Changing my own tyres

wintercat7

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So I will start off with yes I know its much easier to get a shop to do it, but where's the fun in that... :blast

I have bought the tyre changing kit from Abba. This has a bead breaker, tyre leavers and a balancing stand. Not cheap but over the years I was hoping it would pay for itself and gives me the freedom to change tyres as I wish.

A new set of Conti TA2's arrived yesterday.
Took of the rear wheel and with more effort than I expected got the old TA2 off.

Managed to get the new tyre on one side but cannot for the life of me get the other side on. Get about 70% of the tyre on but it is so tight cannot leaver the last 30% or so on. I will add I had a mate helping and we are both youngish and reasonably fit, not your average Tosser build.... :D

So what am I doing wrong? Anybody else got the Abba kit. Do I just need longer tyre leavers? Are the TA2's renowned for being a tight fit?
Cannot see for the life of me how one is meant to do this on your own out on the trail?

Thanks, Adam
 
I feel your pain, I went through the same frustrations when I bought my Abba kit for the same reasons. What I found is that you need to make sure that the tyre is forced past the beads on both sides .This gives you the room to get the last part of the tyre on. So you try to compress the tyre to the middle of the rim. Even then you are bound to sweat and struggle a little.
A far easier method is to use use large cable ties to compress the tyre all round. Use some lubricant, then easily place the tyre on the rim, cut off the cable ties and you are done. Places like Screwfix have suitable cable ties at a good price. There is a good Youtube tutorial video on this method. It really saves you damaging your rims with hefty tyre leavers!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Just buy the sealey manual tyre changer its much easier but I always do my own and much better as I now know they are balanced correctly and I wouldnt worry about balancing the rear one.
 
I've been using the same kit as you have for a while now. First off it's not about strength its about technique. First time for me it took 4 hours and several times I threw a tyre lever across the garage. I can now take one off and put a new one on in 15 minutes comfortably. Use plenty of lube all the way round the inside of both sides of the tyre. I use my knee on the tyre to keep it inside the well opposite from where I'm working. I also use the Abba bead breaker as a spare hand putting the new one on - I put it on at the 3 o'clock position to where I'm working and just screw it down enough to keep the tyre bead inside the wheel. As far as lever length is concerned I have two that are twelve inches long and they serve well. Once the tyre is on the last problem may be with getting the bead to seat so its airtight enough to put pressure in. If that is an issue, take the valve core out as that lets in air more quickly. If that doesn't work try putting a ratchet type band around the tyre and putting some pressure on that to push the tyre walls out against the bead. If this is what I have to do then I put some lube around the band to make sure its equal pressure around the tyre when you tighten it up otherwise it just tightens up in one place due to the grippy nature of the tyre. Once you've done it a few times it will all fit into place.
 
I took off a kc80 form my 1150 and fitted a Tourance as stated use plenty of lube and make sure the bead is in the wheel well, take small bites with the levers. As for sealing I put my portable compressor (12 volts plugged into ,van NOT bike) and left it, dident think it would go but heard a bang and bingo it was on!!. If you havent got an Abba put the wheel on a dustbin perfect work bench. Have changed many tubed tyres on one for years much easier than tubeless
 
Thanks for the great replys.
Greg thanks for that. Made a big differance and got the tyre on and finally the bead took and the rear is now on.
Gorila, yes was sweating much yesterday... Seen a couple of vids of that so will try it next time.
Struggling with the front now, just cannot get it off over the rim. The two tyre leavers supplied by Abba do not seem enough and really could do with another long one.
Am going to take the loose wheel to a shop and get them to do for now.

Anyone recommend some good tyre leavers.
Really like the bead breaker and the balancer but the Abba leavers do not seem that great.
 
For the front tire its much easier to put large cable ties around at 5 places and it goes on no problem. Check out you tube there's loads of vids of this. To take the old tire off, break the bead in a bench vice.
 
Bezzetti levers (I think that's the spelling) are what I use. If you think you need something longer than 12" you're doing it wrong.
 
It is all about technique and huge forces should not be required. The same principals apply to fitting and removing cycle tyres as apply to motorcycle tyres.

Lay the wheel on top of a spare tyre to raise it clear of the discs.

When removing the tyre get the bead into the well of the rim opposite the valve and start removing the tyre near the valve.

When fitting the tyre get the bead into the rim opposite the valve and finish fitting the bead near the valve. You can use a rubber mallet to bash the last section of the bead over the rim. Much better than using levers. Use tyre lube round the bead and round the inside of the tyre by the bead.

Once you learn the technique you will wonder why you found it so difficult when you started.
 
Aha !!
Welcome to my world! I started this process about 2 months ago on my KTM 1190 so that I could flick between road and off road quickly (and not depend on Watling tyres ..).

Agree with above - buzetti levers.

https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/...kC4w0re9xKvc95S8ETmmzx4DbIHQCeiWSEaAmA88P8HAQ

My only other advice would be, as Greg and Smug say, get the opposite side of where youre working right in the well of the rim. Like properly in the rim. Then check again - both hands ... squeeze the tyre beads and get both beads right in the depth of the rim. I just know that's what you're not doing!!

And on that ... always start at the valve taking them off, and opposite the valve putting them on. Especially if its TPS. As above - you won't get the opposite end in the depth of the well if there's a bloody great TPS valve there.

Think as much about the above as you do the working side and levers and you'll be ok. (use tyre soap too ... )



(look at the valve .... correct for putting on ... !!)

:thumb2
 
I've got a bead buddy but never used it. Infact, didn't know how to until I saw that picture. On the tire side wall there's a red dot. This is the lightest part of the tire. So line that up with the valve as thats the heaviest part of the wheel, especially if you've got tps sensors. This will minimize the need for balence weights and I find that if you replace the tire with the same brand as the old one ie, a new tourance to replace the old one then it shouldn't need re balencing. I've not had to re balence my wheels the last 3 times ive changed the tires.
 
When I used to fit tyres manually I used to use 3 quick clamps, to compress the tyre beads together, making it easier to stay in the well of the wheel, without them, they were always wanting to climb out somewhere, making it difficult to get anywhere near getting the last 8 inches of tyre in,

another trick if they won't seat, is to use a couple of mountain bike inner tubes, lightly blown up and stuffed in the gap between the tyre and the bead, once the bead expands enough to not leak against the rim, deflate and pull out the Mtb tubes,

nowadays I use the professional stuff purely because I have access to it!
 
Are you lubing the tire and rim with soapy water or WD40?

I changed my front tire last Month and a spray of WD40 made all the difference in getting the last bit of the Tire on the rim. Although "Tire Soap" is what you are suppose to use.
 

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Again thanks for all the replys.

Managed to get both tyres done and all seems good.
Technique is definitely the key. Getting the bead into the groove both getting the tyre on and off is key. Lube for getting the tyre off as well as on is very important.
I am going to send Abba an email. For the not inconsiderable prices that they charge for what is just box tube welded together they need MUCH better instructions. YouTube videos showing the technique would save a lot of people a lot of stress.
Also used up most of the weights balancing just two tyres. On the rear I incorrectly had the white dot opposite the valve, did it correctly by lining up the white dot with the valve on the front. Both tyres needed quite a bit of weight.
This is putting Conti TA2's on spoked rims with TPS on a 1200GS.
 
Good for you.

The more that you do it the easier it gets. Same technique for cycle tyres. When you get it right you can normally remove them without levers. It is frowned on to refit cycle tyres with levers.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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