Deleted account 191119001
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Lucky man................but do agree the wizardry should do the job, but something just aint right....
Got Shaft Rot.... again WTF
- Thread starter Warlord
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Lucky man................but do agree the wizardry should do the job, but something just aint right....
My bike has been in the local dealer since last Monday. After examining the bike they have confirmed that the final drive has seized due to rust and quoted me to removed clean, lube and return (Circa £500).
No mention of warranty. I contacted them and advised them that, in my opinion, this is a warranty issue. They replied that it is not covered.
I met with the service manager today who still stands by that decision even though it is clear to me that the rubber boot (which is not covered under warranty) has been damaged by interaction from inside and what I now suspect is that moisture has been in my FD for some time and caused the corrosion and subsequent seizure which has then caused the drive shaft to kick inside the casing and wear the rubber boot from the inside.
I reasoned that a rubber boot should last more than 2 years on an immaculatly maintained bike which has only been used for commuting and touring. I got the glazed look. I also pointed out that at no time have they mentioned why this damage occurred which is crucial to any claim. If they just told the Motorrad warranty company that my final drive is seized due to a hole in the boot then of course they will not be interested.
I came home and called BMW Warranty myself to start a complaint. I explained my suspicions above regarding the cause of the damage. They replied that they would look into the claim however if it was due to a component failure....... It would not be covered!! and I could consider taking it up directly with BMW?????
I'm at a loss for words and may well be at a loss of a significant amount of money too.
I have attached a photo of the tiny tear (in the rearmost 'crease' of the boot).
No mention of warranty. I contacted them and advised them that, in my opinion, this is a warranty issue. They replied that it is not covered.
I met with the service manager today who still stands by that decision even though it is clear to me that the rubber boot (which is not covered under warranty) has been damaged by interaction from inside and what I now suspect is that moisture has been in my FD for some time and caused the corrosion and subsequent seizure which has then caused the drive shaft to kick inside the casing and wear the rubber boot from the inside.
I reasoned that a rubber boot should last more than 2 years on an immaculatly maintained bike which has only been used for commuting and touring. I got the glazed look. I also pointed out that at no time have they mentioned why this damage occurred which is crucial to any claim. If they just told the Motorrad warranty company that my final drive is seized due to a hole in the boot then of course they will not be interested.
I came home and called BMW Warranty myself to start a complaint. I explained my suspicions above regarding the cause of the damage. They replied that they would look into the claim however if it was due to a component failure....... It would not be covered!! and I could consider taking it up directly with BMW?????
I'm at a loss for words and may well be at a loss of a significant amount of money too.
I have attached a photo of the tiny tear (in the rearmost 'crease' of the boot).
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Deleted account 191119001
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Surely the finaldrive should be under warranty, regardless of the gaitor...............
Not if caused by corrosion......
Deleted account 191119001
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Worth reading thread below, I think your dealer is not being fair.
https://www.r1200gs.info/forum/14-maintenance-modifications/32762-final-drive-corrosion-3.html
Deleted account 191119001
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I know what I will be doing this coming winter.
Well, take a deep breath and step back from the cliff edge for a moment.
The rust inside the swing arm, may or may not cause you any trouble during your time with the bike. It just depends how long you intend to keep it.
The final drive hasn't seized, the gearbox hasn't seized. It'll all carry on working as normal for a good while.
However, IF the rust becomes corrosive over time bad enough to eat away the shaft splines.... that's serious. How long will that take? Who knows, but it could be years....
£500 to remove the shaft, clean and lube is a piss-take, did you upset them that much
The parts only cost them £20
Spitfire
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Hi
Is there a safe way to remove/push back the rubber boot to inspect the drive and then put said boot back?
Id hate to remove the boot, find its all OK but then find the boot now leaks because I'd removed it
Is there a safe way to remove/push back the rubber boot to inspect the drive and then put said boot back?
Id hate to remove the boot, find its all OK but then find the boot now leaks because I'd removed it
BMW could be damned if you do, and damned if you don't here..... In my opinion it's a design flaw.
Damned if you do.....
A) If BMW follow procedure and grease all the parts so water can't get in.... the swing arm movement can cause a vacuum where the rubber boot gets sucked onto the rotating shaft knuckle... which then rubs a hole in it, and lets water in.
B) If BMW don't grease the rubber boot entirely... the vacuum issue is resolved as air can stabilize inside, but also water can get in.... but then can't get out. So the shaft and splines all go rusty inside, as it sits in a pool of rusty water.
Damned if you don't.....
A) If BMW don't follow procedure and don't apply any grease, the customer won't notice anything.... water will get in, water will get out. But it'll all go rusty and seize inside for absolute certainty in a wet environment.
BUT at least the customer won't notice anything until they ask BMW to open it all up and take a video
Damned if you do.....
A) If BMW follow procedure and grease all the parts so water can't get in.... the swing arm movement can cause a vacuum where the rubber boot gets sucked onto the rotating shaft knuckle... which then rubs a hole in it, and lets water in.
B) If BMW don't grease the rubber boot entirely... the vacuum issue is resolved as air can stabilize inside, but also water can get in.... but then can't get out. So the shaft and splines all go rusty inside, as it sits in a pool of rusty water.
Damned if you don't.....
A) If BMW don't follow procedure and don't apply any grease, the customer won't notice anything.... water will get in, water will get out. But it'll all go rusty and seize inside for absolute certainty in a wet environment.
BUT at least the customer won't notice anything until they ask BMW to open it all up and take a video
Deleted account 191119001
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Hi
Is there a safe way to remove/push back the rubber boot to inspect the drive and then put said boot back?
Id hate to remove the boot, find its all OK but then find the boot now leaks because I'd removed it
Probably better to wait until winter and do the full monty.
Well, take a deep breath and step back from the cliff edge for a moment.
The rust inside the swing arm, may or may not cause you any trouble during your time with the bike. It just depends how long you intend to keep it.
The final drive hasn't seized, the gearbox hasn't seized. It'll all carry on working as normal for a good while.
However, IF the rust becomes corrosive over time bad enough to eat away the shaft splines.... that's serious. How long will that take? Who knows, but it could be years....
£500 to remove the shaft, clean and lube is a piss-take, did you upset them that much
The parts only cost them £20
No they charge £95 an hour. The tech also said he had to remove the whole final drive, including the actual swing arm, to clean and grease which I suspect is not correct.
I have now spoken to Motorrad UK who suggest I go back to the dealer and ask them to request a goodwill gesture from BMW. I have spoken to someone at the dealer and they are going to discuss this with the Service manager.
Well that's my whole morning wasted. Time to go to work soon.
Hi
Is there a safe way to remove/push back the rubber boot to inspect the drive and then put said boot back?
Id hate to remove the boot, find its all OK but then find the boot now leaks because I'd removed it
In my opinion, no. There won't be enough room to take a good look around unless you can drop the final drive housing fully back.
You can't drop the final drive housing fully back if the shaft has rusted to the final drive unit. In fact, you run a risk of pulling the shaft off the gearbox end. Starting your day of woe.
If you make the time, be prepared to pull the whole lot out for inspection. At least that way, you can put it all back properly and grease it all up.
Otherwise, I'd recommend you just leave it all alone.....
You don't have to remove the swing arm, what a load of tosh they're spewing....
Pity you don't live closer to me, I'd be tempted to call you over to my place !!
Can you explain how its done so that I can teach the trained Motorrad technician please........
If I'd been there, I wouldn't have been able to resist !!
Having done it myself now, they're making a mountain out of a mole hill...
At the end of the day, it's money, money, money.....
Seriously though Warlord. Is it just a case of disconnecting the drive shaft behind the first rubber gaiter near the gearbox and pulling all through? Because the technician thinks he has to take the back end off the bike!!
Yes. It just pulls straight off.
Getting it back on is the tricky part. It can be done and is fiddly due to the swing arm being not level with the gearbox splines.
You could unbolt the bottom rear suspension shock to allow free movement of the swing arm so he can get it level but that's just one bolt to make his life easier.
But in no way do you need to remove the swing arm
So not 5 hours labour then.............
I won't be buying warranty cover ever again!
I won't be buying warranty cover ever again!
Absolutely not.
- Remove rear wheel (10 mins)
- Drop Final Drive Fluid (5 mins)
- Unbolt rear brake caliper and remove speed sensor (5 mins)
- Unbolt Torque Arm (5 mins)
- Unbolt Final Drive hinge and remove final drive and shaft complete (10 mins)
- Fuck off for a tea break and check Tinder Messages (Balance in time allowance)
- Remove shaft from final drive (if rusted 30 mins)
- Clean all appropriate parts (20 mins)
- Grease all appropriate parts (20 mins)
- Refit shaft (20 mins)
- Refit final drive and fluid (20 mins)
- Refit brake caliper, speed sensor, torque arm parts (10 mins)
- Refit rear wheel (10 mins)
There's my estimate.... 2 Hours 45 minutes (and that's being VERY generous for a trained professional)
Many thanks.
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