Dogbytes' R80 ST project

[Dogbytes]

Fork adjuster

I'm thinking it'll look something like this…

It's a little on the simple side - but simple is (usually) reliable and if I wanted complicated why would I be mess in about with an old Airhead? On the other hand…

I also require exquisite and that implies a certain trickness lacking here. Some kind of neat locking arrangement or adjustment by hand rater than screwdriver… Just something different but obvious. I need a 'why doesn't everyone do that' feature.

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

I do love a bit of CAD!

 

[markjackson]

I also require exquisite and that implies a certain trickness lacking here. Some kind of neat locking arrangement or adjustment by hand rater than screwdriver… Just something different but obvious. I need a 'why doesn't everyone do that' feature.

Hmmm… needless trickness for fun. I like.

How 'bout…

Machining a 1/4 drive square 'hole' on the top of the adjuster, to take a snap-on 1/4 drive T bar, kept in a rebate milled into the top yoke, located by the drive square pushing into a square hole in the centre of the milled section

Using a bearing as the bottom cap, or between bottom cap and screw, to remove the stiction when adjusting?

 

[Dogbytes]

Hmmm… needless trickness for fun. I like.

How 'bout…

Machining a 1/4 drive square 'hole' on the top of the adjuster, to take a snap-on 1/4 drive T bar, kept in a rebate milled into the top yoke, located by the drive square pushing into a square hole in the centre of the milled section

Using a bearing as the bottom cap, or between bottom cap and screw, to remove the stiction when adjusting?

That's the kind of thing I'm talking about. Years ago, a friend of mine had an Uncle Bunt lowrider frame with a socket set that slid into one of the frame tubes. A man after my own heart!

 

[Dogbytes]

Back into it today. On a mission now!

Got back from Azerbaijan on Thursday. I'll be sorting through the bits that arrived whilst I was away and chasing up those that haven't.

 

[Dogbytes]

Spring has sprung

The new fork springs are guesswork. They are much shorter than the originals and they're also stiffer. I'll sort out the rough preload with spacers and tweak it with the adjusters (soon, fingers crossed). Then see if the spring rate works.

Linear springs from RaceTech

 

[Dogbytes]

Sit on it

The seat pad (Alcantara over closed cell foam over aluminium) can now be seen fastened to the Ducati replica seat unit.

 

[Dogbytes]

Furthermore...

The seat unit now attaches to the seat subframe by Zeus fasteners...

 

[Dogbytes]

News from afar

Richie Moore reckons I'll have the gearbox (late model, rebuilt with higher 1st and 2nd ratios) next week. Engine should follow a couple of weeks later. Fingers crossed for that - I need it to establish certain clearances. And it'll go faster with an engine...

 

[flatdog]

Great to hear you are nearing the end.
I'm very much looking forwards to seeing the end result.

 

[Beemerboff]

Simplest way with the adjustable fork top nut is to order one of the $40 ebay specials and just have a new thread cut - I ordered a set for my Funduro and cross threaded one fitting it.

One email and the vendor sent a replacement pair at no cost, so I had a thread cut on the original set to suit my G/S.

Cant say I notice much difference to the springing, but it makes adjusting the ride height to suit the turn in of different tires much easier!

 

[Dogbytes]

It's a start

I finally got round to ordering a starter motor yesterday. Valero from Moto-Bins. Arrived this afternoon. Nice 'n' light. I suppose, if I have to have a starter motor, this is the one...

Can't wait to bolt it the new engine! Over to you Richie...

 

[Dogbytes]

Gearbox is ready!

Had a call from Richie Moore, this evening, to tell me that the gearbox is done. Completely rebuilt - bearings, seals, etc. etc. high ratio 1st and 2nd gears, all the various trickery learnt from competition.

I'll leave it there until the engine's done and then collect them both together. That's a trip I'm looking forward to...

 

[Dogbytes]

Final drive question

I have questions for the experts out there...

I can find 32:10 bevel boxes for sale - but they're all 4-stud ones and I need a 3-stud one.

What were 3-stud, 32:10, monolever bevel boxes fitted to?
Anyone got one for sale?
Is this definitely the highest ratio 3-stud monolever final drive?

I know there were some higher ratio drives available for the twin-shock bikes, has anyone heard of anyone fitting the internals of those to a monolever housing?

 

[Rob Farmer]

They are listed as the final drive for the St http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0347&mospid=51624&btnr=33_0607&hg=33&fg=74 they aren't listed as "ended" so should still be available somewhere.

There is an alternative crown wheel set listed for the g/s but you have to be careful over the years as they changed the design at some time during production.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0346&mospid=51622&btnr=33_0611&hg=33&fg=76

Richie Moore is the man to speak to. He's probably bought them all

The problem with the g/s or St mono lever is that you cannot even swap the ratios with the other mono bevels let alone the twin shocks.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Actually they are listed as "ended"

Good luck with that..

there re is a thread on advrider where one of the guys machined a paralever gs rear wheel to fit a four stud mono bevel box so that he had a better selection of gear ratios. The downside with this is you end up with a cross spoked rear wheel.

You could always run a four stud bevel box and fit cast wheels

 

[Dogbytes]

I

Actually they are listed as "ended"

Good luck with that..

there re is a thread on advrider where one of the guys machined a paralever gs rear wheel to fit a four stud mono bevel box so that he had a better selection of gear ratios. The downside with this is you end up with a cross spoked rear wheel.

You could always run a four stud bevel box and fit cast wheels

Thanks for that, Rob, I was beginning to get that feeling... I'm not sure that Richie has any - or if he has, he's keeping them to himself. I think that logic dictates a four-stud set-up and cast wheels but, for now at least, I'll stick with the existing stuff for appearance sake.

Actually I've just had another idea for the future, but it'll require considerable work...

 

[Rob Farmer]

You could always put a twin shock swinging arm in and two shocks mounted as per the monos. That would give you the wire wheels and a big selection of final drives.

 

[Dogbytes]

You could always put a twin shock swinging arm in and two shocks mounted as per the monos. That would give you the wire wheels and a big selection of final drives.

That's a good solution. Or, come to that, a braced twin-shock swing arm and a monolever single shock. I believe Udo Gietl did something similar.

I actually like that idea - maybe on the next one...

 

[Dogbytes]

Roughing out the fairing mounts yesterday.

When I had my other workshop, I was going to do these in carbon fibre but now they'll be aluminium alloy. Probably more fitting anyway.