Wiring diagram R1250GS

[P248]

Well, I finally got round to moving the OEM fog lights to the engine bars on my GS. I decided to try extending the GS harness before shelling out for a GSA harness which I'm not certain would be long enough. I used 11.5 amp thin walled automotive cabling and solder and seal connectors. When I connected up the extended harness everything worked correctly and no faults came up on the TFT. Now all I've got to do is thread it through the bike in its final position.

 

[khelmers]

As @MF-Racing retrofitted his Nano lights, I take the liberty to chime in.

I did this 'operation' on my -19 1250 GSA, and did some tests prior to installing, in my case, a CAN-switch.

From the bike, the lights are fed, as already mentioned, through #1 and #3. Both lights are fed from the same source, and the bike is only able to switch them on/off as a pair. There are however two cables that are connected to only one of the lights. I suspect this reports back in case of failure, but this is not confirmed. Anyway, I left them as is, so it does not matter.

The peculiar thing though is that the +12V in the connector is a steady-on supply, and using the switch on the left mirror bracket is closing/opening the ground only. Attempting to disconnect both +12V and GND did throw a fault code on my bike, while disconnecting the +12V cable only did not trigger a warning. (by warning, I mean a fault code requiring GS-911 or similar readout. No warning on the TFT)

My solution:
Since the connector feeds both lights from the same pin, I opened up the harness after the cable is split in a Y, and then I cut the +12V cable , red/blue, for each of the lights. This enabled me to control each light separate, allowing them to flash in faze with the signal lights.

The connector is located on the left side, slightly behind the left signal light. In order to make life easy, I pulled out the harness and did my soldering on the bench.
So.. The only soldering I did was to cut the red/blue to each light, hooked up the red/blue on the light-side to a extended cable to the CANswitch and left the connector side of the red/blue not connected, but insulated since it still carry voltage.

The Rep DVD shows an excellent diagram that shows the routing of the harness to the AUX lights.

I did the job for not too long ago, but so far, no fault code (as read by GS-911).

This way, in order to switch the lights on the switch on left mirror bracket must be used (it controls the grounding of the lights).

The only limiting factor is that when stopping the bike, the lights will not fade slowly to off, as the bike shuts them off right away (by cutting the ground). I find this to be acceptable, as the setup allows the full function of the bikes fault-controll.

Regarding the fault codes, the catch is, if the bike throws a fault code the bike will not accept ANY software updates as long as there are unresolved fault-codes, hence the importance of avoiding them, even if nothing shows on the TFT

Hi @knutk , thank you for your explanation. this weekend i was trying to fixv the OEM fog lights with the EZcan. Whoever, it still comes up with the fault error (right fog light defect).

What i did:
i cut the red/blue on both sides of the fog light , connected the 12v pos. to the Ezcan and left red/blue cut (and sealed)
Each red/blue goes via one channel to the Ezcan (meaning 2 seprate cables)

My question:
What did i do wrong?
//
Do i need the cut the red/blue before the connector on the left side of the bike (behind signal light) and connect this to the Ezcan?
Or after?
If it's after than it's the same as i did.

Before or after the Y split?

Thank you for your reaction,

,Kevin
BMW R1250 GSA (2022)

 

[knutk]

Hi @knutk , thank you for your explanation. this weekend i was trying to fixv the OEM fog lights with the EZcan. Whoever, it still comes up with the fault error (right fog light defect).

What i did:
i cut the red/blue on both sides of the fog light , connected the 12v pos. to the Ezcan and left red/blue cut (and sealed)
Each red/blue goes via one channel to the Ezcan (meaning 2 seprate cables)

My question:
What did i do wrong?
//
Do i need the cut the red/blue before the connector on the left side of the bike (behind signal light) and connect this to the Ezcan?
Or after?
If it's after than it's the same as i did.

Before or after the Y split?

Thank you for your reaction,

,Kevin
BMW R1250 GSA (2022)

How did you connect the ground?

As long as the OEM lights keeps their remaining wires (i.e Brown/white/orange) connected, there should not be an error issue.

This means that the OEM lights keep their grounding through the brown internal ground cable.

If you disconnect the brown cable and replace it with a regular ground connection, the lights will work, but they will not switch off by using the OEM handlebar switch, and they will throw an internal error code.

This means that the ground cable from EZ can either should be wired directly to a random ground point anywhere on the bike, and leave the lights grounded through the brown OEM wire . (I would even try to omit grounding the EZcan wire, in case the output are internally grounded allready)

 

[khelmers]

How did you connect the ground?

As long as the OEM lights keeps their remaining wires (i.e Brown/white/orange) connected, there should not be an error issue.

This means that the OEM lights keep their grounding through the brown internal ground cable.

If you disconnect the brown cable and replace it with a regular ground connection, the lights will work, but they will not switch off by using the OEM handlebar switch, and they will throw an internal error code.

This means that the ground cable from EZ can either should be wired directly to a random ground point anywhere on the bike, and leave the lights grounded through the brown OEM wire . (I would even try to omit grounding the EZcan wire, in case the output are internally grounded allready)

Thank you @knutk for your reaction!

As long as the OEM lights keeps their remaining wires (i.e Brown/white/orange) connected, there should not be an error issue.
This means that the OEM lights keep their grounding through the brown internal ground cable.
The cables are untouched original and connected as you mentioned. (but still error on the dash)
i only cut the red/blue at the side of the fog lights (ezcan red/ble goes into the fog lights)
All the features work as desired (on/off handle bar, strobe, dimming etc.)

I'm lost...

 

[knutk]

Thank you @knutk for your reaction!

As long as the OEM lights keeps their remaining wires (i.e Brown/white/orange) connected, there should not be an error issue.
This means that the OEM lights keep their grounding through the brown internal ground cable.
The cables are untouched original and connected as you mentioned. (but still error on the dash)
i only cut the red/blue at the side of the fog lights (ezcan red/ble goes into the fog lights)
All the features work as desired (on/off handle bar, strobe, dimming etc.)

I'm lost...

Well, I am honestly running out of suggestions...

My bike is a -19, and I did the very same thing (with no issues), except that I used a CANswitch rather than the EZcan (but it should not make a difference).I have no experience with a -22, but it sounds weird if they have changed the software for the lights. (but then again, some people will claim that 'weird is BMW's middle name)

 

[neilma]

A bit of a thread resurrection so apologies - I am getting the same issue as Kevin above having completed this over the weekend.

I only cut the blue/red wire on the nanos and fed that to a seperate channel on the EZcan. The other 3 wires remained untouched for each light.

Everything works fine, except - everytime I use the indicators (I have the spots set to turn off when indicating), I get errors on the dash saying the left or right light is malfunctioning. It goes after about 5 seconds.

A couple of things I thought to try....

1. Ground the output of the EZcan channels? I only have the 1 wire (Orange) connected to the Blue/Red for each light/channel so far. No grounds connected.
2. Try grounding the light to the EzCan (although reading above suggests I definitely will get errors) - However this is what EzCan suggest doing on their website?
3. Add a load resistor? Would that work? Anyone tried this?

Thanks
Neil

 

[neilma]

A bit of a thread resurrection so apologies - I am getting the same issue as Kevin above having completed this over the weekend.

I only cut the blue/red wire on the nanos and fed that to a seperate channel on the EZcan. The other 3 wires remained untouched for each light.

Everything works fine, except - everytime I use the indicators (I have the spots set to turn off when indicating), I get errors on the dash saying the left or right light is malfunctioning. It goes after about 5 seconds.

A couple of things I thought to try....

1. Ground the output of the EZcan channels? I only have the 1 wire (Orange) connected to the Blue/Red for each light/channel so far. No grounds connected.
2. Try grounding the light to the EzCan (although reading above suggests I definitely will get errors) - However this is what EzCan suggest doing on their website?
3. Add a load resistor? Would that work? Anyone tried this?

Thanks
Neil

Replying to my own thread but hope this helps others out. Before I attempted to try any of the above, I noticed the new GS911 update which showed you could add or remove the LED Aux lights (I am not sure if that was always there) - Anyway - Just tried it and no more errors !! The only "problem" is that by disabling the lights, you cant turn them on or off via the handlebar button (and see the little green light on the dash) but of course, you can turn them on or off via the indicator cancel button with the EZcan.

Now the standard BMW Aux lights are fully controlled via the EZ Can and the strobing etc all works fine with no dash errors and no need to cut more wires or run new cables etc. Perfect!

Hope that helps some of you that were seeing dash errors assuming you or a mate has a GS911