Comfy old boots bike service resto thread

[Comfy Old Boots]

Regarding the brake bleed, this is what I’ve found:

When you flush the system, the fresh fluid will still push through the open physical channels of the block manually, but the stagnant fluid trapped directly inside the dead pump circuit cannot be actively purged by software. Many UKGSer members facing this exact scenario simply perform a thorough traditional manual bleed (or use a vacuum bleeder) to clear out the lines and calipers, accepting that the inactive module block will hold a small pocket of old fluid until the motor is either repaired or left as-is, since the core safety-critical braking path remains entirely mechanical and direct.

Also, tried taking the headers off. The nuts at the headers came off without a fight! Yay!

The whole thing is still supported by a bracket somewhere under the shock and seems next to impossible to get to. Maybe it’ll be easier to access when I’ve the rear shock off. My brain is telling me to just leave it where it is. It’s a heavy unit.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Sorry more blathering.

I know mitivac is the vacume bleed kit of choice on Ukgser but I think I’m going to buy one of these:

Amazon.co.uk

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

For anyone else reading this dribble the starter relay works as follows:

• Pin 30 is battery power, all the time.
• Pin 87 is the output to the starter motor.
• Pin 87 only becomes live while the starter relay is being activated.

So on your 2007 GS:

• Key ON → Pin 87 is normally not live.
• Engine running → Pin 87 is normally not live.
• Press starter button → Pin 87 becomes live for the duration of cranking.

I'm trying to figure out how to only have the spots powered when the bike is on... Pin 87 does not feed the aux 12 v cig lighter on the beak, it powers the starter motor.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Anyhoo, today was quiet in work. I now understand how to wire in aux lights! Good to get to know the bike a lot better.

Bought these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09MD3WWH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21OSA7D7R04YS&th=1

Cheap as chips and really just want a bit more visibility on the road and a splash of light in front of me. time will tell!

One question. Which am i best using as the relay trigger? Rear light? Or best to buy a connector for the gps connector at front of tank? Any other options?


EDIT: It would be helpful If i explained how to do it!
In a nut shell, connect the aux power leads to the battery.
1 get a second relay.
2 wire the lights to the battery.
3 on the positive wire, cut it after the fuse and put that end into relay pin 30
4 put the other side of the cut positive aux power lead into pin 87
5 attach a ground to pin 85 (i'll probably use the negitive of the battery)
6 connect a switched trigger to 86.

If anyone has suggestions on the switched trigger other than the tail light I'd love to hear it. thankyou!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

EDIT OF THE EDIT

EDIT: It would be helpful If i explained how to do it!
In a nut shell, connect the aux power leads to the battery.
1 get a second relay.
2 wire the lights to the battery.
3 on the positive wire, cut it after the fuse and put that end into relay pin 30 (FUSE IS BETWEEN BATTERY AND NEW RELAY)
4 put the other side of the cut positive aux power lead into pin 87
5 attach a ground to pin 85 (i'll probably use the negitive of the battery)
6 connect a switched trigger to 86.

If anyone has suggestions on the switched trigger other than the tail light I'd love to hear it. thankyou!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Sorry for treating this like a diary but I guess it is in some ways. Rear wheel is as clean as I can get it. Pealing paint so I took the loose stuff off and put sine hammertoe silver on. Not a perfect match but good enough and secure. Taking front wheel off first thing in the morning, going to clean it to a similar level and bring the two down to Dave in the car. Get a set of Michelin road 6’s on.

Hoping he will give me a few inches of fuel line to replace a very soft bit I found between the quick connects.

I’ll pop into mechanical services in the morning at work. Try and borrow a monster torque wrench for the telelever ball joint. 230 nm ffs

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Planning on giving a run with a rag over any part of the frame I can get to under the tank and beak with acf 50

Who knows, I might finally start receiving some parts tomorrow and can start reassembling it all. Turned on ignition earlier. Brake failure dash warning is missing but I can’t remember if that came on with the engine on. I’ll be like a Chester cat if it was just the broken wire!

Bought some special fabric tape to give love time of the electrical connectors. 4 hours work to do tomorrow and off for 16 days. Loads of time

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Decided I need a comfy chair for my shed.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I’m on holidays for two weeks!

Thankyou to the Tosser who made this for me about 12 years ago! I’ve kept it safe and here I am again! This nut is 130nm right?

Next three days will be like Christmas will all the parts, fluids and tools arriving. Slow and steady wins the race. Tomorrow I’m going to finish cleaning the engine bay with a tooth brush with a bit of acf 50 on it. Remove and clean the shocks. Reinstall them. Various brackets are soaking in plus gas and I’ll have them all off , clean and painted soon. Dying to get going. Anyway spot the unwashed part …