What a fecking daft arrangement ....!

Here are the bars in question (up some Romanian main road!!):

IMG_0462-1.jpg


Greg
 
I've got those awkward bars too. Had to do an oil change on Sunday. What really bugs me is that when refitting them I always trap my fingers between the bars ans sump guard.

I keep refitting them because I occasionally drop the bike offroad and want the protection.

Regards

Rob C
 
That's why I ditched the bars on my 1100 (although not quite the faff that you've had) - currently on the waiting list for some of Steppers head guards...


I didn't wait... missed out on the first production run. So I typed 'steptoe guards' into ebay daily search.. after a couple of weeks the email came. a set were for sale. MINT... not a mark.

So.. in the last few seconds I bid £1 less than Steptoe had sold them for (less postage) and won them... result.

I'd got the Idea that Steptoe wasn't going to do any more headguards due to all the faffng about involved... the hole drilling and testing each set was wearing his patience.. for little profit. be good if he did some though. Mine are always being asked about. I was quizzed left right and centre at the Timmelsjoch last week. Not just about them... but where was my sump guard, decals.. and why did I only have half a vario screen?

nein sprachen deutch and a blank look was my answer, :augie


Had those bars on my first GS.. sold em when the bike came off warranty. £150 as I recall.. and rued the day and cash paid to dealers for the extra time involved in what now takes... 10 minutes all-in.
 
Is that 10 minutes to do an engine oil change? Aren't you forgetting the necessary 4 hour ride (I should start telling my missus this) to get the oil nice and warm first?

Regards

Rob C
 
1) Find a friendly welders.

2) Ensure bars are correctly fitted and aligned.

3) Source a small piece of 6mm thick by ~25mm wide stainless flat bar. 250mm length should be enough

4) Fabricate 4 plates long enough to weld to crash bar with enough space alongside to take a 10mm thread nut and bolt. Drill 10.5mm diameter hole through centre of available space on plate beyond where bar will be welded.

5) Buy 4 10mm x ~22mm stainless bolts & nylock nuts.

6) Cut 12mm section out of bars each side at vertical section. Cuts must be straight and square to tube or at least parallel to each other

7) Get welding operative from 1) above to weld 1 plate from 4) above to each of the cut ends.

8) Insert bolts from 5) above through holes in plates and tighten.

Next oil change will be simples:D

If my assumption that crash bars are stainless is wrong just buy mild steel plate and some paint. Still use stainless fixings though.:thumb2
 
1) Find a friendly welders.

2) Ensure bars are correctly fitted and aligned.

3) Source a small piece of 6mm thick by ~25mm wide stainless flat bar. 250mm length should be enough

4) Fabricate 4 plates long enough to weld to crash bar with enough space alongside to take a 10mm thread nut and bolt. Drill 10.5mm diameter hole through centre of available space on plate beyond where bar will be welded.

5) Buy 4 10mm x ~22mm stainless bolts & nylock nuts.

6) Cut 12mm section out of bars each side at vertical section. Cuts must be straight and square to tube or at least parallel to each other

7) Get welding operative from 1) above to weld 1 plate from 4) above to each of the cut ends.

8) Insert bolts from 5) above through holes in plates and tighten.

Next oil change will be simples:D

If my assumption that crash bars are stainless is wrong just buy mild steel plate and some paint. Still use stainless fixings though.:thumb2

It's easier to take the tank off!

:blast

Greg
 

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