What kind of oil in the R1200GS?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kave
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Check this month's (August '04) TWO, there's a feature on why engines DO still require running in.

DEFINITELY dump the synthetic oil right away and put mineral oil in. Since BMW recommend Castrol oils, the one to use for now is GP, followed by GPS (semi-synthetic) once it stops using oil.

If Castrol are telling us to use cheaper stuff, and Mobil say use their expensive stuff, who do you trust? ;)

I used to work for BMW as a bike Tech. This advice is EXACTLY what I would have given about any R 259 (boxer) engine.
I'm sure it's still good advice, but I'm outta the loop now. If your really really bothered ring BMW and see if you can speak to their tech people. I won't put the names here in case I ever want to work for tem again.
I recon It's pretty safe to go GP first 20k miles then GPS forget fully syth. The engine may never stop consuming oil so I wouldn't wait for it to happen. The permissable amount of oil consumption is quite high. I can't remember exactly but something like a litre every 1500KM.
 
I really think its a waste of money putting pure synthetic oil in R-series bikes but that is my personal opinion.

Current Users Manual says:

Use 20W50 "engine oil"
BMW recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10000km
BMW recommends Castrol

But it also gives a table of permitted viscosity values where 10W40 comes out top for use between -10 and +30 degrees celcius. If you never ride when its frosty something beginning with 15W or 20W is fine, but if you insist on the full brass-monkey experience you need something beginning with 5W (down to -20). Hotter climes need oils ending in W50.

Synthetic oils are better able to cover the full range eg 5W50 but they are expensive.

The more interesting question is, can you happily use oils intended for car use, for the life of the bike?
 
Do a search and watch many hundreds appear before your eyes just in the 1200 section alone........either that or just pm Tarka, im sure he'll be more than happy to help, just don't tell him I sent you:rolleyes:
 
Just had an e-mail back from Castrol in reply to my Query as where I can obtain Mineral 20-50 to API SF / SG (ACEA A2) in my locality. Bottom line is that it,s not and that Castrol recomend "High Mileage" 20-50 !!. My BMW Dealer, whom is about 40 Miles away used the above spec oil which is supplied by BMW and is available from Dealers in 1 Litre Containers. It,s my opinion that the Boxer Engine with it,s Dry Clutch and Separate Gearbox does not need a sophisticated Semi / Full Synthetic Oil with all the fancy Addictives. Trouble is that having trawled around lots of Motor Parts Outlets it seems that all of the Mineral 20-50 Oils are currently aimed at the "Budget High Mileage Car Engine" market and that for a "Quality" 20-50 Mineral Oil I will need to return to my Dealer for the BMW Badged Product. (which is probably Castrol anyway)
Mike Tee.
 
Just had an e-mail back from Castrol in reply to my Query as where I can obtain Mineral 20-50 to API SF / SG (ACEA A2) in my locality. Bottom line is that it,s not and that Castrol recomend "High Mileage" 20-50 !!. My BMW Dealer, whom is about 40 Miles away used the above spec oil which is supplied by BMW and is available from Dealers in 1 Litre Containers. It,s my opinion that the Boxer Engine with it,s Dry Clutch and Separate Gearbox does not need a sophisticated Semi / Full Synthetic Oil with all the fancy Addictives. Trouble is that having trawled around lots of Motor Parts Outlets it seems that all of the Mineral 20-50 Oils are currently aimed at the "Budget High Mileage Car Engine" market and that for a "Quality" 20-50 Mineral Oil I will need to return to my Dealer for the BMW Badged Product. (which is probably Castrol anyway)
Mike Tee.



Millers Oils Brighouse for all your needs, have a look on their website, even have outsales shop dependant on how far north in North Yorkshire you are.
 
I've been using Halfords classic car 20-50 to top mine up and its been running fautlessly for well over a month now:thumb2

Shep
 
I've been using Halfords classic car 20-50 to top mine up and its been running fautlessly for well over a month now:thumb2

Shep
Mmmmmm, you could put cooking oil in and it would run faultlessly for well over a month. I think its worth putting decent stuff in for long term anti wear IMHO
 
Just had an e-mail back from Castrol in reply to my Query as where I can obtain Mineral 20-50 to API SF / SG (ACEA A2) in my locality. Bottom line is that it,s not and that Castrol recomend "High Mileage" 20-50 !!. My BMW Dealer, whom is about 40 Miles away used the above spec oil which is supplied by BMW and is available from Dealers in 1 Litre Containers. It,s my opinion that the Boxer Engine with it,s Dry Clutch and Separate Gearbox does not need a sophisticated Semi / Full Synthetic Oil with all the fancy Addictives. Trouble is that having trawled around lots of Motor Parts Outlets it seems that all of the Mineral 20-50 Oils are currently aimed at the "Budget High Mileage Car Engine" market and that for a "Quality" 20-50 Mineral Oil I will need to return to my Dealer for the BMW Badged Product. (which is probably Castrol anyway)
Mike Tee.

My local Hight St branch of http://www.motor-world.co.uk/ has 20W/50 Duckhams oil in stock. I think it has an SF or SJ rating. Weirdly, the larger out of town branch in Hereford doesn't stock it.

Price is £7.99 for 4 or 5 litres.
 
A certain BMW dealer in N. Cambs sells Motul 20-50 at £4-50 a litre.

Check out 'Morris's' lubricants....They call theirs V twin m/cycle oil.
 
yeah but....... at this time of the year you really need 10W40
 
yeah but....... at this time of the year you really need 10W40


But as I understand the numbers are the temperatures in fahrenheit in which the oil will remain viscous for engine start up .So 20w40 will be correct in temp of -7 deg. celcius to plus 4 .If its minus 7 I am not going riding any way!!
10w oil will be good down to -12 c which is defintely time to take the car :rob:rob
 
But as I understand the numbers are the temperatures in fahrenheit in which the oil will remain viscous for engine start up .

Wrong. The numbers are a viscosity index as measured using some kind of standardized test equipment at a certain temperature. The reason you have a pair of numbers is that modern oils are multigrade. In the old days, you would have a summer oil and a winter oil and would change it twice a year.

The SAE number (does that really stand for something like Society of Automobile Engineers? I think we should be told) of 20W50 for example is the same as a SAE20 oil in the winter and SAE50 oil in the summer, or supposedly so.
 


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