If youve replaced the w=switch and ZFE and confirmed both ok
then yuo have a broken wire or bad earth
then yuo have a broken wire or bad earth
ZFE and switch gear update.
- Thread starter Slime Bomb
- Start date
Yes, I've checked all earths and all are fine so it points to a broken wire but where the feck do I start...
Believe me it's getting very close.Scrap it
Strip out the Canbus to find itYes, I've checked all earths and all are fine so it points to a broken wire but where the feck do I start...
Where is it and what's it look like?
Wires and controllers in a loom
Simpler bikes seem to outlast these modern inventions
Where are these wires and controllers in a loom? You are dead right about simpler bikes...
I'm not the sharpest tool when it comes to electrics.
they are just wires....
what canbus did was allow fewer smaller gauge wires operating at much lower power to control more and more features
its just basic networking sending gibberish to dim modules that operate more than one thing
look for clear damage, squashed, trapped broken sleeve, or insulation.... likely won't see any - but in areas where the wires flex back and forth (with the steering) inside what looks perfectly OK, weak cheap copper snaps and misbehaves
what canbus did was allow fewer smaller gauge wires operating at much lower power to control more and more features
its just basic networking sending gibberish to dim modules that operate more than one thing
look for clear damage, squashed, trapped broken sleeve, or insulation.... likely won't see any - but in areas where the wires flex back and forth (with the steering) inside what looks perfectly OK, weak cheap copper snaps and misbehaves
Thanks botus, I've looked everywhere and can't see any signs of wear. Like you say, likely wont see any. What a waist of a good bike.
?? say what
Canbus is a control system JB, not a module or wires you drop in and out
The OP's best way forward is
Using a wiring diagram - i found the starting charging one -
And the LH switch cluster
Continuity check the wiring from the ZFE to the switch connector - either as a end to end check, or ZFE to the next item in the chain
looks like X9070 is the switch connector
So continuity check from the relevant pins on the ZFE to the connector - no continuity = broken wire
and looking at the switch, you may have a broken wire in your switch pack as they seem to share a common connection and i note a small diode in there too
have you tried a known good cluster pack , it may be a you have 2 faulty units , I know the one i sent had a sticky high beam
If it is a continuity fault , its a ball ache, but you need to strip the loom either insections or as a whole
It took me most of the day to strip enough off my hexhead to get to the loom at the headstock to find the break
i do seem to recall others having a simiar issue, and the fault was the ABS module or similar ( or i may be barking up the wrong tree)
One other thing to check - battery is it good, failing batterys can cause canbus issues might be a good time to treat the old girl to a new pacemaker
Thank you for taking the time Santa. It all looks very confusing but I'll give it a go. It was putting a new battery on that seems to have caused the problem in the first place. 
Have you disconnected the battery fo 5 mins to let any soft errorc clearThank you for taking the time Santa. It all looks very confusing but I'll give it a go. It was putting a new battery on that seems to have caused the problem in the first place.
Yes, one of the first things I did. I've bitten the bullet and managed to get it booked in early at Manchester BMW on the 5th of August. I know it's going to cost an arm and a leg but it's got to be better than scraping it.
I did the man maths and it worked out really cheap...
I did the man maths and it worked out really cheap...
Ok, I took it in yesterday and it was booked in for two hours labour for diagnostics. They tested everything, all connections, breaks in wires and plugged it in to their diagnostics and came to the conclusion that it could only be the ZFE. So The one I bought and tried was perhaps a dud or the wrong one somehow. So I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a new one at £600! 
You can definitely get tied in knots with the ZFE module..... my mates 2010 RT caught fire a few years ago, the ZFE and connectors and the loom were toast. Bike was effectively scrap, so we sourced another loom & ZFE and stripped the bike and replaced everything. We got the "same" ZFE High module, but it had a different date code. Everything worked apart from the fuel gauge and the rear light, which was on "bright" all the time, just like the brake light switch was activated. We figured it out that the ZFE was off a K1200, as the back light on the RT has two bulbs which operate at 6v for tail light and 12v for brake light, the ZFE modulates the output. The K1200 also uses a traditional fuel sender not the strip used on the RT. We swapped to another "same" ZFE this fixed the fuel gauge but the electric screen and rear light still didn't work :-( We then searched for another used ZFE with the exact same spec and date code of 2009. We swapped it again and everything now seemed to work apart from the heated seats. I then used my Motoscan tool to enable that function/option in the ZFE programming and the seats then worked.
It took me a bit of headscratching to get everything figured out, but we got there in the end. The used complete wiring loom cost £75 and the ZFE's cost around £125 in total. The insurance wouldn't pay out for the bike and no local bike shops would touch it. So we got it all done for a couple of hundred quid and a few days labour. He still using it now
If you have a motoscan tool you can read the status of the switchgear inputs, so you can see if they are being recognised by the ZFE, the Motoscan tool can also force the outputs on to activate the circuit(s) which tells you if its a wiring fault.
It took me a bit of headscratching to get everything figured out, but we got there in the end. The used complete wiring loom cost £75 and the ZFE's cost around £125 in total. The insurance wouldn't pay out for the bike and no local bike shops would touch it. So we got it all done for a couple of hundred quid and a few days labour. He still using it now
If you have a motoscan tool you can read the status of the switchgear inputs, so you can see if they are being recognised by the ZFE, the Motoscan tool can also force the outputs on to activate the circuit(s) which tells you if its a wiring fault.
I thought they were becoming unobtainium -
trouble on the (german) cars they tell you stuff is no longer available, but in the old days a year later they run a batch and they are back for a while - but I think that's going to change merc no longer do their service exchange unit on anything (calipers, ECU, Amps, pumps etc.) and with the sudden massive collapse of the german economy I expect everything will soon stop
trouble on the (german) cars they tell you stuff is no longer available, but in the old days a year later they run a batch and they are back for a while - but I think that's going to change merc no longer do their service exchange unit on anything (calipers, ECU, Amps, pumps etc.) and with the sudden massive collapse of the german economy I expect everything will soon stop
The main dealer have a new ZFE coming and it's in the UK which means not much waiting time, so it's booked in to do the work next Thursday which I'm glad about because my MOT is up on the 26th so HOPFULLY... it will sort the problem if not then I'm £725 down and have a scrap bike to sell. Fingers crossed.
Mine was 1k. Luckily under warranty
Still fucking expensive for a few chips lol
Still fucking expensive for a few chips lol
