EWS! Starts, runs, cuts out on the road then clears itself only to do it again...

[Fluffy Bridges]

40K, 2007 R1200GSA owned from new.

Just been through a fuel pump failure outlined in Roddy L's post in this section, now we have a further "opportunity" to fix!

During the warranty period this bike had an EWS changed. Can't remember the circumstances, vaguely remember a non start at a fuel station in Somerset but could have been a recall. I mention this just for historical background.

Today, on a ride to a meet up, (Fishguard to Cardigan) the bike cut out several times momentarily with the warning triangle lit then continued with the triangle extinguished as normal.
On the ride home this happened 1/2 dozen times at least, with two occasions of complete failure and EWS! showing.

Now, I know what the EWS is, where it is, what it does and how it interacts with the keys.

In the experience of the collective:

1) Is the failure of the EWS unit a go/no go or will it perform intermittently?
2) Can replacement be done by a semi competent idiot, (me)?
2) If I replace it will it recognize the existing keys or does that have to be programmed by a dealer?

Having read other EWS posts on here I wonder if I have a wiring problem between the EWS unit and the ECU (not my strongest skill......). Any suggestions on PIN numbers etc for chasing this down would be greatly appreciated.

I have a GS911 but have not yet plugged it in to read fault codes.

TIA

Simon.

 

[RadioFlyer]

Check the connections on the battery.

 

[Santa-2512]

There are two possible faults

The EWS ring is faulty

or the wiring to the EWS is faulty


But the cutting out may be unrelated bot not related to the EWS

Reason being once the EWS has initiated a go trigger to the ZFE its does nothing else , so any intermittent ness is possibly another cause

do a search for EWS or the Lemon or its Fucked and you will see the most probable fault for EWS and how to fix

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I’d plug it into the the gs 911 and see what it says…

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

That's a start. Thank you Gents.

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Check the connections on the battery.

Tight as a tight thing. cranking power fine.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Internal battery on Alarm unit ??

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Internal battery on Alarm unit ??

Hmmmm.. Here's an admission. How do I check it? Had the bike 19 years and never knew or thought to check that.

The light on the fob operates which is a surprise after all this time but I don't carry it except on tour. Is That what you meant? DWS message doesn't come up.

 

[Santa-2512]

Internal battery on Alarm unit ??

Would that cause the cut out?

My understanding is similar to the ews system, one an ok trigger is sent to the zfe, they are then ignored until the ignition circuit is cycled

Its probably worth checking along with the ring antenna

 

[Watty100]

Here's the info I found in a thread on here that helped me get my bike (same age as yours) going again:

Disclaimer: I am no expert. Take the below as exactly what it is: ramblings of a random bloke on t'Internet. It is a pointer to start googling and investigating further. My motive is only to offer info to try to offer some info to help fellow bikers.

So, that out of the way, EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) can come up as an error for many reasons, but thinking logically... Simplistically speaking, the bike key holds a passive "chip" inside it with a code, it goes in to the antenna which [given that the electronic power is there] agitates the key chip and "reads" the code off the chip, sends it to the ECU, which, then, compares it with the stored value and allows the bike to be started if they match. So, components involved : Key, antenna, some wiring, ECU [and indirectly the battery].

So... if the low-beam stays on, there is no whirring from the idle-actuator, no pulse on the fuel pump and no gear indication on the LCD... those symptoms are the same as it the ECU [BMSK-P] was actually completely disconnected. It would then not be illogical to think that the ECU is not booting up. If you can use a multimeter, you can do some basic tests. Head to the smaller of the two ECU connectors under the seat. Disconnect it and do some continuity/voltage tests. If I remember the pinouts correctly (let me know if they are not as expected and I will double-check/correct the post for future reads):

1) Firstly, check that you are getting power to the ECU. You should have the battery voltage [~12V] across pin-3 (-) and Pin-6 (+). (Pin-34 should be the switched +12V [i.e. ON when IGN ON]). The belts-and-braces method is to wire a consumer (like a small automotive (12V) light-bulb) to those to check for the solid current under load.

2) Check you are getting good earth too.(continuity to the frame/engine/battery(=) @ pin 3) may as well check the brown cable going from the battery(-) to the engine on the left side, near the starter.

3) Since you are already at the ECU connector, If you have disconnected the ring-antenna, you may as well check the continuity to the ring antenna; Although that is unlikely to be the problem at this stage, If the theory is sound and the ECU is not booting up at all.
Pins 1234 @ ring antenna should have continuity to pins 8,43,55,57 on the smaller ECU connector, respectively. Numbers are cast into the connector but are very small. Top-tip: Use your phone camera for magnifying if your eyesight fails you in this endeavour.

Ensure that there is no continuity between the ring-antenna connector pins too (in case of cables chafing against eachother)
[You may need some pins to insert into the connectors if your multimeter probes are too fat.]

If all of this is as expected, chances are the ECU has a problem and is not booting up...


Hope that helps someone...

 

[RadioFlyer]

Internal battery on Alarm unit ??

That is dwa not ews.

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

There are two possible faults

The EWS ring is faulty

or the wiring to the EWS is faulty


But the cutting out may be unrelated bot not related to the EWS

Reason being once the EWS has initiated a go trigger to the ZFE its does nothing else , so any intermittent ness is possibly another cause

do a search for EWS or the Lemon or its Fucked and you will see the most probable fault for EWS and how to fix

Santa 2512,

Yes, got you. The thought is that the EWS! is a symptom not a cause and I have jumped to a conclusion.

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Here's the info I found in a thread on here that helped me get my bike (same age as yours) going again:

Disclaimer: I am no expert. Take the below as exactly what it is: ramblings of a random bloke on t'Internet. It is a pointer to start googling and investigating further. My motive is only to offer info to try to offer some info to help fellow bikers.

So, that out of the way, EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) can come up as an error for many reasons, but thinking logically... Simplistically speaking, the bike key holds a passive "chip" inside it with a code, it goes in to the antenna which [given that the electronic power is there] agitates the key chip and "reads" the code off the chip, sends it to the ECU, which, then, compares it with the stored value and allows the bike to be started if they match. So, components involved : Key, antenna, some wiring, ECU [and indirectly the battery].

So... if the low-beam stays on, there is no whirring from the idle-actuator, no pulse on the fuel pump and no gear indication on the LCD... those symptoms are the same as it the ECU [BMSK-P] was actually completely disconnected. It would then not be illogical to think that the ECU is not booting up. If you can use a multimeter, you can do some basic tests. Head to the smaller of the two ECU connectors under the seat. Disconnect it and do some continuity/voltage tests. If I remember the pinouts correctly (let me know if they are not as expected and I will double-check/correct the post for future reads):

1) Firstly, check that you are getting power to the ECU. You should have the battery voltage [~12V] across pin-3 (-) and Pin-6 (+). (Pin-34 should be the switched +12V [i.e. ON when IGN ON]). The belts-and-braces method is to wire a consumer (like a small automotive (12V) light-bulb) to those to check for the solid current under load.

2) Check you are getting good earth too.(continuity to the frame/engine/battery(=) @ pin 3) may as well check the brown cable going from the battery(-) to the engine on the left side, near the starter.

3) Since you are already at the ECU connector, If you have disconnected the ring-antenna, you may as well check the continuity to the ring antenna; Although that is unlikely to be the problem at this stage, If the theory is sound and the ECU is not booting up at all.
Pins 1234 @ ring antenna should have continuity to pins 8,43,55,57 on the smaller ECU connector, respectively. Numbers are cast into the connector but are very small. Top-tip: Use your phone camera for magnifying if your eyesight fails you in this endeavour.

Ensure that there is no continuity between the ring-antenna connector pins too (in case of cables chafing against eachother)
[You may need some pins to insert into the connectors if your multimeter probes are too fat.]

If all of this is as expected, chances are the ECU has a problem and is not booting up...


Hope that helps someone...

Watty,

Thanks for that - it's something to work on. Having slept on it, things are a bit clearer and less panic stricken.
The thing is, the bike starts, runs and rides fine, until it doesn't. So testing could well show up nothing at all. Intermittent faults are a pain. Better it broke down altogether!

Onwards and upwards....

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

I’d plug it into the the gs 911 and see what it says…

The first job is to run an ethernet cable into my remote garage! We've recently moved and the wifi repeater doesn't quite reach. If it's not one thing it's another.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

The first job is to run an ethernet cable into my remote garage! We've recently moved and the wifi repeater doesn't quite reach. If it's not one thing it's another.

I've so many questions Could you not bring the laptop to the bike?!

 

[Andy63]

40K, 2007 R1200GSA owned from new.

Today, on a ride to a meet up, (Fishguard to Cardigan) the bike cut out several times momentarily with the warning triangle lit then continued with the triangle extinguished as normal.
On the ride home this happened 1/2 dozen times at least, with two occasions of complete failure and EWS! showing.

Same symptoms I had on my 2007 (Non EWS) turned out to be broken ignition switch wires.
Common fault on GS's you could try turning on the bike then move the handle bars fully from left to right and back a few times see if the fault appears again.

If it is this, you will need to chase the cables from the EWS down the headstock into the wiring loom until you find the break (fuel tank will need to come off).
Usually you will find cracks in the cable insulation, moisture gets into the copper eventually corroding until there is very little or no connection.

 

[Santa-2512]

Thread 'EWS warning'

Oct 20, 2018

Went to start the bike Friday Morning and there was nothing going on .


I coud see somthing on the display but i didnt have my reading glasses on , but i'm sure it was EWS

anyway turned off and on again, and it started fine ...


Did the same on the way home, but this time in better light i could see EWS on the display

Wiggled the connector and turned off and on again and it went out, and i got home -

I'll order one from the mothership Monday

Looking at the repair CD it says you have to drill the bolt heads off, and remove them with a stud remover

And they need a special tool...

• Santa-2512
• Replies: 31
• Forum: 1200 GS Hexhead

might help

 

[botus]

In the experience of the collective:

1) Is the failure of the EWS unit a go/no go or will it perform intermittently?
2) Can replacement be done by a semi competent idiot, (me)?
2) If I replace it will it recognize the existing keys or does that have to be programmed by a dealer?


Simon.

1) yes often fails intermittent
2) yes, super easy
3) yes, its just a receiver - it has no brain re what the key code is or what part of the bike needs it

do they fail- - dealer team falling on the floor laughing "we've never sold one of these before", eventually when they got more serious the last comment was "they make the fuel strip look reliable"

if it needs one

To fit the new part, the ring antenna lifts off over the top of the ignition switch - so you need to remove the whole ignition switch / ring antenna from the top yoke from down below - its held on with two stupid security bolts (and if you want to do this the BMW way you need to buy two new bolts from the dealer with the antenna and the special BM tool (No 510531) to do them up - you don't want these bolts as its no longer a side of the road repair - if anyone can find and get at these they'll be stealing the bike anyway

BMW instructions say to drill a 4.5m pilot hole 6mm deep then use an 8.5 mm drill so the bolt head falls off, and after dropping out the switch, extract the two bolt studs (ignore BMW...)

these days you can buy drill bits with the 1/4 hex shank like the screw driver tips use - buy a 5mm one from screwfix, and also buy a sacrificial T25 torx driver bit and a 6" long screw driver tip extension bit for your drill - and get two 8mm x 30mm cap head bolts. Other stuff a hammer, a magnet on a stick and for good measure some masking tape to hold rubbish back / protect the bottom fork tubes).

1) Up top - pop off the two tiny torx bolts nearest the cluster and get the plastic trim cover from the base of the ignition switch and remove the pair of wiring connections and get them tied out of the way
2) Now down below looking up get your magnet somewhere up in the gods near the bolt head and tape it from falling out. Forget a center punch - the soft strange security bolts have a hole that centers the drill for the thieves to take you bike anyway. Now using the screw driver tip extension and the strange drill bit, a battery operated drill fits quite nicely just off the mudguard and drill a 5mm x 5mm deep hole in the center of each of the two bolts, (trying to use a conventional short drill bit will likely have you trashing brake and clutch hoses doing looms and swearing a lot)
3) get your sacrificial T25 1/4" tip and place in the 6" driver extension - now reach up with a hammer and tap the torx bit into the soft bolt head - they are going to be about 20lb ft tight and the loctite makes them tight all the way out
4) with the bolts out the ignition switch can be wiggled past all the detritus around the headstock. On the bench its obvious a little persuasion with a small pick will allow you to unclip the ring antenna from the switch
5) clip on the new antenna, wiggle the switch back up ensuring nothing is trapped - with BMW even using nice washers to go with your smaller headed cap heads

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Okay, GS911 report attached.

Just to keep this grounded and real world (!) I hooked up the 911 after the last trip then promptly and accidentally cleared the fault codes... It's part of being human and 68 I'm told.....

The previous report, before I cleared them, included 2 faults of Voltage in excess of 18v and Voltage less than 12v. Fault not present now.

This morning I fired her up and went up the road to try and duplicate the errors, fault codes and misbehavior, having first put the bike trailer on the car and tee'd up the missus for a recovery. Mission accomplished. Broke down 3 times in 2-3 miles, with warning triangle showing each time and EWS! showing once. However, it restarts every time (ish) and I rode home and it failed again right outside my garage door. Result.

I'm not sure what I'm being told here but I surmise something is intermittently switching the engine controller can-bus off.... No shit. The bike stops being a bike intermittently and transforms into a prospective boat anchor at the most awkward times. I'll chase down the fault codes in more detail later. Right now I need to mow the grass. Told you this would be real world grounded.

CAN-Kombi H/L Cluster type: CAN-Kombi H/L Controller Type: Instrument Cluster Controller: 6100 Part No.: 7718195 Hardware Index: 05 Coding Index: 06 Manufacturer: Siemens VDO Automotive Manufacture Date (YY/MM/DD): 2006-08-18 MCV: 0.6.0 FSV: 3.1.2 OSV: 3.3.10 HWOE No.: 25907639 Assembly No.: 7718196 Variant: K25 Adventure Factory I-Level: K024-07-08-500 Actual I-Level: K024-08-01-500 3 fault codes found: 37663 CAN-bus timeout: Communication of backup vehicle mileage (BMSKP/KOMBI) The fault is not present now. 37651 CAN-bus timeout with BMS-K control unit The fault is not present now. 37652 CAN-bus timeout with BMS-K control unit The fault is not present now.

ZFE-Basic ZFE type: ZFE-Basic Controller Type: Vehicle Electronics Controller: 6A00 Part No.: 7718033 Hardware Index: C7 Coding Index: 09 Manufacture Date (YY/MM/DD): 2004-03-01 MCV: 0.6.0 FSV: 2.1.1 OSV: 3.3.0 Manufacturer: Loewe / Lear HWOE No.: 25910439 Factory I-Level: K024-07-08-500 Actual I-Level: K024-08-01-500 Speed sensor manufacturer is Bosch Speed sensor type is DF11 ABS fitted Heated grips Outside temperature sensor Brake light switch status over CAN Rear bulb replacement Film type fuel sensor Manual low beam off switch Storage of temperature indication when engine hot 1 fault codes found: 41754 CAN-bus timeout to BMS-K (engine) control module The fault is not present now.

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Same symptoms I had on my 2007 (Non EWS) turned out to be broken ignition switch wires.
Common fault on GS's you could try turning on the bike then move the handle bars fully from left to right and back a few times see if the fault appears again.

If it is this, you will need to chase the cables from the EWS down the headstock into the wiring loom until you find the break (fuel tank will need to come off).
Usually you will find cracks in the cable insulation, moisture gets into the copper eventually corroding until there is very little or no connection.

Done that Andy. Waggled away but NFF.