You all told me.....

Stick 2.6 or 2.8 tyres will make a fair difference in height for you btw, that Giant I tried had 2.6's on, guy said he was thinking of putting 2.8 DH tyres on but those 2.6's were enormous. Udders may be able to point you in the direction of DH tyres possibly.

*EDIT you might struggle to get plus sized tyres to fit your bike ??

The tolerances on mtb tyres and frames / brakes / swing arms / mudguard mounts etc isn’t that great. You need to be very careful if you want to put wider tyres on.

I did change the tyres on my downhill bike to highly sticky tubeless ones. They were chuffing expensive. :blast I honestly can’t remember if they were wider though. I don’t think they were but will check next time I venture to my storage unit.
 
Saying that about shorter crank arms my ( ex ) mate has a Fantic emtb ( he has to be different so he gets the attention he craves, prick ) and was struggling to ride it on eco mode. He asked me to try it once. :eek: It was like riding a clowns bike! Fecking awful! The arms were way too short to get any sort of power stroke into the crank. He didn’t appreciate the piss taking and circus noises I made after that! :D
 
The tolerances on mtb tyres and frames / brakes / swing arms / mudguard mounts etc isn’t that great. You need to be very careful if you want to put wider tyres on.

I did change the tyres on my downhill bike to highly sticky tubeless ones. They were chuffing expensive. :blast I honestly can’t remember if they were wider though. I don’t think they were but will check next time I venture to my storage unit.

just ordered maxxis tubeless 3.0 wide for my giant e+ pro ..hope they fit!! research says they should
 
trance, 2.6 at mo, still plenty of room, its when it gets muddy there could be problems
 
I think on road bikes you can buy and fit shorter crank arms , not sure if this is the case with E MTB, a shorter crank might give you more Ground clearance .

Shorter cranks on road bikes are used for ergonomics i.e. to match a person's size, leg length etc so as to maximise power output whilst keeping a good pedal stroke and optimising comfort. If you start feckin about with crank length just to increase ground clearance then you can cause all kind of other issues relating to how you pedal on the bike.
 
You're sure to hit ruts or tree roots that no matter what clearance you have, or how short your cranks are...you will ground out. It's simply about reading the trail...isn't it?

Yes, it really is that simple.

If you were taking a 4x4 off road, the first thing you'd do is look underneath and see where the low points were, and you'd modify your approach accordingly.

Don't ground out you bike, then blame its clearance ffs!!!!
 
Ok, so anyone that wants to not suffer from a sore arse, here’s what I’ve done.

1. Fitted a Charge Spoon seat
2. Apply chamois cream before every ride
3. Wear these (they’re inside out in the pic for some odd reason) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NCUZ0H9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4. Apply haemorrhoid cream at night to sort the saddle sore from before :eek: :D

How you finding the seat? I’m expecting mine to be delivered either tomorrow or the next day :thumb
 
How you finding the seat? I’m expecting mine to be delivered either tomorrow or the next day :thumb

It’s good, much better than the stock seat. Let’s face it, no seat is going to be the height of luxury on an mtb, but it’s the best of the few that I’ve tested, IMO.
 
Anyone upgraded they're seat on the cube 140 and want to sell the standard one?
Went out on the Mrs 140 today and found the seat perfect compared to the 160 i have, they're both Venec but the 140 is the LITE version apparently.
 
Anyone upgraded they're seat on the cube 140 and want to sell the standard one?
Went out on the Mrs 140 today and found the seat perfect compared to the 160 i have, they're both Venec but the 140 is the LITE version apparently.

Nutty has a choice of 15 seats ...
 
So, 1000 miles done on the ebike now, and I’m loving it. Not a single issue with the bike, brakes are brilliant, gears work perfectly. Normally by now, you can expect the odd slipping gear, creak/ rattle etc, but this bike is as good as the day I got it. Apart from a few scratches and chips, but I can confirm that it crashes well!

Being a German company though, I think that Cube share BMW’s painting techniques, as the paint work does seem to chip rather easily. On a mountain bike costing this much, it’s quite annoying. I’ve emailed Cube a couple of times for the paint codes, and to ask if they can supply some more fork decals where the crash tore them, but they haven’t bothered to reply. A mate works in a body shop, so is going to get a colour match for me.

Overall though, I’m really glad I got this bike. I’ve been places I wouldn’t have gone if I didn’t have one, and it’s keeping me fit. According to the Bosch software, it’s been ridden switched off for 79% of the time of that 1000 miles, so that blows any theories of ebikes doing all the work!

If you’re thinking of going down the ebike route, just do it. I can highly recommend this particular model of Cube, but if the others are as reliable as this one, you won’t be disappointed. :beerjug:
 

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And the seat?.............I’m not that impressed with the charge spoon :rolleyes:
 
And the seat?.............I’m not that impressed with the charge spoon :rolleyes:

Same here. :blast

I’m back on the original seat! If anyone on here wants the Spoon, send me a PM.
 
Of 1000 miles you've done 790 without the motor being switched on ?

I would think more like - no assistance. Unless Nutty switches it off during a ride and I wouldn't know why you would want to do that? As the bike only gives you help when you need it (torque sensing etc).
 


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