Clutch bite point

Joca

Joca

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Hi
The clutch bite point of my 06 GS seems to have moved to very close to release point of lever. I've checked the fluid level and it's fine. Looks nice and clean too. Can't see any leaks either. And also the bike is difficult to start up. Seems easier when clutch depressed.
Anyone seen this before?
Any tips?
Thanks.
 
As the clutch wears the bite point moves towards the handguard and the fluid rises Have you tried adjusting it?
 
No not tried that yet. It seemed to just too fast to be wear. It's last couple of hundred mile.. How can I adjust it?
Thanks.
 
You can only alter the lever span which is done by adjusting the screw near the handgrip but it's a free try Otherwise it's possible that the slave cylinder is on the way out maybe?
 
I will try the lever adjuster but I think it just moves the position of the lever and not the biting point..
Thanks for your replies.
 
Clutch on mine bites the same as ever but too much fluid in master cylinder can affect things.
If there is reduced fluid level you probably have a leak. Check slave cylinder banjo.
If bite improves after bleeding but reverts the cause could be air leaking past the master cylinder seals. Look for bubbles escaping as you slowly move the lever.
I do not know where to buy new seals. BMW only sell a complete new master cylinder.
 
The fluid is quite high. Couldn't see any bubbles though. No leaks anywhere. The guide I linked to shows KTM have seals available. Bike is due at dealers for recall work and I'll inquire then (if nothing else, for a laugh at their attitude) 😀
 
Try cable tying the clutch lever overnight, that might release trapped air bubbles.

It's probably worth bleeding the clutch hydraulics with some fresh mineral oil based fluid NOT brake and clutch fluid.
 
The clutch bite point moving toward the hand-guard is symptomatic of the clutch plate wearing.

If you accelerate hard into 6th can you induce clutch slip?


Alex
 
Can't feel any clutch slip at all. And it seems to have moved a bit too quickly for clutch wear.. Bike has 33K and I've had it since 29K. I know I don't know how it was used before me but still seems a little too quick a change.
 
Joca said:
The fluid is quite high. Couldn't see any bubbles though. No leaks anywhere. The guide I linked to shows KTM have seals available. Bike is due at dealers for recall work and I'll inquire then (if nothing else, for a laugh at their attitude) ��
Click to expand...

Use a syringe to extract some oil from the reservoir. The bubbles I mentioned will only be visible in the reservoir with the cover off when you move the lever. No bubbles no worries.
 
That's my plan. just looking for adequate syringes on fleabay. It will be useful also if I need to replace the seals on the lever cylinder. Cheers.
 
Joca said:
That's my plan. just looking for adequate syringes on fleabay. It will be useful also if I need to replace the seals on the lever cylinder. Cheers.
Click to expand...

Let me know when you find some seals that fit. BMW offer only the complete master cylinder.
 
Bendy toy said:
It uses mineral oil so normal brake cylinder seals won't work.
Click to expand...
I thought it was the other way around, brake fluid is more corrosive than mineral oil. i use mineral oil in work and we use normal o-rings.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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