Wear 'n' Tear or Warranty Claim?

I kept the bike clean, hand dried after a wash and coated with FS365 ..........

Paint flaking off the drive shaft & rear Shock has rust :banghead:
 
Having a new one sitting in the shed now I'm starting to lose a little bit of confidence...its been covered in ACF50, I guess I will keep an eye on it. The new KTM looks mega though..

I hate ACF50, have only used it on one bike, and never had corrosion on any of my bikes. I was talking to a dealer a few weeks ago, and he said that most of the bikes with corrosion had been covered in the stuff. Apparently, people apply it before the winter, ride the bike all winter, then are surprised when they see rust!:blast
 
I hate ACF50, have only used it on one bike, and never had corrosion on any of my bikes. I was talking to a dealer a few weeks ago, and he said that most of the bikes with corrosion had been covered in the stuff. Apparently, people apply it before the winter, ride the bike all winter, then are surprised when they see rust!:blast

This statement runs counter to every other thing I've read about ACF50. Are you sure the dealer knows what he's talking about?

You said you only used it on one of your bikes, and none of your bikes have ever had any corrosion on them - therefore by definition the ACF50 must've worked. So why do you hate ACF50? It can't be for lack of anti-corrosion properties. Maybe you hate cleaning it off after it's done its job. :confused::confused::confused:
 
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This statement runs counter to every other thing I've read about ACF50. Are you sure the dealer knows what he's talking about?

You said you only used it on one of your bikes, and none of your bikes have ever had any corrosion on them - therefore by definition the ACF50 must've worked. So why do you hate ACF50? It can't be for lack of anti-corrosion properties. Maybe you hate cleaning it off after it's done its job. :confused::confused::confused:

On the bike that had ACF50, I continued to wash the bike through the winter, and reapply the ACF50.

Now, I rinse and dry the bike after every ride, and although it's a hassle, the bikes remain corrosion free. The problem with the product is that some people apply it, ride the bike in the rain, which washes some of it off the vulnerable areas, then are surprised when they find corrosion later on.

I don't hate the product, but it's not the miracle cure that a lot of people think it is.
 
You shouldn't get corrosion on a newish bike regardless of cleaning. They need to improve the finish.
 
I don't necessary think this is all about the paint finish. Some of this to do with with manufacturing processes and assembly.
Firstly once salt is distributed on the roads it is a long time before all the residue is completely washed away. On a dry road in winter after salting and rain there will still be fine salt powder which is sucked up and blown about by passing vehicles.
As regards the maufacturing processes, if you look around the bike, particularly the engine, there are milled areas where there are bolt heads. This is bare aluminium. Any moisture, particularly with salt content, will start to corrode. The corrosion, initially unnoticed, will creep under adjacent paintwork, spread and eventually start to lift the paint finish no matter how good it is.
If paint was applied in the milled areas the bolt would rip through it whilst being tightened exposing aluminium underneath. Even a washer underneath the bolt head would cause the paint to fracture.
As you see with cheaper diamond cut alloy wheels they start to corrode on sharp edges where paint cannot adhere, whereas properly finished wheels with all edges rounded will generally be more resistant to corrosion.
The only chance you have of preventing the initial corrosion is to coat bare aluminium in something like ACF 50 as a moisture barrier and re apply regularly. Chances are that unless you start this process from brand new the corrosion creep may have already started in some areas particularly those that can hold moisture longer.
 
We seem to be going backwards.

My other bike a classic Honda 750 from the 1970's has no corrosion issues.

I have owned it since 1984 ridden it through winters and just kept it clean with regular washing and polishing never using ACF 50 or anything similar.

Buying a new GS is for most of us a major purchase that can take years to afford, to then see your bike affected by corrosion in a few months must be soul destroying.

Come on BMW we deserve better!

Cars from the 1970's and 1980's used to rot away in no time and were often scrapped before they were ten years old but fortunately today this is no longer the case and a well looked after modern car can be expected to last around twenty years.

If the manufacturers can sort it out for cars I'm sure they can do the same for bikes.
 
I agree, The "just ride it brigade" maybe don't appreciate its a massive purchase for most, Im certainly not a rich man and work my tits off for my bikes, My GSA is the single (apart from the house) most expensive thing I have bought. It was that or a car and decided to keep my spotter of a 4x4. Too see, or even hear, about these issue on one of the most expensive bikes in the main stream is shocking.
 
BMW to replace the Engine, drive shaft housing and rear shock!

Engine No3 .................

Will I finally have an engine that is capable of getting to 6000 miles without flacking out on me?
 
BMW to replace the Engine, drive shaft housing and rear shock!

Engine No3 .................

Will I finally have an engine that is capable of getting to 6000 miles without flacking out on me?

That's good that BMW are replacing it.:thumb

Surely someone at BMW must be asking themselves why this is happening, and what they can do to sort it, permanently.
 
Just been out for a ride today as the weather's been nice and discovered similar white oxidisation pock marks on the engine block next to the right hand cylinder head like the bottom photo. There are a few other marks like this on the final drive and a bit of paint lifting around the lower engine mounts.

It doesn't get ridden in winter, but my crappy concrete garage suffers from condensation.

I don't think it's any worse than my previous RT and GS though - I might mention it when it goes in for the 12600 mile service just before the warranty runs out and see what BMW say :confused:
 
That's good that BMW are replacing it.:thumb

Surely someone at BMW must be asking themselves why this is happening, and what they can do to sort it, permanently.

While people keep buying poorly finished expensive motorbikes BMW will keep selling poorly finished expensive bikes. No commercial pressure to change if they are still selling well.
 
Why do BMW replace the whole engine over a few casing corrosion issues? :confused:
 


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