Drive shaft spline greasing

mickh

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I am about to change the oil in the final drive on my bike and will grease the rear splines at the same time. Does anyone know if the front (gearbox end) splines need to be done as well, as I think I read somewhere that it doesn't need to be done on a paralever set-up. If it does need to be done, can I use the same method that I use on my K100RS i.e. get the swinging arm parallel to the ground, grab the end of the driveshaft and yank it off the gearbox, as it saves having to remove swinging arm or front gaiter.:thumb2
 
I am about to change the oil in the final drive on my bike and will grease the rear splines at the same time. Does anyone know if the front (gearbox end) splines need to be done as well, as I think I read somewhere that it doesn't need to be done on a paralever set-up. If it does need to be done, can I use the same method that I use on my K100RS i.e. get the swinging arm parallel to the ground, grab the end of the driveshaft and yank it off the gearbox, as it saves having to remove swinging arm or front gaiter.:thumb2

Worth doing as they aren't greased on assembly - just yank very hard and it'll eventually come free :)

Andres
 
In the interests of longevity as I intend to keep my bike long term (2012 twin cam), I too have thought about drive shaft spline lubrication. Having removed the shaft as described above, how does one relocate the shaft once lubricated? Are there any pitfalls to watch for or tips to ensure all goes to plan?
Alan R
 
Been there and asked the same questions; there is a thread started by me on this but I'm on my phone so can't find it.........essentially you just ram it back in until it locates properly :D

Andres
 
I have seen a thread which shows the removal of the cable tie on the forward gator, using a protected screw driver against the frame to pop off the drive shaft. Then grease it, place it back and use the screw drive to lift the end of the universal joint to align it with the gear box shaft, then tap the shaft on. Not tried it myself but intend to do so. I note the cable tie is thinner than I expected. Maybe we should try a search for this!
 
Yeah I've done all this but I'm in the pub just now so ill have to post the pics/ links later. Hic.
 
I am about to change the oil in the final drive on my bike and will grease the rear splines at the same time. Does anyone know if the front (gearbox end) splines need to be done as well, as I think I read somewhere that it doesn't need to be done on a paralever set-up. If it does need to be done, can I use the same method that I use on my K100RS i.e. get the swinging arm parallel to the ground, grab the end of the driveshaft and yank it off the gearbox, as it saves having to remove swinging arm or front gaiter.:thumb2

If they werent intended to move, then they wouldnt be splined in the first place, and if they move they need greasing - with the very high moly content stuff.

Its a pig of a job to get the shaft off and back on. Made easier if you use a zip tie to hold back the rubber gaiter so that you can align the shafts.
 
Just done the job, as you all said it was a bit fiddly but not too bad, not too much swearing. Thanks for all the advice :beerjug:
 
well as i had a day off work i decided to grease the splines front and back and change the fd oil at the same time .i took the drive shaft out all together and greased the splines no bother , putting it back in was a right pain the arse ,i had to take the shocker off to get the swing arm up level,in order to take the bottom shocker bolt out you need to remover the tail exhaust.
any way its done now ,but if you are taking the whole shaft out and not just moving it back of the spring circlip its not a 5 mins job .
as far as i can see the correct way is to lube the splines with the shaft out.
 
I've never seen the front drive shaft splines worn on any 1100/1150/1200 models.

The only problem I've seen are the rear U/Js rusted and seized, and that's only on 1200 models who's swingarm gaiters aren't so watertight as the 1100/1150 bikes.
 
:blast
Been there and asked the same questions; there is a thread started by me on this but I'm on my phone so can't find it.........essentially you just ram it back in until it locates properly :D

Andres

But be careful not to push the old girl off the centre stand I guess....:blast
 
I've never seen the front drive shaft splines worn on any 1100/1150/1200 models.

The only problem I've seen are the rear U/Js rusted and seized, and that's only on 1200 models who's swingarm gaiters aren't so watertight as the 1100/1150 bikes.
The voice of experience. Marvelous. This is exactly the sort of experienced information I need to prevent me launching off on a bout of preventative maintenance which may or may not be a good idea. One reads of problems people have with their bikes and a seed of doubt is planted - could that happen to my bike? The next thing you know is that your bike is in bits on the garage floor as you try to find the left hand GNDN Jeffries tube to see if it's still serviceable.
Thanks Steptoe, from both me and my bike.
Alan R
 


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