Fuel pump controller workaround

I'd be surprised if the capacitor failed, they're normally fairly reliable. The big power transistor would be the likely culprit for overheating, if anything was. Not so sure about what would happen with water ingress.

If the capacitor trick does not work, if you want to send me the board I will get the transistor off and check it, also I can try to work out a circuit diagram, if no one else has bothered to do so, I've not checked.

Can you read the numbers on the 8 pin ic and the black devices on the other side of the board?
 
My 06 1200 failed on 27th Mar, the day after I picked it up from the dealer... It is in Coopers Tun Wells waiting to be fixed...
Am I entitled to ask for the old bits back so I can make a work around fix as outlined here?

Also, how do I ensure that they fit the 'new and improved' one, which I think has a bigger O ring??
Should I then put silicon sealant around the edges or not?? Or is there a better solution...
TIA....
 
My 06 1200 failed on 27th Mar, the day after I picked it up from the dealer... It is in Coopers Tun Wells waiting to be fixed...
Am I entitled to ask for the old bits back so I can make a work around fix as outlined here?

Also, how do I ensure that they fit the 'new and improved' one, which I think has a bigger O ring??
Should I then put silicon sealant around the edges or not?? Or is there a better solution...
TIA....

You can ask for the bits but they are not obliged to give them to you.

Ask them to fit the 'new' one, I guess.

No idea about the gasket.

No idea about the sealant.
 
crook fuel pump controller

i have a o4 1200gs with 66000km on it and had no problem with it but here in aus we had a recall and they replaced the o ring under the electrical connector my be that could be causing the problem:)
 
i have a o4 1200gs with 66000km on it and had no problem with it but here in aus we had a recall and they replaced the o ring under the electrical connector my be that could be causing the problem:)

That's because your water goes down the hole anti-clockwise....
 
I'm getting a couple of questions about which wire is positive.

I have checked again and it's the blue one.

Other people have commented that their socket has a blue wire and a yellow wire, like the one wires in Tim's picture. That may very well be true. The plug I had from Robin of this parish had a blue wire and a white wire. Or maybe it was just badly faded yellow? Or, as Tim said, maybe BuMW just changed the colour.

Either way it doesn't matter, blue is hot.

Are you absolutely sure?

This is contrary to you post on the 1st page (post#13) that states Blue is -ve.....?

I have made a fly lead I'm just wanting to make sure I have it the correct way around......

:confused:
 
Are you absolutely sure?

This is contrary to you post on the 1st page (post#13) that states Blue is -ve.....?

I have made a fly lead I'm just wanting to make sure I have it the correct way around......

:confused:

For peace of mind I think I would get my meter out and check. If you cant get the tips of the probes onto the bits that conduct, use the finest pins or needles you can find and just stick them through the insulation on the wires then connect the meter probes to them. Be carefull not to short anything out - even though you should be OK as its canbus protected and not fuses.
 
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Are you absolutely sure?

This is contrary to you post on the 1st page (post#13) that states Blue is -ve.....?

I have made a fly lead I'm just wanting to make sure I have it the correct way around......

:confused:

read a couple of different calls on that , anyone got a definite on blue ??
 
YEP.......

Blue is -ve

White or yellow is +ve.

Just checked mine with the Fluke 0 value with ign on. Running, reading is 9.89v as above.
 
thanks for that, though i tried it both ways and the machine still wont fire , hopefully the new fpc will cure it, missing out on a sunny sunday...not too happy!:(:(:(
 
Sunny Sunday....

Are you taking the power straight from the battery or via an Accessory socket? as there is lots of conjuncture about the CAN-BUS kicking it out (cutting power to the Acc scoket) , if you do it via the Acc. socket. ?

just a thought if its not been covered...:confused:
 
Are you taking the power straight from the battery or via an Accessory socket? as there is lots of conjuncture about the CAN-BUS kicking it out (cutting power to the Acc scoket) , if you do it via the Acc. socket. ?

just a thought if its not been covered...:confused:

Already been stated that the Accessory socket won't handle the power the FPC requires..

I've simplified things...Ran a connector straight from the battery to a point next to the accessory socket below the seat.. that's what the optimate plugs in to...

Then used the same type of socket for the FPC work around, and the Compressor for tyre repairs, so all are interchangable , and are working straight off the battery :thumb
 
Already been stated that the Accessory socket won't handle the power the FPC requires..

I've simplified things...Ran a connector straight from the battery to a point next to the accessory socket below the seat.. that's what the optimate plugs in to...

Then used the same type of socket for the FPC work around, and the Compressor for tyre repairs, so all are interchangable , and are working straight off the battery :thumb

Same set up as mine..... :thumb

Its Contact23 thats havin' the probs...
 
Is the pump running at all?

When connected straight to the battery it should simply be permanently running.

If it isn't either the pump is US, or the fused lead you have used is blown or you have another problem / problems.

Have you tried unscrewing one of the injectors and gently pulling it out? Then turn the engine over on the starter button. Does fuel spit out: Pst....Pst....Pst?

It it does, the pump and injectors are working.

Put the injector back carefully and screw it back in gently. Do not be tempted to wipe or prod at the action end of the injector.
 
I posted this in vendors of inovations section but i will put it here as well in case the info might be usefull for any one making a bypass lead.
The Tyco number for the blue 2 pin is 828816-1 a search returned this item, only 60 pence and looks the same just in black from UK supplier as well http://www.automotivewiringsystems.c...1-828816-1.htm
 
Hi
is anyone making a FPC bypass lead in the UK if so how much I am going on the ride to Croatia 09 and thought it might be worth getting one.

Thanks
Eddie
 


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