Corrosion and hammerite - am I missing something

The panniers weren't even dry when I set of for Garmisch on Wednesday evening :-)

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I have some clear lacquer but I don't think I will bother. My next job is to tackle the front engine cover and the hubs. I will be using silver smooth Hammerite out of a rattle can for that. Once that is done I'm going to repaint the bike. I think I will go with something more military like the green from the 2014 LC Adv. At least it will match the seat cover.

Here is an 'after' photo of the Landcruiser once I had blown over it with two coats of thinned down satin Hammerite:
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Hammerite breeds a lot of contempt but its easy, finishes well when thinned down with two quids worth of turps, has rust prevention, it doesn't need priming on steel or topcoating and is cheap and easily available. Don't over think this guys. Just do it!

It is Waxoyl that is the work of the devil!

Paul.
 
As I moaned before my Hammerite looked great for a while but chipped badly after about 3 months. Maybe the formulation has improved.
 
I've got some old lead based black paint and primer in the shed. Maybe this will be up to the job???

I might also have some Bronze Green too.

The only trouble is they're gloss colours, not matt or satin.
 
Aluminium needs an etching primer.
Old paints will peel off under heavy solvent paints like hammerite.
They dry slowly but are more flexible than many modern paints. Stuff like POR-15 are tough but still need an etch primer on aluminium.
 
Really useful thread with good advice but can't believe this topic hasn't been sorted long ago with step-by-step guide for the uninitiated ~ i guess classic bike / car mags are full of this stuff! I have various bits that need renovating, including some on the bike, such as engine front cover, foot rests, stands etc. Locally there is a company that does powder coat and another that does stove enameling; given folks here say powder coating chips, is stoving a better option??
 


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