Why won't BMW make a decent gearbox ?

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Thankyou!................................which is the bit you need to twiddle :D:confused:
 
Looking at mine today , engine switched off and in first gear with the clutch pulled in it takes 2 people to push it forward, definitely a case of the clutch not clearing properly
 
Fun this isn't it? Me thinks that the twiddly bit (if it indeed really exists), is inaccessible. I even doubt that the twiddly bit exists but hey I'm keenly awaiting info.
 
I don't know if the picture embedding is going to work correctly, but here are a couple of pictures that may help if you don't know what the clutch master cylinder plunger is (on the left grip).

Here is the clutch master cylinder plunger

http://1drv.ms/1z864tT

Here is the view looking up at the locking screw, which you need to loosen before turning the plunger in or out:

http://1drv.ms/1z85yvW
 
If your lever adjustment is already on 4 and it is not disengaging enough to find neutral, you can also adjust the master cylinder plunger using a small (2 or 3 mm, can't remember which) allen wrench. Loose the cross (locking) screw and then screw the plunger in or out to adjust as needed, then tighten the locking screw again.

You're right, the lever is on 4 and it isn't disengaging. I'll see if I can locate the adjuster and let you know what happens. I took s new GSA for a test ride last weekend and it had no gearbox issues at all - almost as good as a Suzuki, so it's possible that some people's problem may be solved by adjustment. Why oh why the factory/dealer does not test this prior to delivery is beyond me - mine has acted the same since the day I picked it up.
 
did anyone adjust that plunger ?
and the result ?
thanks.

Well, I adjusted mine when the bike was nearly new. However, I screwed it in a bit so that the clutch engages (stops slipping) closer to the bar (like most of my previous bikes). I have long fingers, but from the factory mine was set up so that the clutch only engaged near the end of the lever travel, even with the lever set to 1. Since adjusting mine, I've never had much problem with shifting or finding neutral or doing takeoffs without overrevving on my 2013 with 14k miles on it.

It sounds like some folks have the opposite problem, the clutch never completely disengages (decouples the drive train), even with the lever on 4? They would doing the opposite adjustment to mine in that case.
 
I've had a play with my 2014 build WC and the results seem to be as I expected i.e. no change. The bike still clunks and grates in gears 1 and 2 regardless of the screw setting. It seems similar to adjusting a cable on a push bike in that adjusting this screw only affects the biting point at the lever as has been suggested by earlier posts. To be fair though, I've never had an issue with finding neutral and this little experiment was purely to try and solve IMHO the appalling gear change.
 
Hi, I've got a 2015 GS WC with almost 2000 km and have also the same "problem" with my gearbox. After break in, its getting better (probably it's me that is getting used to it).
Because I commute daily in city traffic, this issue becames more visible and i wonder if it's not damaging the box.
Since I ride everyday with my wife, I've noticed that the 1-2-3 clunk is bigger when riding with the esa in 2 helmets setting.
Despite this "little" issue, the bike is awesome.
 
I recently has the GSAP (quickshifter) fitted - it makes a big difference. If you get the revs/load right, you can shortshift 1-2 with nary a clunk.
 
Any news from the OP? :nenau

Bike now has about 4000kms up, gearbox remains clunky in the first three gears up or down ; doesn't seem to be improving.
Unless the shift from fourth to third is definite and firm, it can be a shocker, with many teeth felt on the change.

I have not tried altering the setting of the clutch lever because a) it's set where it suits my hand, and b) I shouldn't have to on a $29,000 motorcycle.

Phil
 


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