Fuel pump controller workaround

[wilbjr21]

OK I have today explored my FPC on my 08 GSA. I have had no problems at all since I bought the bike on 28th May and have covered 6500miles to date in all weather conditions. Mine was clean with the sligthest of oxidisation on the fins. So I have cleaned them up and covered it with ACF 50. What I could not work out (I did not want to damage anything) is how to unplug the small and large conectors that plug in to the top of the FPC. Is it just a matter of pulling them off or what?? Managed to take the caps of the tops to expose the cables but the plugs? Any help gratefully recieved

The connectors have a locating hole in a "tang" that has to be sprung before the plug can be removed. You will see this if you look hard enough - it is on the "blind" side.

 

[Ringmaster999]

The connectors have a locating hole in a "tang" that has to be sprung before the plug can be removed. You will see this if you look hard enough - it is on the "blind" side.

OK Will have a closer look next time I give the FPC a clean and another coat of ACF 50

 

[kesha]

Hi all, been following this thread for a while, decided it's time for "workaround".
this is a pic I made this morning. That's 05GS, bought from a dealer.. No plugs, no wires ???
The pump/controller are obviously somewhere else. Any ideas ??

Yeah, right.
Please somebody tell me how to upload the pic

 

[John Soones]

2008 GSA is no better

Hi,

R1200GSA 2008, 5K miles arrived in March 2008.

Stranded on the side of the road yesterday at 16:45.

A call to the dealer at 16:45 who suggested turning the ignition on, then using the kill switch several times. I thought it was a cunning way of resetting some software, but was more likely some fob to show they were doing something.

A call to a very pleasant girl at BMW recovery, who quoted 60-90 minutes until the recovery vehicle arrived, resulted in a technician arriving about 20 minutes later in a 5 series estate. I'd gone through the, "he'll try to fix it on the roadside but if he can't, he'll take you and the bike to your home then the the bike onto the dealer". I know the estates are big, but not that big! He phoned me to give me his ETA but thought he was coming to a Z4. When I described the problem, like you all, he knew what the problem was and was very confident.

Big puddle of water and a burnt out controller.

Sure enough 20 minutes later I was back on the road. A fantastic service, but one that shouldn't be required. I certainly wouldn't want to be outside warranty or in the bad lands when this fails.

I love my bike and think it's the dogs, but the more I read, the less confident I am about long distance journeys.

 

[wilbjr21]

Hi,

R1200GSA 2008, 5K miles arrived in March 2008.

Stranded on the side of the road yesterday at 16:45.

A call to the dealer at 16:45 who suggested turning the ignition on, then using the kill switch several times. I thought it was a cunning way of resetting some software, but was more likely some fob to show they were doing something.

A call to a very pleasant girl at BMW recovery, who quoted 60-90 minutes until the recovery vehicle arrived, resulted in a technician arriving about 20 minutes later in a 5 series estate. I'd gone through the, "he'll try to fix it on the roadside but if he can't, he'll take you and the bike to your home then the the bike onto the dealer". I know the estates are big, but not that big! He phoned me to give me his ETA but thought he was coming to a Z4. When I described the problem, like you all, he knew what the problem was and was very confident.

Big puddle of water and a burnt out controller.

Sure enough 20 minutes later I was back on the road. A fantastic service, but one that shouldn't be required. I certainly wouldn't want to be outside warranty or in the bad lands when this fails.

I love my bike and think it's the dogs, but the more I read, the less confident I am about long distance journeys.

Isn't this thread about work arounds?

 

[John Armstrong]

Isn't this thread about work arounds?

Supose if the nice man in the BM Assist car sorts it out then it's the easiest workaround. Might be worthwhile them posting the info in the sticky failure thread though

 

[The smudger]

solid stuff wapping.

heres a question for you, as you seem to be that way inclined.... if we can run the bike by bu-passing the relay, and a relays function (I assume) is to stop current surgess etc to the fuel pump... why do we actually need the relay? is the relay actually controling the current flow?.... yes I'm a Mechky and was lousy at the sparky bits...

Guys, we need to be careful here, the pump electronics is there for a reason, the way it works is it applies a PWM, (pulse width modulated), voltage signal to the pump. By 'varying' the voltage to the pump the control unit has infinate 'control' over how fast the pump runs, i.e. if the load demand is low, it will run the pump at a low speed with a lower voltage, and vice-versa.

By putting permanent battery voltage to the pump via the pto socket, we run the risk of shortening the pump life, and the pump being directly supplied will no longer be controlled by the ECU, this means the ecu cannot turn off the pump if it needs to!

Not wanting to p*ss on anyones fire, but i think we do need to approach this with 'caution', especially bikes that are still in warranty?

Just the thoughts of a 'simple' tosser!

 

[Smudge]

Fuel pump bodge etc.

Dear Mr Wapping,

Have you an update into your correspondence with BMW perchance

Ever hopefull

 

[BBB61]

Guys, we need to be careful here, the pump electronics is there for a reason, the way it works is it applies a PWM, (pulse width modulated), voltage signal to the pump. By 'varying' the voltage to the pump the control unit has infinate 'control' over how fast the pump runs, i.e. if the load demand is low, it will run the pump at a low speed with a lower voltage, and vice-versa.

By putting permanent battery voltage to the pump via the pto socket, we run the risk of shortening the pump life, and the pump being directly supplied will no longer be controlled by the ECU, this means the ecu cannot turn off the pump if it needs to!

Not wanting to p*ss on anyones fire, but i think we do need to approach this with 'caution', especially bikes that are still in warranty?

Just the thoughts of a 'simple' tosser!

I think your thoughts would be valid if someone was to try and use this workaround on a permanent basis, but the idea is to have a back up plan should the controller fail miles from anywhere.

 

[Wapping]

Dear Mr Wapping,

Have you an update into your correspondence with BMW perchance

Ever hopefull

Total radio silence, I'm afraid, despite three chasers.

I think your thoughts would be valid if someone was to try and use this workaround on a permanent basis, but the idea is to have a back up plan should the controller fail miles from anywhere.

In one!

 

[Rong]

Not that this helps but found this posted on US website

Campaign ID#: 05V082000Mfg's Report Date: Feb 21, 2005
Component: Fuel system, gasoline: Delivery: Fuel pump.
Models Affected: '04 — '05 R1200GS
Potential Number Of Units Affected: 3,084

Summary: On certain motorcycles, the defect involves a water leak around the fuel pump that is integrated within the fuel tank. An O-ring seal attached to the pump's electronic housing does not meet specifications and water can bypass this seal and contact the pump electronics.

Consequence: Engine stalling, or a failure to start, could occur without prior warning. If stalling were to occur while the motorcycle was being driven, the rider would be unable to maintain speed or accelerate and a crash could occur without prior warning.

Remedy: Dealers will replace a sealing ring. If the fuel pump electronic unit is corroded, it will be replaced. The recall began May 9, 2005. Owners should contact BMW at 1 (800) 831-1117.

Notes: Customers can also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1 (888) DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

 

[wilbjr21]

Not that this helps but found this posted on US website

Campaign ID#: 05V082000Mfg's Report Date: Feb 21, 2005
Component: Fuel system, gasoline: Delivery: Fuel pump.
Models Affected: '04 — '05 R1200GS
Potential Number Of Units Affected: 3,084

Summary: On certain motorcycles, the defect involves a water leak around the fuel pump that is integrated within the fuel tank. An O-ring seal attached to the pump's electronic housing does not meet specifications and water can bypass this seal and contact the pump electronics.

Consequence: Engine stalling, or a failure to start, could occur without prior warning. If stalling were to occur while the motorcycle was being driven, the rider would be unable to maintain speed or accelerate and a crash could occur without prior warning.

Remedy: Dealers will replace a sealing ring. If the fuel pump electronic unit is corroded, it will be replaced. The recall began May 9, 2005. Owners should contact BMW at 1 (800) 831-1117.

Notes: Customers can also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1 (888) DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

Yes we've had this one a while back - but thanks for looking.

 

[Rong]

Oops, sorry, that'll teach me for not looking / searching through the threads!

 

[WindyChuffer]

Bypass wiring

Running direct to the battery is OK as a short term measure, but means the pump is continuously running unless you disconnect the cable.

My bike isn't going to be near a dealer for some time, so I've done a controller bypass to the existing wiring loom. OK, it's not neat but this is something the dealer is going to have to sort out under warranty when I'm back in the UK.

The connector running into the TOP of controller has three wires. Bare the right-hand and middle ones (and try not to slash the other in half as I did). Make an 'eye' in each of the cables to accept the splice.

As with Wapping's pics, cut the two cables with terminator block off the BOTTOM of the duff controller and splice
- the BLUE bottom cable into the BROWN top one
- the YELLOW bottom cable into the BLUE/GREEN top one.

Cover liberally with insulating tape, plug the terminator block into its position and start engine!

Tim

PS: PS: according to the AdvRider thread at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6898745 it's an overheating problem and the new part number (16147694378 ??) has an improved heat sink.

1. Polarity
Did you work out the polarity of the cables?

If I was to guess it would be as follows:
+ve brown
-ve green & blue stripe

+ve blue
-ve yellow

Note: The above is a *guess* !

2. Other workaround.
- Many of us have accessories fitted to the bike, some switched, some not.
- I have a centech fuse panel that is triggered live by a relay and the ignition. This gives provides spare switched power ports that can be used for almost anything. Centech fuse panel from Nippy Norman.
- So all you need to carry is a length of wire and some insulation tape, then chop the blue connector off the duff controlled and re-use it...
- You can make a fix in the field like Tim's fix, but this avoids having to butcher the wiring loom.

 

[Tim Cullis]

I didn't work out the polarity. I was following a thread on AdvRider that talked about terminal 1, terminal 2 etc. This was extremely confusing as the markers on the plastic blocks are so small it's almost impossible to see them.

I do have some experience with BMW wiring colour schemes from the car side and I know the colours are not always consistent which is why I took the above picture to show which actual wires to connect.

Tim

 

[Dainese Brave]

Obviously these are very helpful threads, with great work-around fixes

I was just wondering if anyone has any pics of where the fuel controller is actually found, and details of exactly what is needed to be done to get to it.

And also if a spare fuel pump controller is bought and carried as a spare in case of emergencies...how easy is that to fit?...and how?

As someone who isn't inept at maintenance, but not that mechanically minded, I thought it might be of great help to people like me, and many others.

Thanks for the great posts and pics, and any further information.

Steve.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Obviously these are very helpful threads, with great work-around fixes

I was just wondering if anyone has any pics of where the fuel controller is actually found, and details of exactly what is needed to be done to get to it.

And also if a spare fuel pump controller is bought and carried as a spare in case of emergencies...how easy is that to fit?...and how?

As someone who isn't inept at maintenance, but not that mechanically minded, I thought it might be of great help to people like me, and many others.

Thanks for the great posts and pics, and any further information.

Steve.

If you read and study the pages of posts on this thread, particularly the photos, you will find answers to your questions.

 

[Wapping]

I'm getting a couple of questions about which wire is positive.

I have checked again and it's the blue one.

Other people have commented that their socket has a blue wire and a yellow wire, like the one wires in Tim's picture. That may very well be true. The plug I had from Robin of this parish had a blue wire and a white wire. Or maybe it was just badly faded yellow? Or, as Tim said, maybe BuMW just changed the colour.

Either way it doesn't matter, blue is hot.

 

[Manzana]

Seen on YouTube: how to make your emergency bypass.

BMW R1200GS fuel pump controller bypass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7c_30Nn0BWE

 

[meismorph]

fuel pump relay

hi all

just had the dreaded relay failure, got the rac guy to chop it and bridge connection got me home no probs. anyway rang bmw and they want 70 of my hard earned pounds. being a tight git from yorkshire ive decided to try and fix me old one. so armed with a sharp knife,screwdriver and a pack of plasters i dug out the rubber sealent and priced out the circuit board (quite easy to get apart) any way because of the rubber sealent inside it leaves the capacitor behind (snapping off the terminals) rendering it useless. iam assuming as this is sat in the heatsink that its the failed part anyway.
so dug it out with screwdriver and recovered the info printed on it.ive now sourced x10 replacement capacitors ready to solder one back in. ive also extended the blue and white wires that were cut by the rac guy.also ive made a new rubber cover and will seal the unit back up once capacitor is fitted and tested. ive added a couple of pics and will post again with reults and more info: worse case senario = may not work and i,ll have to spend 70 quid


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