1150 GSA gear position indicator switch

daveg

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.....I’m guessing there isn’t a quick way to replace this without removing or at least displacing the swinging arm? I’ve been putting off doing it but have decided to bite the bullet now. I wouldn’t bother if it was just the display but it affects the starting as well because of the neutral sensor.
 
Looking more carefully it seems I might be able to get at it by removing the exhaust. I'm sure I read that the swinging arm needs to be removed to do the job but it may have been for the 1100 which is slightly different I think. I'll find out soon enough!
 
It's easy to replace in the 1150, unlike the 1100.

Just squeeze the spring clip arms together with long nosed pliers and it pulls out. To replace use a cable tie to hold the arms together and cut the tie when in place.

How marvelous of BMW to have such a simple method compared to the old 1100 switch........ well yes, sort of...have fun disconnecting and routing the plug on other end of the switch.
 
I'm completing this task at the moment - on a standard 1150GS. I dropped the y-piece though it may well have been possible with it in place. Swing-arm isn't an obstruction.
Had to cut the connector off the old switch to remove it from inside the frame.
Curiously the manual recommends OptimolyTA on the threads of the O2 sensor.
Looking forward to a neutral light and the engine running when on the side stand.
 
It's easy to replace in the 1150, unlike the 1100.

Just squeeze the spring clip arms together with long nosed pliers and it pulls out. To replace use a cable tie to hold the arms together and cut the tie when in place.

How marvelous of BMW to have such a simple method compared to the old 1100 switch........ well yes, sort of...have fun disconnecting and routing the plug on other end of the switch.
Thanks for the news Neil, good and bad :thumb:D
 
I'm completing this task at the moment - on a standard 1150GS. I dropped the y-piece though it may well have been possible with it in place. Swing-arm isn't an obstruction.
Had to cut the connector off the old switch to remove it from inside the frame.
Curiously the manual recommends OptimolyTA on the threads of the O2 sensor.
Looking forward to a neutral light and the engine running when on the side stand.
Hi TWG. I've still got the cat fitted with a stubby but I do have a Y piece and an Akrapovic so I might just remove the cat to make it easier and take the opportunity to give those a try.

Did you mean you cut the connector off the gear switch wiring? Steptoe did drop a not so subtle hint that this might be the tricky aspect! Have you got the new one installed?

Did you have a problem with the O2 sensor removal or fitting? I would just use copper grease, maybe that's wrong?
 
Hi TWG. I've still got the cat fitted with a stubby but I do have a Y piece and an Akrapovic so I might just remove the cat to make it easier and take the opportunity to give those a try.

Did you mean you cut the connector off the gear switch wiring? Steptoe did drop a not so subtle hint that this might be the tricky aspect! Have you got the new one installed?

Did you have a problem with the O2 sensor removal or fitting? I would just use copper grease, maybe that's wrong?

I expect you'll have to remove the cat. I can't imagine much access otherwise.
No problem with 02 sensor fortunately. Fitted a new sealing washer. I could have left the sensor attached and cable-tied the y-piece out of the way but I wanted to give it a polish. I was careful to unscrew the cat keeping the sensor stationary. Wires look vulnerable.
Yes, would have happily used a little copper-slip, being careful to keep it off the sensor.

I cut the old gear switch 'cos I was unable to unthread it from behind frame and ECU\ABS mounting. Threaded the new switch outside the frame.
 
I could have left the sensor attached and cable-tied the y-piece out of I was careful to unscrew the cat keeping the sensor stationary. Wires look vulnerable.
.

The wires are ok to twist - in fact when screwing the sensor back in place when it hasn't been unplugged give it 12 opposite thread twists, that way the wiring will be "straight " when it's screwed back in .
 
The wires are ok to twist - in fact when screwing the sensor back in place when it hasn't been unplugged give it 12 opposite thread twists, that way the wiring will be "straight " when it's screwed back in .

Okay. I was being a bit paranoid. Thinking about the possible cost of a sensor and having to remove the y-piece again.
Well, another little "enhancement" completed on my trusty 1150. Maybe throttle cables next.
 


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