the LH exhaust bank of valves, so prehaps 0.30 is a huge

gap lol.

No noise eminates from the LH exhaust bank as they are being closed,

The RH bank makes a clack / crack noise as it closes ... ?? one to investigate further

perhaps

End float not checked on either bank


Ive just bagged both banks and will have to wait until next weekend now ..

A week of walking lol :)

Mart
 
Remove primary spark plugs. Turn the engine forwards. Top dead centre after inlet valves close is the firing point where all valves should be shut and can followers are in the middle of the cam back face.

Loosen the tappets then reset all four so you can feel the clearance. Pop the covers back and start the engine.

If noise has stopped you know it was a valve. clearance issue. With clearances guessed like that you can't use the bike but you have at least worked out the problem.

When I first did mine I just used normal mechanic's feeler gauges. There is no need to do both valves at the same time (though it is easier with a pair. I backed off one tappet, then set its partner valve clearance. When that's set, go back to the loosened tappet and set that correctly.

Job done.

BTW torque setting the tappet screws is not practical. You will almost certainly mess up the clearance and you need a special crow's foot spanner. The rocker cover screws (being long and thin) do need careful tightening.
 
Bendy toy said:
Remove primary spark plugs. Turn the engine forwards. Top dead centre after inlet valves close is the firing point where all valves should be shut and can followers are in the middle of the cam back face.

Loosen the tappets then reset all four so you can feel the clearance. Pop the covers back and start the engine.

If noise has stopped you know it was a valve. clearance issue. With clearances guessed like that you can't use the bike but you have at least worked out the problem.

When I first did mine I just used normal mechanic's feeler gauges. There is no need to do both valves at the same time (though it is easier with a pair. I backed off one tappet, then set its partner valve clearance. When that's set, go back to the loosened tappet and set that correctly.

Job done.

BTW torque setting the tappet screws is not practical. You will almost certainly mess up the clearance and you need a special crow's foot spanner. The rocker cover screws (being long and thin) do need careful tightening.
Click to expand...

I'm doing nothing until the feelers turn up :)

I may purchase a normal set, to see just what the actual clearance is.

Looking at digital caliper .30 is very very thin.

I'd say roughly there about .9mm if not more

Mart
 
The "clacking" noise you're describing as you rotate the engine is the cam chain tensioner, perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. To set the engine at TDC on the firing stroke put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel, watch the inlet valves open and then close, insert a Straw or thin screwdriver down the spark plug hole, turn the rear wheel and when the straw/screwdriver is pushed out to its maximum point that's TDC on the firing/ compression stroke - don't forget you must do this for each cylinder. I only ever use a single feeler gauge on a single valve at a time. Why complicate and over think the most simple of jobs by using multi feeler gauges 😄
 
Santa-2512 said:
I'm doing nothing until the feelers turn up :)

I may purchase a normal set, to see just what the actual clearance is.

Looking at digital caliper .30 is very very thin.

I'd say roughly there about .9mm if not more

Mart
Click to expand...

If the engine is started with tight clearances it may not get enough compression. But no harm done unless it's run like that for enough time to get hot. Tight clearance makes no noise.
If the clearances are wide the slack rockers will be obvious apart from the noise.
Agree about not over complicating the job. Do one valve, then do the other. Turn engine check all is ok. Repeat for the other pair.


Sent somehow.
 
Well I've just had a go ...

I did it near on as Neil described :)

in the absence of the torque wrench, I've not gone any further than check & adjust

Ok scores on the doors

RH In upper 0.28mm
RH In lower 0.23mm

RH Ex upper 0.43mm
RH Ex lower 0.43mm

LH In upper 0.23mm
LH In lower 0.23mm

LH Ex upper 0.38mm
LH Ex lower 0.38mm

Obviously out!

All set back to 0.15mm & 0.30mm

End float,
I checked the end float, but it gives 2 measurement points and one spec?

Not sure how you work that then, but all was good on end float (i think)

RH end float was 0.05-0.28 LH was 0.15-0.23

My only concern it tightening the locknuts, not sure how to judge how tight is tight.

Obviously i want them tight enough not to move /undo, but don't want to strip the feckers

any tips ..

Mart
 
Steptoe said:
The "clacking" noise you're describing as you rotate the engine is the cam chain tensioner, perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. To set the engine at TDC on the firing stroke put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel, watch the inlet valves open and then close, insert a Straw or thin screwdriver down the spark plug hole, turn the rear wheel and when the straw/screwdriver is pushed out to its maximum point that's TDC on the firing/ compression stroke - don't forget you must do this for each cylinder. I only ever use a single feeler gauge on a single valve at a time. Why complicate and over think the most simple of jobs by using multi feeler gauges ��
Click to expand...

Cheers,

In the end, exactly what i did :bow

Mart
 
Bendy toy said:
If the engine is started with tight clearances it may not get enough compression. But no harm done unless it's run like that for enough time to get hot. Tight clearance makes no noise.
If the clearances are wide the slack rockers will be obvious apart from the noise.
Agree about not over complicating the job. Do one valve, then do the other. Turn engine check all is ok. Repeat for the other pair.


Sent somehow.
Click to expand...
Think that was a typo, it should have read 0.90mm

mart :)
 
Almost 1mm will make a racket. Hopefully you've sorted it.
The cover screws have a long shank and stop collar. They will spring when tight enough.


Sent somehow.
 
Steptoe said:
The "clacking" noise you're describing as you rotate the engine is the cam chain tensioner, perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. To set the engine at TDC on the firing stroke put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel, watch the inlet valves open and then close, insert a Straw or thin screwdriver down the spark plug hole, turn the rear wheel and when the straw/screwdriver is pushed out to its maximum point that's TDC on the firing/ compression stroke - don't forget you must do this for each cylinder. I only ever use a single feeler gauge on a single valve at a time. Why complicate and over think the most simple of jobs by using multi feeler gauges ��
Click to expand...

Read it and weep bitches. It really is a simple job to do.

2017-03-18%2017.46.52.jpg
 
OK, update time ..

All done :jibber

Couple of things i noticed ... the rubber cap that sits between the rocker cover and the plug

turret, was nicked quite badly on the LH bank, so no doubt that puppy will leak.

I'll order a couple of spares tomorrow.

Spark plugs, book says 23nm torque, typical, I have a wrench that goes to 25nm, but it's

1/4" and the plug socket is 3/8" and yup they don't do an up converter

My big wrench only goes down to 29, so no joy from that one.

I hand tightened then, and then gave them a nip, but I'm not sure, as the crush washers

have already been crushed.

I don't want to whack em up, as I've seen the feckers strip, but then again i don't want to

blow them out of the head.

Any tips ?


I'm going to leave starting it until tomorrow morning, its too dark now to be looking for leaks etc ..


Mart
 
Spark plugs dont need to be mad tight.

Give them a good hard nip tight holding the the butt end of your ratchet to reduce your leverage . Not the handle. You will be fine.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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