Engine lacquer

[snaponphil]

This stuff would be better than clear lacquer

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-uc

Used the "visible" version on my car and its tough as nails.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for info.. I'll give some of that a try..
useful for other members I'm thinking..

 

[Stevebez]

Thanks for info.. I'll give some of that a try..
useful for other members I'm thinking..

Its good stuff although a bit wax like so I would try in a small patch and see how you like it. Also if you want to take it off its no real drama ... clear lacquer would be.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Neil W]

The bmw engine paint is not the toughest out there and f@ck knows if it is water based or something else , using automotive lacquer unless you are 100% sure of its compatibility with the original finish could easily end in tears

 

[Sandtribe]

You can try these guys who offered a discount for members

http://www.hybridx.co.uk/

I've had it done and I'm well impressed

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I got this done by my BMW dealer and am impressed.
You will still need to ACF-50 some of the parts though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[matchlessman]

The main problem is that the mudguard is useless. As soon as you start riding the front of your engine is being shot blasted by all the gravel and crap on the road. It doesn't matter how good the paint finish is or what the preparation is like, the paint will get chipped. Once the paint is chipped moisture can get to the aluminium with whatever is in the atmosphere and start to corrode it. You could fit a fender extender, a crud catcher, or both. Alternatively you can paint the front of the engine with underseal or similar which can withstand the shot blasting.
Perhaps the bikes that aren't corroded either have mechanical protection or are ridden slowly so the road debris doesn't do as much damage. .......

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

A tall crud catcher is more than enough or if you want belt & braces then fit a fender extender too

 

[tadhgocuilleain]

I haven't been paying too much attention to where the corrosion happens on the LCs, but if it's the front of the engine, it's most likely caused by the sand-blasting effect from the front wheel, as mentioned.

First, but a Fenda Extenda on it. A crud catcher too, would help.

To protect the paint itself, I highly recommend XPEL Ultimate Paint Protection Film. I've put it on the front of my engine and the lower parts of the front forks. Those parts are regularly covered in crap, but the paintwork is still perfect under the PPF.

You can see the details about it and a video of me fitting it halfway through this post in my protection detail thread.

The PPF can be removed and replaced when it deteriorates, or if you change your mind and decide to put some other form of protection there.

 

[MrMcNamara]

Well, all I do is wash it and then a light spray GT85 over the engine and frame. 20 odd thousand miles and no corrosion.

Same here, keep it clean & apply GT85 / WD 40 or similar, ACF 50 makes a mess so best used where not seen, not sure what all the fuss is about?