EWS! Starts, runs, cuts out on the road then clears itself only to do it again...

Fluffy Bridges

Fluffy Bridges

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
572
Reaction score
8
Location
South West Wales
40K, 2007 R1200GSA owned from new.

Just been through a fuel pump failure outlined in Roddy L's post in this section, now we have a further "opportunity" to fix!

During the warranty period this bike had an EWS changed. Can't remember the circumstances, vaguely remember a non start at a fuel station in Somerset but could have been a recall. I mention this just for historical background.

Today, on a ride to a meet up, (Fishguard to Cardigan) the bike cut out several times momentarily with the warning triangle lit then continued with the triangle extinguished as normal.
On the ride home this happened 1/2 dozen times at least, with two occasions of complete failure and EWS! showing.

Now, I know what the EWS is, where it is, what it does and how it interacts with the keys.

In the experience of the collective:

1) Is the failure of the EWS unit a go/no go or will it perform intermittently?
2) Can replacement be done by a semi competent idiot, (me)?
2) If I replace it will it recognize the existing keys or does that have to be programmed by a dealer?

Having read other EWS posts on here I wonder if I have a wiring problem between the EWS unit and the ECU (not my strongest skill......). Any suggestions on PIN numbers etc for chasing this down would be greatly appreciated.

I have a GS911 but have not yet plugged it in to read fault codes.

TIA

Simon.
 
There are two possible faults

The EWS ring is faulty

or the wiring to the EWS is faulty


But the cutting out may be unrelated bot not related to the EWS

Reason being once the EWS has initiated a go trigger to the ZFE its does nothing else , so any intermittent ness is possibly another cause

do a search for EWS or the Lemon or its Fucked and you will see the most probable fault for EWS and how to fix
 
DrFarkoff said:
Internal battery on Alarm unit ??
Click to expand...
Hmmmm.. Here's an admission. How do I check it? Had the bike 19 years and never knew or thought to check that.

The light on the fob operates which is a surprise after all this time but I don't carry it except on tour. Is That what you meant? DWS message doesn't come up.
 
DrFarkoff said:
Internal battery on Alarm unit ??
Click to expand...
Would that cause the cut out?

My understanding is similar to the ews system, one an ok trigger is sent to the zfe, they are then ignored until the ignition circuit is cycled

Its probably worth checking along with the ring antenna
 
Here's the info I found in a thread on here that helped me get my bike (same age as yours) going again:

Disclaimer: I am no expert. Take the below as exactly what it is: ramblings of a random bloke on t'Internet. It is a pointer to start googling and investigating further. My motive is only to offer info to try to offer some info to help fellow bikers.

So, that out of the way, EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) can come up as an error for many reasons, but thinking logically... Simplistically speaking, the bike key holds a passive "chip" inside it with a code, it goes in to the antenna which [given that the electronic power is there] agitates the key chip and "reads" the code off the chip, sends it to the ECU, which, then, compares it with the stored value and allows the bike to be started if they match. So, components involved : Key, antenna, some wiring, ECU [and indirectly the battery].

So... if the low-beam stays on, there is no whirring from the idle-actuator, no pulse on the fuel pump and no gear indication on the LCD... those symptoms are the same as it the ECU [BMSK-P] was actually completely disconnected. It would then not be illogical to think that the ECU is not booting up. If you can use a multimeter, you can do some basic tests. Head to the smaller of the two ECU connectors under the seat. Disconnect it and do some continuity/voltage tests. If I remember the pinouts correctly (let me know if they are not as expected and I will double-check/correct the post for future reads):

1) Firstly, check that you are getting power to the ECU. You should have the battery voltage [~12V] across pin-3 (-) and Pin-6 (+). (Pin-34 should be the switched +12V [i.e. ON when IGN ON]). The belts-and-braces method is to wire a consumer (like a small automotive (12V) light-bulb) to those to check for the solid current under load.

2) Check you are getting good earth too.(continuity to the frame/engine/battery(=) @ pin 3) may as well check the brown cable going from the battery(-) to the engine on the left side, near the starter.

3) Since you are already at the ECU connector, If you have disconnected the ring-antenna, you may as well check the continuity to the ring antenna; Although that is unlikely to be the problem at this stage, If the theory is sound and the ECU is not booting up at all.
Pins 1234 @ ring antenna should have continuity to pins 8,43,55,57 on the smaller ECU connector, respectively. Numbers are cast into the connector but are very small. Top-tip: Use your phone camera for magnifying if your eyesight fails you in this endeavour.
:)


Ensure that there is no continuity between the ring-antenna connector pins too (in case of cables chafing against eachother)
[You may need some pins to insert into the connectors if your multimeter probes are too fat.]

If all of this is as expected, chances are the ECU has a problem and is not booting up...


Hope that helps someone...
 
Santa-2512 said:
There are two possible faults

The EWS ring is faulty

or the wiring to the EWS is faulty


But the cutting out may be unrelated bot not related to the EWS

Reason being once the EWS has initiated a go trigger to the ZFE its does nothing else , so any intermittent ness is possibly another cause

do a search for EWS or the Lemon or its Fucked and you will see the most probable fault for EWS and how to fix
Click to expand...
Santa 2512,

Yes, got you. The thought is that the EWS! is a symptom not a cause and I have jumped to a conclusion. (y)
 
Watty100 said:
Here's the info I found in a thread on here that helped me get my bike (same age as yours) going again:

Disclaimer: I am no expert. Take the below as exactly what it is: ramblings of a random bloke on t'Internet. It is a pointer to start googling and investigating further. My motive is only to offer info to try to offer some info to help fellow bikers.

So, that out of the way, EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) can come up as an error for many reasons, but thinking logically... Simplistically speaking, the bike key holds a passive "chip" inside it with a code, it goes in to the antenna which [given that the electronic power is there] agitates the key chip and "reads" the code off the chip, sends it to the ECU, which, then, compares it with the stored value and allows the bike to be started if they match. So, components involved : Key, antenna, some wiring, ECU [and indirectly the battery].

So... if the low-beam stays on, there is no whirring from the idle-actuator, no pulse on the fuel pump and no gear indication on the LCD... those symptoms are the same as it the ECU [BMSK-P] was actually completely disconnected. It would then not be illogical to think that the ECU is not booting up. If you can use a multimeter, you can do some basic tests. Head to the smaller of the two ECU connectors under the seat. Disconnect it and do some continuity/voltage tests. If I remember the pinouts correctly (let me know if they are not as expected and I will double-check/correct the post for future reads):

1) Firstly, check that you are getting power to the ECU. You should have the battery voltage [~12V] across pin-3 (-) and Pin-6 (+). (Pin-34 should be the switched +12V [i.e. ON when IGN ON]). The belts-and-braces method is to wire a consumer (like a small automotive (12V) light-bulb) to those to check for the solid current under load.

2) Check you are getting good earth too.(continuity to the frame/engine/battery(=) @ pin 3) may as well check the brown cable going from the battery(-) to the engine on the left side, near the starter.

3) Since you are already at the ECU connector, If you have disconnected the ring-antenna, you may as well check the continuity to the ring antenna; Although that is unlikely to be the problem at this stage, If the theory is sound and the ECU is not booting up at all.
Pins 1234 @ ring antenna should have continuity to pins 8,43,55,57 on the smaller ECU connector, respectively. Numbers are cast into the connector but are very small. Top-tip: Use your phone camera for magnifying if your eyesight fails you in this endeavour.
:)


Ensure that there is no continuity between the ring-antenna connector pins too (in case of cables chafing against eachother)
[You may need some pins to insert into the connectors if your multimeter probes are too fat.]

If all of this is as expected, chances are the ECU has a problem and is not booting up...


Hope that helps someone...
Click to expand...

Watty,

Thanks for that - it's something to work on. Having slept on it, things are a bit clearer and less panic stricken.
The thing is, the bike starts, runs and rides fine, until it doesn't. So testing could well show up nothing at all. Intermittent faults are a pain. Better it broke down altogether!

Onwards and upwards....
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
The first job is to run an ethernet cable into my remote garage! We've recently moved and the wifi repeater doesn't quite reach. :rolleyes: If it's not one thing it's another.
Click to expand...
I've so many questions :D Could you not bring the laptop to the bike?!
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
40K, 2007 R1200GSA owned from new.

Today, on a ride to a meet up, (Fishguard to Cardigan) the bike cut out several times momentarily with the warning triangle lit then continued with the triangle extinguished as normal.
On the ride home this happened 1/2 dozen times at least, with two occasions of complete failure and EWS! showing.
Click to expand...
Same symptoms I had on my 2007 (Non EWS) turned out to be broken ignition switch wires.
Common fault on GS's you could try turning on the bike then move the handle bars fully from left to right and back a few times see if the fault appears again.

If it is this, you will need to chase the cables from the EWS down the headstock into the wiring loom until you find the break (fuel tank will need to come off).
Usually you will find cracks in the cable insulation, moisture gets into the copper eventually corroding until there is very little or no connection.
 
Santa-2512

Thread 'EWS warning'

Went to start the bike Friday Morning and there was nothing going on .


I coud see somthing on the display but i didnt have my reading glasses on , but i'm sure it was EWS

anyway turned off and on again, and it started fine ...


Did the same on the way home, but this time in better light i could see EWS on the display

Wiggled the connector and turned off and on again and it went out, and i got home -

I'll order one from the mothership Monday

Looking at the repair CD it says you have to drill the bolt heads off, and remove them with a stud remover

And they need a special tool...

might help
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom